Anyone use Rotella T diesel oil in their gasoline e30?

[Vivek]

Now this is driving me insane. I know I won't put synthetic in my m20. But for the 193k m42, is it actually a good idea to use (switch to) synthetic? I don't want it to leak, but I also don't want any engine wear on this older engine. Some people seem to say just let sleeping dogs lie, and dino is perfectly fine. Others say that it was designed for the uniformity of synthetic. Most tend to say that synthetic's smaller particles and cleaners will cause leaks, which would be absolutely terrible on an otherwise leak-free e30.

[Shangsta]

if you are soo concerned with zddp just buy the comp cams zddp additive and throw in with whatever oil you run...

[Devil Inc]

I have used Rotella T in my E30 since I bought it.

[deucey]

I found this over in a hotrodder's forum, maybe this will help:

"Hey Ya'll,
The latest rumors about Rotella had me thinking we were down to using high dollar racing oil. Found a Rotella web site, emailed a question, took a nap, got a reply. Sometimes its your day. Here is question and reply;
I have heard that Rotella T CI-4 is being phased out, replaced by CJ-4. Is the ZDDP content being reduced? If so, by what percentage, or what will the PPM of ZDDP be with the new oil if its not a trade secret? The hotrod guys are dying to know, we've all been using Rotella due to flat tappet camshaft break in problems using the new oils without the ZDDP additives.

Here is his reply:
We still sell Rotella T 15w-40 CI-4 in 55 gallon drums, but not in smaller packages. It has approximately 1400 ppm zinc. You can buy this from a shell lubricants distributor.
Since Oct. 15,2006 all small packaging has been Rotella T with triple protection 15w-40 CJ-4 and it has approximately 1200 ppm zinc. This is 50% more zinc than current passenger car motor oils which contain approximately 800 ppm zinc. Passenger car motor oils had approximately 1200 ppm zinc prior to 2001. In 2001 the zinc was reduced to 1000 ppm and in 2005 reduced again to the current 800 ppm.
Thus, the new Rotella T with triple protection 15w-40 CJ-4 has the same zinc content that passenger car motor oils had in 2000 before the current problems with flat tappets began.
However, zinc compounds are not the only additives that can reduce wear. We were able to reduce wear approximately 50% with the new Rotella T with triple protection 15w-40 CJ-4 formulation.

This is from a staff engineer in Houston, Texas."

[MattAvino]

I will never know what oil to put in my m20...:(

[Vivek]

non vanos m50, m42, m52, 4.0L jeep, 351 in my f150

Do you use synthetic or dino?

[Vivek]

Well, I didn't get anything today. Rotella at kragen didn't have the right weight (they had like 10-30 i think), and the kragen full synthetic wasn't on sale and I didn't wanna pay $5.50 a quart. Oh well...next weekend.\

Edit: what's the difference between full synthetic and synthetic blend? Is the blend a decent compromise, or should you just get dino or full synthetic?

[TobyB]

But people all know it best on their own, it does not make sense to discuss this out in the internet, as everyone will recommend a different kind of oil.

Of course, and science be damned.

Last I looked at Mobil's literature, the 15-50 still had 1200 ppm ZDDP.
And the levels varied a LOT depending on weight.
Which made sense, since 0w20 is for modern Hondas, and 20-50 is NOT recommended
for a motor newer than the M20.

If it says 'LE' or "Low Emissions" Delo, Rotella, Delwhatevervac probably has below 800ppm. Often 600 ppm. Sometimes you can find factory numbers...

If there's a 'starburst' on it, you're equally low in ZDDP.

Low ZDDP oil probably won't kill a well- broken in M20 with standard valve springs.

It does a number on a rebuilt M10 with an uprated cam and springs.

t

[Bimmerman325i]

Oil: SRS BSNS.

[Emre]

Just goes to show that you can't trust the labels and marketing. If you want to know what goes into your crankcase, you have to sit down and do some research.

As for me, I'll stick with Brad Penn PG-1 20W-50 (for my M20-powered 318is track/weekend toy) and Amsoil Dominator RD50 15W-50 (for my 190E Cosworth race car). At least I know what I'm getting for my money.

[stamar]

they also have more expensive oil. Im not sure why i need to look into motul.\
their most expensive stuff is not the same stuff....

The main thing is, its not sold here at least in retail. Here on the west coast, it is sold as oreilly brand and walmart brand ( spectrum), both of which are mobil brands.

