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zMAX, Liqui Moly engine flush, or Seafoam

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    zMAX, Liqui Moly engine flush, or Seafoam

    I seafoamed my car a few months ago and tons of smoke spewed out. maybe it idled smoother idk. i realized I was in bad need of motor mounts shortly after so the "ass dyno" wasnt calibrated till after motor and tranny mounts got installed.lolz

    Well now im wondering how I can clean out more gook from the motor without taking it all apart. I saw this from Robbies daily turbo build around the time I started my build thread and have no reason to believe mine will look any better.
    Click image for larger version

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    and with some elbow grease he got one clean followed by the rest
    Click image for larger version

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    Should I even expect any of these products to do anywhere as good as pulling it all apart. Ive put seafoam in my oil and run it for my last 100 miles before an oil change but zMAX always seemed so expensive. Then I read the website and the "technology" in it and am starting to believe it may help

    Anyone have some kind of some kind of miracle story for any of the 3?
    Are they all just out for my money and dont really do anything?
    please share...
    m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
    build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

    #2
    why, actually carbon build-up is raising your compression (not anything noticable) but it isn't hurting anything either.

    his pistons are going to look the same after a few thousand miles anyway.

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      #3
      It won't benefit you anything. It may actually make matters worse.
      If it ain't broke. Don't fix it.

      Also. If zmax gets on top of your pistons. You have issues to deal with.


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        #4
        thats what i was kinda thinking after I posted. cause zmax claims there shit gets there and soaks into the metal but im not too sharp on engine building.lol u got me
        I do have gook on my front spark plug tho. idk if its oil or gas but its more oily...is that piston rings?
        actually where can i find a write up or some kinda book that could tell me whats goin on based on my plugs. ive heard it can be very telling if there are problems. I need to know there are no problems in there
        I know what u mean tho jake, if it aint broke. dont fix it.
        I just havnt gotten around to a shop for a compression test or anything so I dont want something to break and a mechanic looks inside and say some shit like, "well im not surprised, come take a look at this".
        m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
        build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

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          #5


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            #6
            ^ the man..thanks
            m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
            build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

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              #7
              Dont add any of the "miracle" products. Seafoam in the intake is fine, but i wouldnt add anything to your oil, especially a detergent. I just compression tested my motor with somewhere near 300k (odo broken) and every cylinder was at 160 psi.
              -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                #8
                well if you've ever worked on a motor with a blown headgasket you will see the best way to decarbonize the combustion chamber is with coolant as the piston in the leaking cylinder will be nice and clean just like that one in pics above. not that i recommend it but it does the best job . ive seen turbo motors running water injection and chambers are always nice and clean at rebuild time,of course they see lots of maintenance with frequent oil changes
                Angus
                88 E30M3 X2
                89 325IX
                92 R100GS/PD
                :)

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by spdracrm3 View Post
                  well if you've ever worked on a motor with a blown headgasket you will see the best way to decarbonize the combustion chamber is with coolant as the piston in the leaking cylinder will be nice and clean just like that one in pics above. not that i recommend it but it does the best job . ive seen turbo motors running water injection and chambers are always nice and clean at rebuild time,of course they see lots of maintenance with frequent oil changes

                  Funny you mention it, an old school way for cleaning out carburated engines was to drizzle some water down the throat of the carb...took a chance in messing up the motor, but sure cleaned things up. You could grab a vac hose and do it with these motors as well, but you REALLY need to be careful and monitor how much water is going in (a lot easier drizzling it down a carb throat) too much and your going to hydro lock the motor and bend some rods.
                  -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

                  Comment


                    #10
                    that's not really old school.

                    we still do it all the time in the rotary community. you cant hydrolock a rotary though. it steam cleans the engine!
                    AWD > RWD

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