BMW e30 M3 Wreck :(((

[ian3]

I looked at the car again today and the frame is not bent...after replacing the nut for the engine mount(17mm nut) I realized that the mount was actually pushed toward the frame. After taking a long flat head screwdriver and prying it back to its normal position, the nut went in and tightened up fine. If you look at the first picture on this page, you can see how close the engine mount is to the frame. There should be at least 1 inch of clearance between the engine mount and the frame. The whole car was shaking before this process and now there is minimal vibration :)

[M-technik-3]

So sounds as thought the motor mount was loose as well. Who did the conversion?

[ian3]

motor mount got loose after the collision...car was fine before, but i started to rev it up to 3k and the car started shaking..after getting the nut and spacer, the vibration went away...VAC motorsports in Pennsylvania did the swap. The problem wasn't the swap, it was the people who fixed the car after the collision about a year ago..They did a horrible job...

[McGyver]

so where are you located in VA? if you're not too far, i'd be down to help you out if you need it and im sure other people would be willing too. i didnt read the whole thread, but you're going to need a new strut tube (junkyard) and might as well replace the inner and outer tie rods, control arms, and control arm bushings. basically an afternoon of work if you're taking your time.

[ian3]

I have actually taken off the control arm, tie rod, and steering knuckle(strut tube is fine)...the new left steel lower control arm, new whole left tie rod assembly, and steering knuckle have all been ordered already...but if you would like to come by and see if you can find anything else you are more than free and we can just chat...i reside in dumfries, va

[ian3]

btw...anyone know the easiest way to get that dam support from the lower control arm off the bushing?

[McGyver]

how old are the matching components on the passenger side? if it was me and i had the money for it, i would replace everything in pairs so that you know everything is fine. (other than the knuckle and tube on the passenger side) if you were closer i'd come by, but its sort of a long drive on my current budget (broke college student with a mountain of debt :/ ) their should be a huge e30 group up there to help out though.

*they call that a lollipop, and you have to use a press to get the old bushing out and the new one in. windex is helpful to get the new bushing on the control arm, or urethane grease if you went with urethane bushings. just make sure that you only press on the outer metal ring so you dont rip the rubber center out. and since they'll be offset, make sure that you have that you have the offset in the right direction.

[ian3]

yea I know man...I was going to get a new set of control arms but I just don't have the money right now...I just want to make sure the car drives fine first and then I will replace the other control arm...I am also currently enrolled in VA tech for Mechanical Engineering as an independent so we are in the same boat...the only thing you can do is just save your money and then in case of emergency use it...like my suspension failure

[McGyver]

hahaha, im at VCU for Mechanical Engineering (and physics with a math minor and concentration in nuclear engineering). in fact im supposed to be studying for my modern physics quiz in 3 hours. oh well.

how did your wheel end up?

[ian3]

nice my friend is doing Biomedical engineering at VCU....but the wheel is fine it didn't hit anything hard enough to bend it...I was lucky with this whole fiasco, it could've been much worse. I am thankful

[ian3]

and where can I find a press to do this procedure?