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    Dealing with a situation

    Well, I need R3v's advice on this matter.

    A little background info on the story: I got my cars suspension replaced with GC coils, IE sway bars, and brand new bushings. While the job was happening i decided to get brakes and ebrakes done, along with a few misc. items to just have peace of mind. I was unable to perform the job myself, and was forced to take it to a shop due to time restraints on my end. I took it to this shop, and they quoted $1200 to get all the work done. I was very happy with this price, as it was competitive with other shops in the area, and one of the techs that would be working on my car came from a highly reputable shop.

    What happened was I took the car in, and it took 2.5-3 weeks to get done, and the original time was 1 week. This was all well and good, because as we know bushings get seized, shops get busy, and things always take a bit longer than expected. When we got the car back, the price had jumped from $1200 to about $2200. I accepted this jump in price simply because of some extra things I asked them to do, and some fabrication was required for mounting the sway bars.

    In October, the car was in an accident (3 weeks or so after all this work was completed by the shop), it got put into a curb and bent the frame, totalling the car. All the suspension stuff (to my surprise) is all undamaged, and the only damage is a creased rear trailing arm from where it hit the curb, and all the wheels were destroyed. The frame, to my inspection, is in fact not bent, and the only major damage would be a replacement trailing arm and new wheels. But the way insurance deals with cars is another matter entirely.

    Fast forward to today. I am in the process of parting out the car and removing any usable parts - Ie. Coilovers, sway bars, subframe, all the regular stuff. As I am working on removing this stuff, I notice that a substantial amount of bolts and nuts are only finger tight. The set screws on the rotors were backing off and finger tight, 1 calliper bolt was loose, the sway bar end links were finger tight on the rear, bolts were beginning to back off on the sway bar mount points on the body, the subframe reinforcement welds to support the sway bars have started to rust due to them being bare metal, and worst of all the Ebrake cables weren't even tightened on so one side wasn't working at all.

    I have yet to even touch the front of the car yet.

    Here's the issue, All the items I have found have only been in the rear end, and ALL of them are important safety bolts. Had this car not been in an accident so soon after the work was done, I have a very good feeling it would have been in an accident due to something failing in the future.

    Since the car is now totalled, I really have no idea how to go about dealing with the shop. If it were still drivable, i would drive back and demand they fix it, but since that's not an option, I am rather stuck on what to do. One thing I know for certain is I am the only one who will work on my cars from now on, and will make sure I fix all this shit before it goes on to my mtech 2 project.

    I appreciate in advance for any input people have on the situation!
    320I - under construction

    #2
    I'm also still working on the car, and will post more improperly installed things as I find it. So far I've also discovered the subframe bushing bolt wasn't even tightened down.
    320I - under construction

    Comment


      #3
      At this point what difference does it make? As you said, you cannot simply drive the car back and have them fix it now can you? As long as you didn't get into the accident as a result of their work, I don't see what you can do.
      "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

      85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
      88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
      89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
      91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

      Comment


        #4
        From a legal perspective, there is nothing you can do. Just don't use the shop again and give them a bad review on yelp or Angie's list so that others don't use them.
        In the future, use Angie's list to find a mechanic. It's a powerful resource and anyone using the site for their business tries hard to keep customers happy so they don't get a bad reputation.
        sigpic

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          #5
          You're certain the accident was not a result of something failinf from their laziness? If it isn't, there really isn't anything you can do unless you can prove something failed and it's their fault. If not, just don't go to them anymore

          Heres my basic rule of thumb: Never take a car to a mechanic unless they are specialized with a certain vehicle. Just because you'd take the extra time to do something right doesn't always neccissarily mean they will

          Comment


            #6
            This is a bit of a tangent, but how did all four wheels get destroyed by hitting a curb with one wheel?
            Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

            Elva Courier build thread here!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by ELVA164 View Post
              This is a bit of a tangent, but how did all four wheels get destroyed by hitting a curb with one wheel?
              vehicle spin + (catastrophic tire failure * 4) = my guess
              past:
              1989 325is (learner shitbox)
              1986 325e (turbo dorito)
              1991 318ic (5-lug ITB)
              1985 323i baur
              current:
              1995 M3 (suspension, 17x9/255-40, borla)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by ELVA164 View Post
                This is a bit of a tangent, but how did all four wheels get destroyed by hitting a curb with one wheel?
                car spun out, 2 wheels hit parallel and popped up onto the curb, then the other side got curbed on the inner wheel
                320I - under construction

                Comment


                  #9
                  Fyi, rotor set screws are supposed to only be finger tight. They are only there to hold the rotor on until you bolt the wheel in place. Tightening them down only makes them difficult to remove later.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
                    Fyi, rotor set screws are supposed to only be finger tight. They are only there to hold the rotor on until you bolt the wheel in place. Tightening them down only makes them difficult to remove later.
                    Good to know. I was a little confused since 1 side was on quite tight, and the other was so loose.

                    More than likely I'll just phone them up, let them know they should be careful and have them brush it off, and go about my merry way.
                    320I - under construction

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I would like to think that the owner of the shop would want to know that one or some of their employees aren't tightening bolts and corrosion-protecting bare metal welds on a chassis. That's a future lawsuit waiting to happen. It's a shame that we can no longer count on "professionals" to simply do the job that we PAY them to do.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Call them up and tell whoever is in Charge. Do it.

                        BTW PM'd about the part out
                        1985 325e M50TU(Sold)
                        1991 318is Slicktop (Sold)
                        1990 325is Brilliantrot S50/5 Lug Swapped.
                        1992 525i Manual shitbox Winter Beater

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                          #13
                          it used to be i did all my own mechanic work because i couldn't afford to pay anyone else to do it. now i do all my own work because i don't trust anyone else to do it. i realize not everyone on this forum has the knowledge, resources and tools that i do. however, i think it was a good thing that you posted this because it is a good lesson for others.
                          sigpic
                          Gigitty Gigitty!!!!

                          88 cabrio becoming alpina b6 3.5s transplanted s62
                          92 Mtech 2 cabrio alpinweiss 770 code
                          88 325ix coupe manual lachsilber/cardinal
                          88 325ix coupe manual diamondschwartz/natur
                          87 e30 m3 for parts lachsilber/cardinal(serial number 7)
                          12 135i M sport cabrio grey/black

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