Required E30 tools

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  • imdashiz
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  • accident
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    i love my electric impact gun. i took apart an entire e30 suspension and put it back together on one charge.

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  • browntown
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    30mm rear and 36mm front. To actually remove the hub in the rear you'll at the minimum need a slide hammer. Mine were in there so good, that I just paid a shop to press out and press in new ones. Up front you can just use a 2 or 3 jaw gear puller to remove the hub. In my experience impact "spindle sockets" are too thick, and I have resorted to using 12pt 30mm and 36mm chrome sockets from sears. Wear a good face mask if using an impact on chrome sockets though. None have exploded on me yet, but they are definitely looking abused.

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  • KennyT
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    Do I need the 30mm or 36 for pulling the rear axles?

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  • lostbeachbum
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    get a 8,10,12,13,15,17 set of sockets, deep sockets, and ratchet wrenches, and I think you could take nearly the whole car apart

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  • StereoInstaller1
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    You will wish you had invented them...they are a HUGE help.

    What screw gun do you have? I just switched over to the Milwaukee M12 system. Very decent stuff IMO.

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  • KennyT
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    I have a decent set, I've been using them for a couple years. I'll look into a skewdriver.

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  • StereoInstaller1
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    Originally posted by KennyT
    Already have the electrical kit (two years in electrical engineering), along with most of what has been mentioned. I'm looking for the various oddball tools, like what pawi mentioned.

    pawi - What do I need the 32mm wrench and 12mm socket for?
    If you are the typical EE, you have shit crimpers. Don't fuck around, get ChannelLock, they are the best, better than SnapOn..

    One really useful little oddball toy is called the Skewdriver. If your screw gun is smaller, you can use the standard duty...but it will cut the hassle of a heater core install in half.

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  • mike87
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    lots and LOTS of pb blaster. assuming there will be rust, which there likely will be :D

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  • McGyver
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    bitch bar and 36mm socket for wheel bearings.

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  • bimmerpirate
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    5lb deadblow hammer is always good.

    a big set of slip-jaw pliers are good for lots of things too.

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  • KennyT
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    Will a 5lb do? Or do I need a 10lb sledge?

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  • sharky
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    Bfh

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  • KennyT
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    Tools are all craftsman or crescent, only thing harbor freight is the engine hoist.

    The parts car is almost torn down, just left to the engine, rear section of driveshaft, diff, and then suspension/steering.

    I'm going to need the 180* pick for the bitch clip.

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  • browntown
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    30mm and 36mm thin wall sockets for axle nuts. Female torx sockets for transmission bolts. Hex metric sockets for tranny and diff drain plugs. Long 8mm hex socket for axle flange bolts. 11mm flare wrench for brake lines. Gearwrench's in at least 10, 13, 17, and 19mm. The 32mm wrench is for the fan clutch, but I've had success using a big adjustable wrench. I'd start thinking about air tools if you think you'll be doing much suspension work too. I think the 22mm socket they're talking about is for the front control arm - there are a few different methods for that.
    Other than that, a good selection of short and deep metric sockets with extensions / wobbles/ universals in 1/4 and 3/8 drive should do most things. You'd be surprised how much of the car you can tear down with a 13 and 17mm wrench
    Don't buy harbor freight.

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