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First off, thanks for the thoughtful & insightful replies.
@downforce22
I dunno how you did the pump without removing the belt as it's part of the tensioner assembly too? Do the 2 tensioner mounting bolts hold the belt in place firmly enough that no tension is lost without it?
At this point I'm thinking I'll redo the job with gasket maker & let it cure overnight since I had better results with it on the last attempt than the gasket. I'm on the fence as to whether new gasket is worth trying since it worked out so poorly before.
Thanks for that. :)
The water pump holds the mount for the one side of the tensioner spring. When you pull it off the tensioner stays in place because the other two bolts should be tightly in place holding the tensioner in place. When you reassemble with the belt on you have to put the tensioner spring and pin back in place, then rotate the water pump into place under tension of the spring. I believe that is why the first time I missed the bolt holes and gasket because I was holding the pump against the tension of the springs trying to line up the bolt holes. It was easier when the gasket was sealed to the water pump so I could just line up the bolts and tighten down.
No one makes this car anymore. The government won't allow them, normal people won't buy them. So it's up to us: the freaks, the weirdos, the informed. To buy them, to appreciate them, and most importantly, to drive them.
I always clean the crap out of the block . Wire wheel it, sometimes left over hardendrd gasket is a bitch to remove. Then brake clean it so its perfect.
Then I use a thin layer of sealant on the the pump too glue the gasket into place. Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it lined up. I've never used JUST the paper gasket . I always use sealant to glue the gasket to the pump and then before it all dries I bolt it too the block . Never have had a leak .
Ive done it both ways. One with the paper gasket one with RTV. Just make sure both surfaces are clean and before you lay the pump back on take a straight edge to it and see if either of the mating surfaces are warped.
The gasket that comes with the graf pump is bogus. Order a new gasket from pelican and you won't have a problem. It is much thicker and works the first time. I had the same issue with this job once and have always since ordered a second gasket. The graf gasket is so thin it is easy to mangle and cause damage to it when installing the pump. Do not use RTV unless the block mounting surface is pitted and then use it sparingly to only fill in the pitted part. Good Luck!
The difference between porcupines and BMWs is that porcupines have the pricks on the outside!
^ lol, the gasket did seem to have all the structural integrity of tissue paper. I ordered a new gasket from WorldPac that's supposed to be here tomorrow. I also tore the motor back down and re-cleaned & sanded the mating surface on the block & pump. I'm going to go with the gasket with a light coating of Permatex to adhere it to the pump, & another thin coating on the block. I hope this is the last time I've gotta go through this, I want to get back to driving the car instead or working on it. It certainly has made me think a bit harder about a motor swap before the timing belt comes due again.
Originally posted by Dozyproductions
You know why you're drinking that Pabst? No its probably not because it was the first beer you grabbed. It's because you're a winner.
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