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Gauging Interest In My Custom Handcrafted Roof Racks
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Well, I think these are super cool. Super cool. I also think that they are priced right for the amount of work and materials that go into them.
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Great work, but that price is mighty high, especially for most r3vers. At +$550 for a roof rack I'm not sure how great sales will be on here, but don't let that stop you. I'd try to market them elsewhere for sure, the vw/stanceworks crowd will love them.
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Keep an eye out over the next few weeks everyone, I'm almost ready to debut my new design which I will be offering for sale. Just need to do a couple test runs with it and if everything checks out then it's go time!
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http://www.tufnutworks.com/hereshow.aspx
A Tufnut is threaded onto a bolt, finger-tight
A second nut is installed upside-down
A wrench is inserted between the two nuts to tighten
Once fastened, the second nut is removed
Use the same procedure (reversed) to remove nuts for maintenance
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Mikey, can you whip up a simple two-bar system? Basically two separate bars that mount to the gutters, that would allow me to slap on a set of roof rack pads like this?
Simple is the key here. I'd be interested what you can come up with. Nothing fancy, just functional. And probably powdercoated a silver/gray color if possible.
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Originally posted by mrcheezle19 View Postany update on these?
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I have a thule roof rack on my ix right now. Personally, I would love a huge sheet of tinted/uv blocking plexiglass that I could fit across the roof to help block the summer sun. I don't know how it would mount, but the idea of having anything providing a solid "layer" over my roof for the summer is appealing.
Keep up the good work!
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Originally posted by CubbyChowder View Post
Thanks, that's an option for sure, I'll have to look into some specialty bits, although I'm slightly weary of most.
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For the wood inserts, I'd recommend teak. Here's the Wikipedia section on its use in boats:
Teak has been used as a boatbuilding material for over 150 years. In addition to relatively high strength, teak is also highly resistant to rot, fungi and mildew. In addition, teak has a relatively low shrinkage ratio, which makes it excellent for applications where it undergoes periodic changes in moisture. Teak has the unusual properties of being both an excellent structural timber for framing, planking, etc., while at the same time being easily worked, unlike some other similar woods such as purpleheart, and finished to a high degree. For this reason, it is also prized for the trim work on boat interiors. Due to the oily nature of the wood, care must be taken to properly prepare the wood before gluing.
When used on boats, teak is also very flexible in the finishes that may be applied. One option is to use no finish at all, in which case the wood will naturally weather to a pleasing silver-grey. The wood may also be oiled with a finishing agent such as linseed or tung oil. This results in a pleasant, somewhat bland finish. Finally, teak may also be varnished for a deep, lustrous glow.
Teak is also used extensively in boat decks, as it is extremely durable and requires very little maintenance. The teak tends to wear in to the softer 'summer' growth bands first, forming a natural 'non-slip' surface. Any sanding is therefore only damaging. Use of modern cleaning compounds, oils or preservatives will shorten the life of the teak, as it contains natural teak-oil a very small distance below the white surface. Wooden boat experts will only wash the teak with salt water, and re-caulk when needed. This cleans the deck, and prevents it from drying out and the wood shrinking. The salt helps it absorb and retain moisture, and prevents any mildew and algal growth. People with poor knowledge often over-maintain the teak, and drastically shorten its life.
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Originally posted by mrcheezle19 View PostJB weld?
Originally posted by E30_Pare View Post
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