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    #16
    Originally posted by e30trooper View Post
    pic of eng pls. ALl you need to show is a pic and you can tell by the wiring
    He can also check the tach. If it hasn't been changed the seta goes to 5.5k. The regular eta goes to 4.5k. Another way to tell is the icv and it's location. The i and seta have it on the drivers side of the car, the eta has it on the passenger side. The eta one also has a screw in it that is adjustable.;)
    Originally posted by scabzzzz
    Wow. This thread is just full of r3v's elite isnt it? From the college virgin to the racist with an ugly girlfriend to teh mad tyte dorifto guy.. Jeez.

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      #17
      Originally posted by jr325es View Post
      He can also check the tach. If it hasn't been changed the seta goes to 5.5k. The regular eta goes to 4.5k. Another way to tell is the icv and it's location. The i and seta have it on the drivers side of the car, the eta has it on the passenger side. The eta one also has a screw in it that is adjustable.;)
      Yea ok. Like I said a pic of the engine bay and we can tell. Dont stand on cluster pic K , I have a 87 eta and when I bought it , it had a SETA cluster and I was like WOW i readline at 6200 NO WAY! nope someone swaped it and I got a seta coding chip and now I redline 5200. Easy way.. Production date. Mine a 11/86 but sold in 87 so its a reg eta.

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        #18
        Originally posted by jr325es View Post
        I know for the seta the transmission has a different shift linkage to the i, and it doesnt use the plate like the regular e. I ripped my shift linkage and put in an i one at it moved my shifter foward like if it had a z3 shifter, they are also different part numbers.
        Super Eta and i use same shift linkage.
        BimmerHeads
        Classic BMW Specialists
        Santa Clarita, CA

        www.BimmerHeads.com

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          #19
          Originally posted by MR 325 View Post
          Super Eta and i use same shift linkage.
          That's what i thought, but when i ordered a regular i linkage, it came out to be like half an inch longer. I went on realoem and found out they have different part numbers.


          Here's the thread with the part numbers. Post #14. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=148663 And by shift linkage I meant selector rod part. Sorry shoulda been more precise. (its 4am here I'm half asleep :) ).
          Last edited by jr325es; 03-18-2010, 01:01 AM. Reason: added link
          Originally posted by scabzzzz
          Wow. This thread is just full of r3v's elite isnt it? From the college virgin to the racist with an ugly girlfriend to teh mad tyte dorifto guy.. Jeez.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by e30trooper View Post
            Yea ok. Like I said a pic of the engine bay and we can tell. Dont stand on cluster pic K , I have a 87 eta and when I bought it , it had a SETA cluster and I was like WOW i readline at 6200 NO WAY! nope someone swaped it and I got a seta coding chip and now I redline 5200. Easy way.. Production date. Mine a 11/86 but sold in 87 so its a reg eta.
            That's why I said unless it has been changed, and also told him to just look at the icv. He can also look at the coolant reservoir, if it is also in the driver's side opossed to the passenger (eta). I'm just giving the guy a couple options he can rely on. These are just the easiest quickest way to find out while just glancing at it.
            Originally posted by scabzzzz
            Wow. This thread is just full of r3v's elite isnt it? From the college virgin to the racist with an ugly girlfriend to teh mad tyte dorifto guy.. Jeez.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by jr325es View Post
              I thought this set up is really called a 2.7i. I thought the seta stroker setup is when you install the seta pistons in the 2.5i block to bump (stroke) it up to 2.7l, without actually boring the block. I might have the names backwards though.

              But whatever it is many have done this. All you need is from the head up of the i, and the ecu. The seta head does a lesser cam and single valve springs (reason why it cant handle high rpms). It also has smaller ports in the intake side, so if I were you I would look for another i head instead of using the seta one and just changing over the springs and cams.
              changing pistons doesn't have anything to do with stroke

              the seta has the EXACT same head ports, because the head is exactly the same casting!

              stop posting useless information, you're confusing people who might not know better.
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

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                #22
                id did the head swap. just an fyi, its not really a stroker, its just an seta with headwork. think about it: its the same head, but with different valve springs, bigger intake manifold a hotter cam, and bigger injectors. if you did that to 1.8L m10, its still a 1.8lm10 but faster.

