What's the Deal with E36 vs E30 window switches?
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Seriously? Your e30 switches must be jacked up. Mine are easily pressed...I would check the wiring harness that plugs into the switch. My passenger side was jacked up. I pulled the wires and attached them directly. The switched worked without much effort. The problem was the ground wire end was smashed to hell. I'm in the process of getting the replacement wire connector ends to fix.Leave a comment:
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What about these? I was going to order one up and see how well it works. But its a little low on the list right now.Leave a comment:
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Any new updates?
I remember a member on here did it to his black 325 vert. I forgot his name, but his user name started with an "O" and he lived over in south jersey. I haven't seen him post in a long time so I don't know if he still checks the forum or not.Leave a comment:
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Master down for a vert?
Has anyone done a switch for all 4 windows to drop with a single switch in an E30?Leave a comment:
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Not labeled on my modules (2dr or 4dr) and couldn't find any clear marking on the circuit board either. Looks like just the connectors have the pinout markings from what I have.
btw, I'm working with 4dr #61.35-8 364 149 and I can't find where I put the 2dr module at the moment....Leave a comment:
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Nope, I only have a late model euro E36 ETM, is that the same deal?
I thought about timing too, but as age takes its toll, that could be kind of a crap shoot.Leave a comment:
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No clue, but the module needing to know where the window is could be timed, with a constant re-sync on full up. No idea how BMW did it.
Dave, have you looked at the E36 ETM, at the body control module? Its nutz.Leave a comment:
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I always wondered about that, is there any kind of feedback to the module on where the window is?
I was screwing around with a Mustang that has it and noticed if the window was already down a bit it wouldn't do that.Leave a comment:
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I just spent a few minutes with the '95 E36 ETM.
Pinouts on each connector are very clear, but I don't know if they are labeled on the module. I will look later unless someone else pops up first.
I think an E36 module would kick ass if it were controlling domelights, locks, windows and sunroof...because then, a simple "timed" output from my alarm will close the entire car.
If I can get this down, I bet the 'vert boys would love to have that "door open vent" deal, would be way easier to close the damn doors.Leave a comment:
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I'll see what I can do, but I need to put my car back together somewhat before I can do that.
Here ya go!
EDIT: Hmm, looks like the wire colors change a bit on later models, go by terminals A B C and D instead.
1. You are correct, the GM 1T is a time based one touch.1. The GM system WILL NOT do a proper "one touch" using the BMW 1T switches: there is no way to toggle it on the 2nd click. The GM module also will not trigger from an alarm without the use of a 2nd module.
2. Aftermarket window control modules also will not operate with the 1T window switches, you have to use the "big wire" switches, which are not as reliable as the late "small wire" E36 switches, however you do it, you will not have proper 1T switching like a late E36 has.
2. You could just build something to use them, I just drew up a nasty solution that would work (5 relays, a diode and a circuit breaker per 1t window, yuck.)
I'm sure with more thought, myself or someone else could slim that down into a more elegant setup, though two relays minimum are required to use the low current switches, so maybe its not THAT bad...Leave a comment:
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I wonder if it's possible to retrofit the system by removing the entire e30 window wiring (keep motors, guides, etc) and replace it with the small base e36 switches and integrate the control module on its own (all you would need is the correct power source). It would be a pain in the ass to rewire the entire system but it could possible work.
Although, it sounds like you said the General Control Module is also dependent on another main circuit board, which would obviously be impossible to work with.Leave a comment:

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