AWD lowering question.. non-bmw content

[Ryan...]

I'm considering picking up a 1999 Audi A4 1.8t 5 speed as my new DD. I like the idea of gaining over 40hp & 50ft lbs with software upgrades and having AWD for those damn winter months.

My question is, why cant I find any instances online of people having problems with lowering their AWD cars? I was under the impression that lowering an AWD car would result in drivetrain issues, but searching Audi forums I'm seeing that people never mention having any issues whatsoever, or they completely ignore it

Can anyone provide insight as to what issues I might encounter if I were to drop an AWD A4 approx 1.5" f/r with springs/shocks? Is that not enough of a drop to affect the car?

* I certainly wouldn't be looking for the slammed look, as this needs to get through 2-4ft of snow that typically accumulates around here..

[Julien]

no to b5 a4

[alB5]

Get a 2.8, the 1.8t has such random problems. Also check out this thread.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/346439-The-official-A4-quot-low-quot-Thread

People lower and "slam" these cars on a regular bases. So I think you'll be fine with a small drop.

[nomansland92]

Subies get lowered every day and they hold up just fine. I've seen a few a4's slammed

[GThomas]

I had a B5 S4 for about 5 years with no issues on HR Race. Go S4 if you're gunna do it, they are pretty cheap now.

[Ryan...]

no to b5 a4

why that true son?

Get a 2.8, the 1.8t has such random problems. Also check out this thread.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/346439-The-official-A4-quot-low-quot-Thread

People lower and "slam" these cars on a regular bases. So I think you'll be fine with a small drop.

What kind of random problems? Thanks for the link too!

I had a B5 S4 for about 5 years with no issues on HR Race. Go S4 if you're gunna do it, they are pretty cheap now.

I wanna spend less than $4k on this, so an S4 is really out of the question. At most the A4 would be getting an APR tune and possibly an exhaust. I dont need anything really quick, as I'm gonna be getting a Ducati 1098 next spring :)

[1mz]

Get a 2.8, the 1.8t has such random problems. Also check out this thread.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/346439-The-official-A4-quot-low-quot-Thread

People lower and "slam" these cars on a regular bases. So I think you'll be fine with a small drop.

there are some pretty a4's on that thread

[alB5]

Well, before I was going to get an E30 I was looking at B5's (specifically Avant's) and I've read numerous times that the 2.8 V6 is much more durable. The 1.8t has to be thoroughly maintained constantly, being a FI motor and all. If you find a decent 1.8t that has timing belt/ water pump/ and no noise coming from the turbo then go for it. Same goes for the 2.8 , they need a timing belt change every 100k. Only downside to the V6 is the engine bay space. It's as cramped in there as the S4 2.7t. You should look into UR S4's and UR S6's if you can find one in your area.

[Ryan...]

Well, before I was going to get an E30 I was looking at B5's (specifically Avant's) and I've read numerous times that the 2.8 V6 is much more durable. The 1.8t has to be thoroughly maintained constantly, being a FI motor and all. If you find a decent 1.8t that has timing belt/ water pump/ and no noise coming from the turbo then go for it. Same goes for the 2.8 , they need a timing belt change every 100k. Only downside to the V6 is the engine bay space. It's as cramped in there as the S4 2.7t. You should look into UR S4's and UR S6's if you can find one in your area.

I've found a couple A4 1.8t with timing belt, water pump, thermostat, fuel pump, and newer clutch for right around $4-5k, which is basically the budget I want to spend on this. As I said above, I would be checking maintenance first, then it would get an APR tune for 215hp/250ft lbs, which is more than enough power for a DD that will see a lot of winter driving.

After riding in my friends S4 yesterday I can honestly say I'd love to have one, but for the most part they're all above $7k around here, which is just more than I want to spend on a car right now..

[Brandon12V]

umm.... if i was going b5 a4, it sure as fuck wouldn't be a 2.8. unless you plan on dumping alot of money into a tt kit. There's no room to grow. b5's are kind of a hit or miss. Some have a shitload of electronic gremlins and oil leaks, others are stout as fuck. Working on these cars, i found most 1.8t's to have electronic issues, if anything. Parts aren't exactly "cheap", relatively speaking, and neither is labor. i've done more 1.8t timing belt jobs than I care to mention. the motors and drivetrain are easy to work on. suspension and steering can get labor intensive. and the electronics..... so much fun tracking down shorts or bad relays. I like audi's so I'm not biased, but a b5 a4 is something that will never see a home in my garage.

[alB5]

It's just a DD, and stock the 30v pushes about 190 crank. Which is fine for a daily driver with AWD. Chassis is a bit of a pain in the ass (they have 10 suspension related parts in the front). But it comes to show with any car, if you take care of it, it will take care of you in return. Can't wait to pick up a C4 S4 as a winter car.

[Ryan...]

umm.... if i was going b5 a4, it sure as fuck wouldn't be a 2.8. unless you plan on dumping alot of money into a tt kit. There's no room to grow. b5's are kind of a hit or miss. Some have a shitload of electronic gremlins and oil leaks, others are stout as fuck. Working on these cars, i found most 1.8t's to have electronic issues, if anything. Parts aren't exactly "cheap", relatively speaking, and neither is labor. i've done more 1.8t timing belt jobs than I care to mention. the motors and drivetrain are easy to work on. suspension and steering can get labor intensive. and the electronics..... so much fun tracking down shorts or bad relays. I like audi's so I'm not biased, but a b5 a4 is something that will never see a home in my garage.

Thats why I'm looking for one with some decent maintenance done, so it will be pretty solid for the next 2-3 years while I'm going back to school. I just cant rely on the e30 for all the commuting I have to do, and that extra 8mpg will save me a shit load of money in the long run.

Plus, I have a lot of mechanically inclined friends that are always willing to spend a day helping me out for beer, food, and gas money ;)

Oh yeah, have I mentioned that the turbo would be fun to play around with if I decide I can afford some more HP and the related costs??

[Bimmerman325i]

subies get lowered every day and they hold up just fine. I've seen a few a4's slammed

+1

[plmichal]

go ahead and lower it. just make sure you run evenly worn tires. you'd be amazed at how quickly you can fuck up your diff on an awd car if you run uneven tires.

[Brandon12V]

^^^which is why I said 1.8 instead of 2.8. Don't get me wrong, the 2.8v6 is strong, durable motor. Almost as durable as the 12VR6, but you'll be wanting more power eventually. Best of luck in your endeavor. If you need a healthy car for daily commuting, I would go for something more maintenance friendly in a fwd platform. If you go AWD in an audi, do as you said... Look for a car with up to date bushings, steering components, etc. If anything, deal with maintenance on the motor. They really are easy to work on. Most of the jobs can be done in your garage in less than 2 days with a friend(donor head swap included). Also, I've found it pretty consistant to replace a turbo on those cars every 120-150,000 miles(this is also an easy swap). Pop off the plastic engine cover and intake pipe... check the turbine shaft for play on intake side if the owner will let you. If not, take it to a shop and choke up the 50-100 bucks to have everything checked(you probably know this). It's worth it. Also if you find any oil in the charge pipe, the turbo is probably on it's last leg. We usually dont even have to check the shaft for play if there "excess" oil in the pipe. If you find just a little oil, spin the shaft. If it doesn't spin freely, the turbo cooked oil. In which case, ask if he's ever has to replace any cooling components. See if you can rent a vag-com cable from someone and bring a computer. If it's an unmolested vehicle, chances are there are still codes stored on the ECU from past repairs. On the bright side, the b5 chassis' are very resistant to rust.