OEM eccentric RTAB's?

[schtozo]

Ok i want to change my rear subframe and rtabs and saw on realoem two choices for the rtabs either regular or eccentric ones. Are the eccentric easy to deal with? I mean how much camber do they correct? And does insalation involve any major issues? Is it easy fr the person who will align the car later to play with them or are they a one time install and no going back?

Dunno if you understand my questions ley me know...
Easier: buy regular or eccentric RTAB's?

[LJ851]

They are a one time deal and not a very big change. They are just a stock bushing with the inner steel sleeve offset in the rubber.After you remove your RTABs you will understand why they are not adjustable post install !I think they give you like 1/2 a degree change max. You would need to mark your trailing arms as they sit at ride height so you could install them for max camber and toe change. make sense ? regular bushings are foolproof-ish so they would be easier.

[nrubenstein]

The way you install the eccentrics is you START with good normal RTABs and throw the car on an alignment rack. Afterwards, you calculate an approximate change and install them. You can also use them to take out a little bit of camber if you know you are low.

All in all, just go with the standard ones.

[LJ851]

I was going on the assumption that everyone here is low enough that max camber and toe removal will still not be enough...

[CorvallisBMW]

If you're more than 0.5* off your desired camber or toe setting in the rear, these will not be enough to correct your problem. You'll need a weld-on adjustment kit such as the one Ireland Engineering sells, paired with OEM rubber bushings.

[schtozo]

Yeah i thought the same thing, they are not worth it. Im at -3.20 rears with billy sport / IE3's.i guess ill go with the original one s and save $10 haha

[nando]

by far the simplest solution is to use shorter subframe bushings. AKG sells some that raise the subframe 12mm up into the car - that effectively takes out 1/2 degree out the the car.

eccentric bushings should only be used if class rules require OEM parts, the problem is they don't hold adjustment very well and they change toe and camber at the same time, in addition to being restricted in their range of adjustment.

[mikeedler]

I completely disagree. if it is only 10 dollars more and you are doing them anyway, why wouldnt you atleast help it a bit. plus your excessive camber also comes from worn out bushings too.

[325ix]

^you make a very good point. That in combination wiht Nando's suggestion should put you at least decently close to a good setting.

[ZekeTheSneak]

Akgmotorsports.com sells adjustable ones. I do not know to what extent but another possibility.

[schtozo]

by far the simplest solution is to use shorter subframe bushings. AKG sells some that raise the subframe 12mm up into the car - that effectively takes out 1/2 degree out the the car.

eccentric bushings should only be used if class rules require OEM parts, the problem is they don't hold adjustment very well and they change toe and camber at the same time, in addition to being restricted in their range of adjustment.

Yeah i looked at those, but the thing i dont wany poly bushings as they will make weird sounds then and the ride will be stiffer, am i correct? So probably oem will be my best bet and will last probably 20 years? Haha

[nando]

subframe bushings do not make noise, and if you don't go with a super high durometer it's not really a lot stiffer than the stock rubber bushings.

[schtozo]

subframe bushings do not make noise, and if you don't go with a super high durometer it's not really a lot stiffer than the stock rubber bushings.

Well i see 2 choices either the 75d or 80a. My choice should be 80a? And then some oem RTABs should make the job? By the way will you recommend me to get new bolts and nuts at least for the subframe bushings and reuse the rtabs old ones? I dont want any surprises and then have to leave the car a week till i can find new ones. So tell me what should i do? Sorry to ask so many stupid questions but i really dont have any experience with bushing changing and dunno what will be the condition of the mentioned bolts

[LJ851]

True , subframe bushes dont effect ride quality but remember your diff is bolted solid to the subframe and the harder your bushes are the more diff noise is transmitted into the chassis . BTW, none of these bushes are easy to replace . do you have access to a press ?Or know someone with the special tools ? You will be cursing your first time at this rodeo !

[nando]

Well i see 2 choices either the 75d or 80a. My choice should be 80a? And then some oem RTABs should make the job? By the way will you recommend me to get new bolts and nuts at least for the subframe bushings and reuse the rtabs old ones? I dont want any surprises and then have to leave the car a week till i can find new ones. So tell me what should i do? Sorry to ask so many stupid questions but i really dont have any experience with bushing changing and dunno what will be the condition of the mentioned bolts

80a is the one to go with.

it's not going to make any difference to cabin noise. Maybe 75d, but I'd be surprised if you could even tell a difference with 80a bushings.