Power Steering Delete

[Jean]

So, that Silence's delete plate, does it give you a somewhere in between the oem ps setup and one w/o belt? Or is it SAME as not running the belt?

[unrlmth]

So, that Silence's delete plate, does it give you a somewhere in between the oem ps setup and one w/o belt? Or is it SAME as not running the belt?

Theres a difference between running without belt and with the pump and everything removed. It's not huge, but definitely noticeable.

[Jaxx_]

How does that increase effort? I was under the impression that the rack needed fluid to stay lubricated but, it doesn't need to ever be drained, just topped off.

So, that Silence's delete plate, does it give you a somewhere in between the oem ps setup and one w/o belt? Or is it SAME as not running the belt?

the way power steering works is that it forces fluid down the side that you're trying to steer away from. You also, since the other side is filled with fluid, force fluid out of the side your steering towards.

now what do you think is easier... not forcing fluid at all, or forcing fluid through your "loop" kit?

If you want to scale things in terms of effort:

functioning powersteering
powersteering capped off without fluid
powersteering looped with fluid
powertseering with belt off

[F.T.W]

I'm getting ready to throw a re-man rack in my car with one of silences loop kits this weekend. From the sounds of it it's a pretty straight forward deal. My biggest quesiton is how do you get the fluid into the looped rack?

[iamsam]

ok ladies.

You don't need any of this "looping" crap. Its all hype, there is no reason to have power steering fluid in your rack at all if you are not using the power part of the power steering.

I have run for a long time with no fluid in my steering rack, and I just plugged off the banjo bolt holes by sliding tubing over the banjo bolts and screwing them back in. After many months and even a track day, my steering is fine.

Check out a post i made on it here, with pics: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...08&postcount=1

[F.T.W]

Yeah I dunno, I already bought the loop so it's too late. Maybe I'll try it both ways and report back.

[silence]

The reason you need a delete that actually loops the two banjo bolts is, not only to let any residual fluid pass from one side of the rack to the other, but also to let the air inside flow freely from one side to the other. With out this pass through, you will be compressing the air inside of your rack on each side when you turn the wheel, causing it to be harder to steer, and also eventually blowing out the seals.

you can grab one of my deletes for $35 here psdeletes

[gearheadE30]

fwiw my rack is not full of fluid, but I also didn't really try that hard to drain it. I don't know about anyone else's experience, but Silence's delete made my steering significantly lighter. It actually took a little while to get used to it.

Jaxx, I see what you are saying, but if you just cap the rack off, you create pressure in the rack when you turn, either fluid pressure or air pressure. I ran mine like this, using the pipe trick, for a little while, and it was a little better than with no belt off, but for me at least, the looped plate made the steering even lighter. Steering feel itself didn't change noticeably between the various non-ps setups, although with just the belt off, you couldn't tell quite as easily when the tires were right on the limit.

I don't know if it makes any difference at all, but I'm using an e36 rack.

[TexasTerp]

Reading everyone's arguments, it sounds like the best setup is to remove all the power steering. drain the rack to the best of your abilities and install either Silence's delete plate or reinstall the banjo bolts as is to allow for airflow and residual fluid to pass through.

From a purely scientific standpoint, having a passthrough such as the delete point makes the most sense since blocking those airways will result in significant air pressure build up under tight, stressed turning which would potentially blow the seals.

I would assume a rack should have a bit of residual fluid left in it to keep the rack lubricated enough so that it doesn't freeze.

[HarryPotter]

I bought a power steering belt to put on for xmas, havent put it back on yet, I hate not having ps. Especially with my mini ass Grant GT wheel. That things about half the size of a regular e30 wheel.

[4DR_Lou]

no power steering sucks. i miss it, i just bought an e36 rack, can't wait to put it on. i drove without ps for 6 months, and it sucks.
just remove belt, and let it drain itself. lol

[silence]

no power steering sucks. i miss it, i just bought an e36 rack, can't wait to put it on. i drove without ps for 6 months, and it sucks.
just remove belt, and let it drain itself. lol

4DR_Lou,
Without properly draining the system, you have even more resistance, because you are having to push the fluid from one side of the rack to the other... through the hoses.

I challenge you to buy one of my deletes for your e36 rack, and try it out for a week, if you dont like it, send it back for a full refund, no questions asked...

[Jaxx_]

Jaxx, I see what you are saying, but if you just cap the rack off, you create pressure in the rack when you turn, either fluid pressure or air pressure. I ran mine like this, using the pipe trick, for a little while, and it was a little better than with no belt off, but for me at least, the looped plate made the steering even lighter. Steering feel itself didn't change noticeably between the various non-ps setups, although with just the belt off, you couldn't tell quite as easily when the tires were right on the limit.

Reading everyone's arguments, it sounds like the best setup is to remove all the power steering. drain the rack to the best of your abilities and install either Silence's delete plate or reinstall the banjo bolts as is to allow for airflow and residual fluid to pass through.

From a purely scientific standpoint, having a passthrough such as the delete point makes the most sense since blocking those airways will result in significant air pressure build up under tight, stressed turning which would potentially blow the seals.

I would assume a rack should have a bit of residual fluid left in it to keep the rack lubricated enough so that it doesn't freeze.

the rack is not lubricated from the hydraulic fluid.

I have a hard time believing that air being compressed is going to be worse than the amount of pressure that a hydraulic fluid produces being pumped into the steering rack. Get real guys. 50psi fluid vs hand-forced squishy air?

No offense Silence, but when anyone selling a product, I have to take everything they say with a grain of salt. In this case, I think the kits you are selling are useless. If you want to do a capped-off test with hoses and check force with a force gauge, and then your loop kit, I would encourage that to prove me wrong. :up:

[HarryPotter]

That's pretty spot on I'd say. If you are having trouble turning the wheel with your big ass stock e30 bus wheel with just the belt removed than you need to start working out. I am by no means big, but I can turn my grant GT wheel with one hand if the need arises, in a parking lot...

[lolcantturn]

That's pretty spot on I'd say. If you are having trouble turning the wheel with your big ass stock e30 bus wheel with just the belt removed than you need to start working out. I am by no means big, but I can turn my grant GT wheel with one hand if the need arises, in a parking lot...

This. I remember when I first drove my E30 when i first got it it had no PS and I was bloody awful at parallel parking. Now I can use one hand to get in an out. Not a big deal really.