                1) any 85-87 325 is M1.1. if you took an 054 ecu(seta) and the 173(I) they ahve the same three row pin thing vs the two rows of the M1.1 ecu.

                2)the seta was the first and only eta to be M1.3. hence the deletion of the cold start injector and all of those reference sensors on the trans. the seta also uses a CPS instead of the M1.1 crank reference sensor or whatever it used.

                3) the wiring harnesses are exactly the same between the seta and any 88+325. thats why you can swap ecu's willy nilly.

                4)the seta 885 head is the same as an 885 is head except for the cam, and the valve springs. the seta has single valve springs and the e cam.

                i started with an 88 325is, and that motor blew(snapped rocker+hydrolock @ 5500 rpm= snapped rod) so i already had the M1.3 173 DME in my car. i took the head off of that motor, had it maganafluxed and rebuilt. slapped onto a 140k seta bottom end.

                it was as simple as changing a head gasket.

                and change all the rubber seals on the head. you dont wanna have to do it when the ehad in on the car as you will be cramped for space.


                the 2.7i does not rev as excitedly as the m20b25 because of the extra weight on the crank, but you will see a nice bump in lower and midrange torque. the hp stays the same for the most part unless you run a cam to move some of that torque up the powerband.
                My feedback:
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=186328

                http://e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74911

                Instagram:
                @gears_n_glory

                @functionmotorsports

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                  #23
                  great, more bad information!

                  Originally posted by bataangpinoy View Post
                  id did the head swap. just an fyi, its not really a stroker, its just an seta with headwork. think about it: its the same head, but with different valve springs, bigger intake manifold a hotter cam, and bigger injectors. if you did that to 1.8L m10, its still a 1.8lm10 but faster.

                  1) any 85-87 325 is M1.1. if you took an 054 ecu(seta) and the 173(I) they ahve the same three row pin thing vs the two rows of the M1.1 ecu.
                  NO, the regular Eta has a motronic 1.0 ECU (the 054), which has a 35 pin connector. the seta (and all US 325i's) have Motronic 1.1/1.3 which is a 55 pin connector. They share basically nothing in common.

                  2)the seta was the first and only eta to be M1.3. hence the deletion of the cold start injector and all of those reference sensors on the trans. the seta also uses a CPS instead of the M1.1 crank reference sensor or whatever it used.
                  the seta was Motronic 1.1. Motronic 1.3 came for the 1989 model year. etas are motronic 1.0!


                  3) the wiring harnesses are exactly the same between the seta and any 88+325. thats why you can swap ecu's willy nilly.

                  4)the seta 885 head is the same as an 885 is head except for the cam, and the valve springs. the seta has single valve springs and the e cam.

                  i started with an 88 325is, and that motor blew(snapped rocker+hydrolock @ 5500 rpm= snapped rod) so i already had the M1.3 173 DME in my car. i took the head off of that motor, had it maganafluxed and rebuilt. slapped onto a 140k seta bottom end.

                  it was as simple as changing a head gasket.

                  and change all the rubber seals on the head. you dont wanna have to do it when the ehad in on the car as you will be cramped for space.
                  They also don't have all 7 cam bearing oil holes drilled. But that's easy to deal with. Also the seta has a different cam from the eta.

                  the 2.7i does not rev as excitedly as the m20b25 because of the extra weight on the crank, but you will see a nice bump in lower and midrange torque. the hp stays the same for the most part unless you run a cam to move some of that torque up the powerband.
                  the crank weighs nearly the same, less than 1 lb difference. You aren't going to notice that. The reason it revs slower is probably because of the low rod ratio and lower comrpession.

                  And cam's don't just move torque around. They increase overall airflow, which can increase torque everywhere (if it's chosen properly).
                  Build thread

                  Bimmerlabs

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                    #24
                    Sorry to burst your bubble man but unless your production date is 9/87+ I'm pretty sure it's not a seta. I have a seta and have done a lot of research on them. According to realoem.com 9/87 is when all the part numbers change over from eta. Easy way to tell is just by looking at the cosmetic things on the car...like larger tails, late model valance, or ellipsoids.

