Alternative timing belt material...

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  • HawaiianE30
    replied
    I know... I'll just swap out the m20 for the AMC I4.0L in my Cherokee... T-Chain ftw!

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  • dannyg
    replied
    timing chain duh

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  • FLG
    replied
    So your telling me higher rate springs, spinning the engine higher than factory , and doing so at a faster rate has NOTHING to do with timing belt wear?

    Nando, would the belt not be going through more heat cycles faster? Wouldn't a faster increase in rpm vs slower also increase heat?

    Sorry but I'm not believing that

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    Originally posted by FLG
    It puts added wear on the belt. Your spinning the engine the same rpm but your doing so at a much faster rate.

    Also if your planning on doing upgrades to raise the rev limit like stiffer springs or a steeper cam, again more stress on the belt.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
    no

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  • nando
    replied
    let's put it this way: the timing belt is either 50k or 5 years, whichever comes first. it's the age of the material more than anything. the rubber will degrade due to heat cycles. RPM has little to do with it.

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  • Vivek
    replied
    Originally posted by FLG
    It puts added wear on the belt. Your spinning the engine the same rpm but your doing so at a much faster rate.
    How does that work?

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  • Stephen
    replied
    Originally posted by FLG
    It puts added wear on the belt. Your spinning the engine the same rpm but your doing so at a much faster rate.

    Also if your planning on doing upgrades to raise the rev limit like stiffer springs or a steeper cam, again more stress on the belt.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
    what

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by FLG
    It puts added wear on the belt. Your spinning the engine the same rpm but your doing so at a much faster rate.

    Also if your planning on doing upgrades to raise the rev limit like stiffer springs or a steeper cam, again more stress on the belt.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
    yeah, no.

    also, no point in making the belt last longer, because the tensioner and waterpump have the same interval (~50k).
    Last edited by nando; 12-10-2012, 07:08 AM.

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  • slammin.e28
    replied
    Timing belt update from the factory would be an M50.

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  • FLG
    replied
    It puts added wear on the belt. Your spinning the engine the same rpm but your doing so at a much faster rate.

    Also if your planning on doing upgrades to raise the rev limit like stiffer springs or a steeper cam, again more stress on the belt.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

    Leave a comment:


  • Vtec?lol
    replied
    Boosting a car doesn't put any added stress to the timing belt.

    Timing belts work. they're cheap, and only take 30min to change.

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  • HawaiianE30
    replied
    True, I guess my dreams of a space-age polymer timing belt are a little far fetched... damn.

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  • Cletonius
    replied
    Originally posted by HawaiianE30
    Well said... yeah originally it was a thought stemming from strength vs. having FI. But yeah your right it's fairly easy, I just had to do 2 of them in a row that's why it's on my mind.

    I also had a hard time finding a spare OEM 885 head... and every time it breaks that's another cost to factor in but I guess that only pertains to people who ignore the change intervals (the PO of my car).
    parts aren't as scarce on the mainland. I suspect part of the issue is being in hawaii.

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  • jlevie
    replied
    If you only get 45k out of a timing belt, something other than the belt is the cause. The tensioner might not have been replaced when the belt was last changed, the belt might have been over five years old, a failed alternator/water pump belt may have thrown debris under the timing cover, oil flow to cam shaft could be impaired, the crank bolt could loose, the cam sprocket could be loose, etc.

    In the absence of other problems a belt should last five years or 60k. Replacing the belt and tensioner every four years or 50k gives a bit more margin.

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  • HawaiianE30
    replied
    Well said... yeah originally it was a thought stemming from strength vs. having FI. But yeah your right it's fairly easy, I just had to do 2 of them in a row that's why it's on my mind.

    I also had a hard time finding a spare OEM 885 head... and every time it breaks that's another cost to factor in but I guess that only pertains to people who ignore the change intervals (the PO of my car).

    Leave a comment:

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