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Hot Tank / Magnuflux / Valve doing, etc. I need help

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    Hot Tank / Magnuflux / Valve doing, etc. I need help

    Before I go to the machinist and look like a total newb with a good credit rating, I have some questions about what they can or can't do and some of the cost implications. Being a m90 it spins pretty fast to begin with, and I'll likely megasquirt it or war chip it to r3v even higher. ARP studs and cometic mls headgasket are in the works.

    I have my m90 tore down of everything but the head, block, and all the moving internal parts. Sadly it probably ran hot at some point in the last 30yrs/160000 miles as the entire inside of the engine is a deep black color. No immediate evidence of a failure though, and I had it running well just before pulling it.

    At the minimum I'll take the head off and look for cracks. Can it be hot tanked with all the valves and rockers installed, or does it have to come all apart first? What should I have them do?

    From the sounds of it, rocker breakage is common enough to throw a new set of rockers on, probably the trick rocker locks, and get the whole three angle valve grind and a skim of the mating surface. Sounds expensive though. Just check the valve guides and call it good?

    As for the bottom end, I just assume leave it alone since people say that m30 family bottom ends are good forever. But can it be magnafluxed for cracks and hot tanked to clean for paint with the rotating assembly installed?? Besides visual scoring on the cylinder walls or obvious piston damage, what would prompt tearing the bottom end apart?

    Are you sick of reading yet?

    #2
    if you want to have your head and block put in a hot tank youll need to strip them.
    the chemicals used in hot tanks are pretty strong. it would not be a good idea to let the main bearings get soaked in that stuff. imo
    :borg:

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      #3
      no you can't.
      if you want to have things mag'ed they need to be in pieces

      hot tanking will ruin the seals (valve guide ETC) so no you need it in pieces.

      in short if you are going that far, you are doing a rebuild
      seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen


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        #4
        Damn, well I suppose the rarity of the engine justifies at least a top end rebuild. I guess I'll cross my fingers, assume the bottom end is as bulletproof as people say, and just naval jelly the outside of the block and paint it myself.

        If I do a bottom end rebuild, what can I reuse? I'm assuming the pistons, rods and crank. And then I would just use new rings, wrist pins, bearings and bolts. Right? That doesn't sound too painful in the pocketbook.

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          #5
          What's M90?

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            #6
            Originally posted by alex View Post
            What's M90?
            ??

            Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
            Ig:ryno_pzk
            I like the tuna here.
            Originally posted by lambo
            Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

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              #7
              early euro motor that was a 3.5 incarnation of the m30. Oversquare bores, revhappy torque monster. Supposedly the same bottom end that is on the m5 and m6 of that era but with a single cam. Rare, and to make mine even rarer it has motronic 1.0 instead of most of them that are l-jetronic.

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                #8
                Is this the one out of that 6'er that was for sale in Oregon?

                '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

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                  #9
                  yup, tore out the motor, seats and suspension, junked the car last week. too much rust to keep.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by browntown View Post
                    Damn, well I suppose the rarity of the engine justifies at least a top end rebuild. I guess I'll cross my fingers, assume the bottom end is as bulletproof as people say, and just naval jelly the outside of the block and paint it myself.

                    If I do a bottom end rebuild, what can I reuse? I'm assuming the pistons, rods and crank. And then I would just use new rings, wrist pins, bearings and bolts. Right? That doesn't sound too painful in the pocketbook.
                    you can prob reuse the wrist pins (i double you can get them new without pistons anyways.)

                    if you take it down that far, get everything balanced (rods, crank, pistons, flywheel pressure plate front crank pulley if it is a heavy one) you have NO IDEA what it is like to have a nicely balanced to zero motor. esp with a rev happy one!

                    you might look into redoing the freezr plugs while you have it down if they are prone to leak or rusty.

                    i like to do a new oil pump if it is in the budget or at least spec it to make sure it is not worn.
                    seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen


                    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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