TB discovered to be almost one tooth off perfect.

[txtorquemade]

3 weeks ago...

Just did my TB/WP/tensioner/cam seal, etc. Having a problem now on start up with it sounding bound up. Rotational noise. Just dosen't sound right.

Being as the radiator puked out while I was bleeding coolant back into the engine, listening to cacaphony of noise the engine was now making, I am going to re-adjust the tensioner bolt and all accessory belts, etc. Check the tension on WP belt as well.

But question is I suppose, would it be best to just go all the way back in and check timing marks, cam nut torque and torque on the funky bolt? Seems things just arent lined up right, somehow. I should mention I was Seafoaming the oil case when I parked the car. I plan on running car up to temp, draining and doing a oil and filter change.


12-27-10

So. Plan is:

-Check all belt tension, except try to not have to take covers off T belt.
-Install new radiator. New orings in tranny lines
-New coolant switch on radiator. I think thats the fan switch for the elect -fan, yes?
-All the belts, hoses, VCG etc are all new. All intake hoses and gaskets are new as well.
- Drain seafoam and oil change.

Assess and figure out if I have things right.

Plan B M50 swap in near future.

Any insights or suggestions?

EDIT: I just pulled the belts and aligning timing marks. Seems its almost 1 full tooth off perfect.

So.. pull belt and advance? or ....any short cuts. Im working alone.

Thanks!!!

[woodisgood]

I just did this and had the same problem, it seems like it was hard to get the tension on the intake side of the belt so that when I put tension on the exhaust manifold side it made it one tooth off.

You can take the top half of the timing belt off by just removing the top cover and water pump pulley.

What I did was roll the timing mark on the cam sprocket one tooth down (clockwise from front of engine) to account for the slack when I tightened the tensioner. This worked for me and everything lined up perfectly after buttoning up.

I am sure this is the noob dumbass way to do it but that is what I did and it worked.

Good luck!

[stumble_t]

Compress the tensioner all the way and tighten the bolt to keep it compressed while you fit the belt.
Only put the belt halfway in, don't push the belt all the way on the sprocket toward the engine. Follow the numerical order and it will go on fine, albeit tight.

[nando]

you have to pull the belt to move it one tooth, but don't sweat it. follow these guy's instructions to get it lined back up correctly.

[payney8]

Follow that ^^^. Also what i do is get a white paint pen and mark the position of the belt on all the pulleys before you slide it on and put tension on. Then wind the engine 2 complete revolutions and see if your marks line back up on ur cam and your crank pulley. First time i did my belt it went on piece of piss but then i rolled it over and the cam was off 1 tooth.

[2slowe30]

please post a video of it

[txtorquemade]

I'd already post up pics if I had a cam working, so no vid either.

Ok. Im definately one tooth off. Me thinks.

Question. With the timing covers OFF> the notch on the inside of the timing cover is the mark for the crank mark? Yes. If I line that up, then pull the belt and align the cam mark...pop the belt back on and good?

Im on hold for an answer to this...at 613pm.

Thanks men

[txtorquemade]

you have to pull the belt to move it one tooth, but don't sweat it. follow these guy's instructions to get it lined back up correctly.

Doing this. Will report back in awhile.

[txtorquemade]

Ok, just to verify.

With the timing covers off, the cam mark is dead solid on it. The crank is 1.3mm past the mark, that being the V notch in the lower timing inside case (or so it appears).

Is that one tooth, or two maybe?

Thanks again. Yeah, this is my 1st time to do this. Sorry!

[Rigmaster]

sounds like 1 or 2 teeth off, impossible to say without seeing it in person.

You definitely need to manually rotate the engine at least 2 or 3 times to confirm that the marks are dead on before you button it all back up.


When it's right, the marks hit perfectly.



EDIT: use a 22mm ratchet or box end wrench on the crank nut to rotate the engine clockwise (when standing at the front of the car looking towards the back).

[woodisgood]

One tooth off on the crank eqauls more than one tooth on the cam. You should line up crank to the mark and work from there.

[txtorquemade]

One tooth off on the crank eqauls more than one tooth on the cam. You should line up crank to the mark and work from there.

That is what I have done. But had to loosen the tensioner to remove belt. Man, sucker is hard to get on/off for sure.

[txtorquemade]

12-27-10 @ 740pm

Timing mark aligned on the crank and on the cam. Perfect. But being as I had to remove the tensioner to get the damn belt off, Im putting it back on and belt is questionable again, although marks havent changed. Still perfect.

Ok.. whats the damn trick to getting the belt on and tensioned properly, without messing up the timing mark alignment???

Man, if my Glock was closer Id be selling a rolling shell tomorrow!!!

[Bimmerista]

Its not all bad Mark. I'm dealing with a non-running e30 right now too. :(

[woodisgood]

loosen tensioner bolt, turn engine two revs and check again. If all is well, tighten tensioner and done. If not......