Hey guys, I'm new here at r3vlimited, and in dire need of your advice, experience, and opinions. I purchased my 1986 325e about 3 months ago and I'm slowly yet surely starting to address more of the serious issues. My most pressing issue, this truly makes me lose sleep at night, is the rust in my trunk. My entire battery compartment bottom is rusted out, the only support comes from the black battery tray. I also have a few small spots of rust, about a half dollar in diameter where the factory jack resides. With all of this in mind, where do I start!? I am easily discouraged by things i don't know much about, I would like to remove the rear bumper, which are diving boards, in order to inspect the full extent of the damage. I can't even find a decent DIY on removing the diving board bumpers, neither front or back. Again, any advice, experience, and opinions would be greatly appreciated. [/FONT][/SIZE]I'll have pics up tomorrow.
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My 1986 325e...and it's RUST!
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m kay
1991 BMW 318i (Old Shell RIP, Now Being Re-shelled & Reborn)
1983 Peugeot 505 STI
1992 Volvo 240 Wagon
2009 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD
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For the battery tray your best bet is to either take off any real loose rust and sand it down, spray it with rust neutralizer (you can pick that up at an auto parts store or even wallmart usually) and then have someone or if your experienced enough weld in a plate and put some kind of coating on it, I had a similar problem with my spare tire well and I had actually just took a cutting wheel to it, and welded in a new piece and used a normal truck bed liner spray on it to seal it (top and bottom of corse) but the same process can be used for anything that isn't on the visible side of the car, as far as removing the bumpers go BE CAREFUL! the bolts on them like to snap quite often and are a pain in the ass. If you want to tuck them just drill out the pistons and push them in. (note pushing them in isn't as easy as it sounds, alot of people bump against walls to do it, I just put the brake on and threw a towel over the bumper and gave it a few good kicks). But for the most part it's some what of an easy task. If you have any more questions just post about them or feel free to message me. Good luck.
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=41.281365,-72.886596
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Thanks for your input russhixmo! I was planning on using an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel to remove the damaged metal. Then doing exactly what you recommended with the rust neutralizer, welding, and truck bed liner spray. My discouragement comes from a potential bad investment, my e30 needs a lot of TLC. Mainly in the mechanical area, it's appearance is not too bad, the muffler, engine, etc, needs the most attention."Never thought I'd ever be able to afford a car, let alone a BMW."
I love my 325e
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I just sold my e30 because I was in way over my head. Usually the motor aspect of e30's is a lot of sensor issues such as coolant temp sensors and O2 sensors. Gaskets as well. All are very easily replaced and relatively cheap. Good luck though. Let me know if you need any advice.
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=41.281615,-72.887225
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^^ this works very well. make sure to get all the rust out-FREEDOM- is cruisin at 80, windows down and listening to the perfect song-thinking "this is it"
-The Beauty in the Tragedy-
MECHANIC SMASH!!- (you all know you do it)
Got Drop?? ;-)
Originally posted by JinormusJBut of course
E30s are know to be notoriously really really really ridiculously good looking
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This is why rust was a primary issue I was concerned about when buying my car. The engine and everything else was in decent shape but there was a barely a spec of rust to be found. Mechanic issues are far easier to repair than body.
uck.
On my cherokee I had before this I decided to patch a few small holes I found in the floor. Those small holes turned into the entire front passenger floor pan after I started knocking rust off. Not fun but it can be done, good l91 318is M50 swapped
05 Honda Pilot
24V swap thread
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=302524
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