Need help installing a 3.46 LSD

[Mercury[BKM]]

I bought this about a month ago

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=92809&highlight=

3.46LSD lowish miles and i just now got around to having some time off to put it in, however, I have NEVER installed one of these things.

my eta isn't LSD and as far as i understand i need replace the output flanges (what/where are those) and the front cover?

is it possible to install myself or should i enlist a lackey?

any help, or typed up walk through would be great (even better someone local able to give me a hand?)

[TurboJake]

Axle stubs pop out with little force using a prybar. That won't be an issue. I'm not entirely sure if you need to swap them over, but it doesn't involve anything other than just popping them out.
Yes, you'll need the change the rear cover from the E28 one, to the E30 one.

^Both of these processes shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes.

Install the diff by yourself? Sure. I did it no problemo. Problem is they are heavy motherfucking bricks of iron when your on your back trying to line up the top bolts to bolt it in while holding the diff in place with one hand, scared the motherfucker will fall on your face.

I suggest using a hydraulic jack to lift in the diff. That's what I ended up doing. The lackey for hire is really up to you if you want company or not.

It really, really isn't difficult. It's just heavy shit and time consuming. It took me 2 hours to do when I went from the 4.10 to the 3.64 LSD. I wasn't in any rush.

[LuckyHenriksen]

Not complicated, just prepare to get dirty and curse frequently. Resting it on a floor jack is the best way to position it. It makes it a much easier task if you have s friend operate the jack for you

[Mercury[BKM]]

yeah ive got a good friend here who said he'd help (im helping him rebuild his eta) Ive just never done a diff that needed a few modifications to fit. other than that its just plug and play?


i figured i'd put the back on jackstands and put the diff on my jack.. jack it into position bolt bolt.. vroom vroom. the output flanges were just kind of intimidating seeing as i had no idea where or what there were

[Kershaw]

and try not to have diff fall off the jack and on top of you.

you'll be very unhappy.

[long tall eta]

http://www.e30eta.com/ go through this web page and you will find
step by step instructions and oh, by the way, have your helper there, you'll be glad you did. i swapped out my 293 for a 325 and they r bricks of iron. hardest part for me was getting the top mounting bolts back in. it was hard to line it up and there isn't much clearence to get good turns on the wrench. this article will aid you emensly.

Removing and Replacing an E30 BMW Differential

1. If there's a lot of dirt and grease under the back of your car, do yourself a favor and pressure wash under there before taking on the job. You'll cut the grief and aggravation factor by at least 75 percent.
2. Jack up the rear of the car as high as possible. Don't jack on the differential; use the rear suspension carrier. Place jack stands under the rear suspension carrier mounts.
3. Drain the differential oil. Reinstallation torque on the drain and fill plugs is 50 Nm (36 ft-lb). If you've removed the cover, reinstallation torque is 50 Nm (36 ft-lb), and you must use new wave washers.
4. Cut the safety wire with a pair of side cutters and gently remove the speed sensor cable connector.
5. Using a long-handled 3/8-in. ratchet and an 8mm allen socket (preferably a long one), remove the inner CV joint retaining bolts on both sides. You can use the parking brake to lock the drivetrain. Reinstallation torque is 58 Nm (42 ft-lb).
6. Using a 17mm short open end wrench and the park brake, remove the four driveshaft to differential flange nuts and slip out the special bolts. It's impossible to get a torque wrench on these nuts. Just make 'em real tight. They're lock nuts, so if they've been off more than once or twice buy new ones-part no. 07 12 9 964 672.
7. Using a 22mm box wrench and a 1/2-in. drive ratchet with a 22mm socket, remove the 12mm bolt that toes through the rubber differential mount. The diff will drop about 2 or 3 inches now. Reinstallation torque is 87 Nm (63 ft-lb).
8. Place a floor jack with a piece of plywood under the differential.
9. Using a 19mm short box wrench and a the 1/2-in. ratchet with a 19mm socket and a 1-in. extension, remove the differential housing to axle carrier retaining bolts. Reinstallation torque is 123 Nm (89 ft-lb), if you can get a torque wrench on the fasteners.

[long tall eta]

oh, forgot step 10

#10 Carefully lower the floor jack and say hello to your diff. As the British say, "Assembly is the reverse; good luck!"

[Mercury[BKM]]

didnt ever read that far down when i found that site... thats what i get for being in a rush =D!! thanks boss, really do appreciate it