I learned about motul when discovering oreilly brand synthetic. There was actually an introductory sale where it was 2$ a quart. and I wish I bought it all.

the main refinery of motul is in vancouver bc, and stores in seattle do drive over and get it.

now on the third hand, motul also makes mobil 1. But theres nothing that shows that oreilly brand is the same as mobil one. it just has the same maker. mobil 1 still has a exxon mobil additive and oreilly brand has a motul additive.

it is my opinion this motul/oreilly oil is the best thing out there but run it by the bobistheoilguys. It is a type 3 oil and it definitely lasts 10k miles.
I honestly have no idea about zddp

I think motul is sort of sold like amsoil in canada actually.


edit oreilly brand is sourced from mobil in some markets, and warren in some markets. the stuff made by motul is the stuff from omni brands. the other stuff is from warren ozark automotive. just to make this as confusing as possible.... oreilly and wallmart aparently share their oil and buy it from eachother. could be from anywhere.

[Emre]

no im positive motul is sold as mobil one. its in the oil guy thing.

I stand corrected.

motul synthetic is significantly cheaper than mobil 1. Im sure they have different grades.

I find that hard to believe. 300V is really excellent and holds up to track use like no other. I've been very involved in motorsports for the last 10 years or so. I have friends with factory rides in European rally championships, etc. Almost everyone in European endurance racing runs 300V Le Mans. You hardly see anything else...and no one runs Mobil 1. So I find it hard to believe that Motul makes crap.

looking at wikipedia, motul invented whats called synthetic blend oil.

I know for a fact that they were the first to bring a Gr.V oil to the market.

[stamar]

no im positive motul is sold as mobil one. its in the oil guy thing.

motul also makes mobil one gear oil.

It is a marketing partnership. The opposite is also probably true, motul sells mobil 1 also.

It is widely known in canada where motul is made and sold and a household brand.

vancouver is where there big operation is.

motul is french, but it is a big brand in canada and made there.

motul synthetic is significantly cheaper than mobil 1. Im sure they have different grades.
looking at wikipedia, motul invented whats called synthetic blend oil.

[Emre]

some grades of mobil 1 are actually the canadian brand motul. They make very cheap synthetic oil. It is coming up as oreilly and wallmart brand synthetic.

You're thinking of Motomaster, which is the house brand for the Canadian Tire chain of stores (similar to Sears). And I'm pretty sure the connection goes the other way: it's more likely that Exxon/Mobil would produce a generic Gr.III oil that's packaged and sold as "Motomaster Formula 1 High-Mileage" in Canadian Tire stores rather than the other way around. BTW, I used to live in Canada, and I'm pretty familiar with Canadian Tire stores. I don't believe they have their own refineries, though I may be wrong.

Motul is not a Canadian brand and it is not cheap.

Motul is a French company and they are known for their 300V Competition oil, which was the very first synthetic oil to use a dual-ester (Gr.V) base stock. Motul is absolutely top-shelf stuff. It's used exclusively by a huge number of top Moto GP, FIA GT, and WRC race teams. It's safe to say that the vast majority of cars in the major European 24-hrs endurance racing series (e.g., Le Mans, Nurburgring, Spa) and most Paris-Dakar teams run Motul 300V in the 20W-60 "Le Mans" formulation.

[stamar]

that is true mobil 1 had this zddp then and was fully synthetic.

i had noticed that mobil 1 0-40 is the magic grade you are talking about.

a quick google search of which oils are pa0 comes back with mobil 1 except 10 30 and 5 30 ( which still includes 15 50) and castrol edge ( or german castrol)

all the other ones are type 3 refined synthetic. Which for me is still great and lasts noticeably longer. but dont ever pay 6$ for it. Theres a reason why its for sale for 4$ a lot.

I like this valvoline synpower for 3.50 a quart or oreilly brand for 3.50 a quart. the name brand type 3. Consider it synthetic blend but as opposed to 30% more like 70% thats all it is. thats perfect for all of my cars.

some grades of mobil 1 are actually the canadian brand motul(edit actually french but made in canada). They make very cheap synthetic oil. It is coming up as oreilly and wallmart brand synthetic.

motul is also motorcraft synthetic.


Since Im in a oil nerd thread I just wanted to add

I just changed my oil with valvoline synthetic, 15 50, and redline mt 90 and the redline mt90 smells like tar and is several shades darker.
redline mt 90 is very expensive its 14$ a quart if you find it cheap. But Id swear that if anything it has to be the type 3 cracked dino oil synthetic because it smells like oil.
whereas valvoline is getting close to being clear...