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                      #25
                      then why did the BMW recycler say for my seta motor:

                      ECU: 054 M1.3

                      my post above was merely how it was explained to me. sorry for listening to bad advice....

                      and i know that cams increase airflow(thats why they're measured in degrees right) but when i explan why my car sounds like its broken, i tell the kids its the cam and they look at me funny. then i say it messes with your powerband and moves air differently. then they are like ohhh.

                      all if it is bad info, someone make sticky of whats going on please. i dont like passing bad info myself, and feel like an asshat now.
                      My feedback:
                      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=186328

                      http://e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74911

                      Instagram:
                      @gears_n_glory

                      @functionmotorsports

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                        #26
                        I'm not trying to post useless information. I'm trying to learn about the swap myself. That is what I read in a another thread. They were saying that the manifolds are different, and that the seta has smaller ports on intake side.

                        I'm sorry I'm not trying to sound like a smart ass or to get anyone confused or riled up. So for the setup all you need exchange from the I to the seta is from the intake manifold up, injectors, cam, valve springs, and the ecu?
                        Originally posted by scabzzzz
                        Wow. This thread is just full of r3v's elite isnt it? From the college virgin to the racist with an ugly girlfriend to teh mad tyte dorifto guy.. Jeez.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by bataangpinoy View Post
                          then why did the BMW recycler say for my seta motor:

                          ECU: 054 M1.3

                          my post above was merely how it was explained to me. sorry for listening to bad advice....
                          The 154 ECU is what I pulled from my car, which was original.

                          Originally posted by jr325es View Post
                          I'm not trying to post useless information. I'm trying to learn about the swap myself. That is what I read in a another thread. They were saying that the manifolds are different, and that the seta has smaller ports on intake side.

                          I'm sorry I'm not trying to sound like a smart ass or to get anyone confused or riled up. So for the setup all you need exchange from the I to the seta is from the intake manifold up, injectors, cam, valve springs, and the ecu?
                          You need the "i" cast 885 head, "i" intake, "i" AFM, "i" injectors, "i" Throttle Body, and 173 ECU. That's pretty much it off the top of my head.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by jr325es View Post
                            He can also check the tach. If it hasn't been changed the seta goes to 5.5k. The regular eta goes to 4.5k. Another way to tell is the icv and it's location. The i and seta have it on the drivers side of the car, the eta has it on the passenger side. The eta one also has a screw in it that is adjustable.;)
                            The tach goes to 5.5k

                            Originally posted by GOOBER View Post
                            Sorry to burst your bubble man but unless your production date is 9/87+ I'm pretty sure it's not a seta. I have a seta and have done a lot of research on them. According to realoem.com 9/87 is when all the part numbers change over from eta. Easy way to tell is just by looking at the cosmetic things on the car...like larger tails, late model valance, or ellipsoids.
                            the car has large tails, late model valence, and ellipsoids, and like i said the intake manifold is clearly different from my '86 eta

                            regarding the transmission stuff, the 5spd i would be using is already in the seta and attached to the motor, my plan was to pull them out attached and put them in the convertible attached, not separating them... i am hoping there wont be any issues with this...

                            so regarding the cylinder head, i will just use the cam and springs from the original "i" cylinder head, obviously i wont have to do anything with the wiring harness or ecu, and i will obviously swap the intake manifold, throttle body, injectors, afm, etc from the orginial "i" motor onto the seta

                            BavAuto ~ Bilstein ~ BBS ~ Scorpion ~ MarkD ~ Prolumen

                            Have you hugged a corner today?

                            '89 335iC (M30) - summer
                            '17 Mazda3 - winter

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                              #29
                              Oh god this thread is confusing. I'm planning on doing this conversion to my Seta this summer, I guess I'll just follow what nando says...

                              >> 1988 3.1 ITB E30 /// 2002 E46 M3 6MT / 2008 335xi 6MT / 1991 S38B36 E30 (sold)

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                                #30
                                These threads always turn into the most confusing threads ever. Here's what I got though, and I will post the for sale ad so yall can say what is and isn't on the car for certain. I am pretty sure it is all right except for maybe the ECU as it doesn't rev past 5500.


                                Motor:
                                88 325e
                                M30 injectors
                                M30 AFM
                                3.0 bar FPR
                                "i" head swap
                                K&N Filter

                                Head swap:
                                Re-manufactured "i" head
                                "i" intake manifold
                                "i" Throttle body
                                173 ECU
                                "i" cluster
                                "We're not here for a long time, we're here for a good time"-Colin McCrae

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