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What To Swap In Place of an M10 With Blow - By

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    What To Swap In Place of an M10 With Blow - By

    So, while swapping a throttle body, I noticed a nice coating of oil on top of the TB. It is also in the intake. Basically, I have blow-by. So, what do I do here? I could rebuild the M10, which would bolt right back in with no issues, but then I still have an M10 (which isn't something that I have a problem with, but more power would be nice).

    Option 1 - Rebuild M10

    Option 2 - 24v swap

    Option 3 - M30 Swap

    I have read about these various swaps, but none seem to address M10 cars. Everything I have seen assumes that I have an M20. So, what does r3v recommend? Basically, I want something that is reliable and can be my DD (since the e30 serves that function now).
    IMG_0145 by Jonathan Martin, on Flickr

    #2
    LSx

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      #3
      Turbo M10.

      But seriously, rebuild M10. Swapping in an old engine just delays the inevitable rebuild.

      Might as well keep things simple.
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        #4
        Since it's a DD get an M42, it's the only no fabrication option that can easily be done in a weekend, and will bolt to your current transmission. Or buy another M10...

        ---Will NOT bolt to your current transmission.
        Last edited by roguetoaster; 04-14-2014, 07:43 AM.

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          #5
          I second turbo rebuilt m10. They hold nicely to boost and they're super light; swapped over to FI system of course

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            #6
            Ive never had a motor that didnt have some degree of blowby the way i drive them. If you just noticed it now after pulling the TB maybe just continue driving it as is. Unless youre itching to do something which i totally get
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              #7
              el es.


              Originally posted by blunttech
              Dude this is r3v. 20 bucks gets you a used timing belt or a low mileage head gasket

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                #8
                Id throw in a m42 or another m10 for the sake of being cheap and the easiest to do.


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                  #9
                  remove your crank case hose, plug the hole it goes into, and see if actual smoke is coming out of your valve cover to gauge how bad you're blow-by is. Like Blunt said, a little is normal.

                  or do a leakdown test

                  1991 325iS turbo

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                    #10
                    When I remove the oil cap right after shutting the engine off, I do get smoke out of the crankcase.

                    As for the turbo M10, I don't see that happening. Here in TN, this thing actually has to pass an emissions test. It is performed on emissions only, no visual. What is honestly turning me off to the M10 is the lack of e30-specific M10 parts and knowledge. For example, the r3v solution to any M10 idle problem is "delete the ICV". That's great, if it's 90 degrees everyday. However, when it's 20, I have to stay with it for a few minutes to warm it up.

                    Also, I wouldn't mind having more power. A turbo setup is just more money/time than I'm willing to commit.
                    IMG_0145 by Jonathan Martin, on Flickr

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by KI4UJO View Post
                      As for the turbo M10, I don't see that happening. Here in TN, this thing actually has to pass an emissions test. It is performed on emissions only, no visual.
                      So put a cat on it. Tons of cali guys have turbos and we have to deal with bullshit visual inspections.
                      The first car I ever rode in was an e30

                      Originally posted by Cabriolet
                      Wish you the best and hope you don't remember anything after 10pm.



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                        #12
                        Originally posted by KI4UJO View Post
                        When I remove the oil cap right after shutting the engine off, I do get smoke out of the crankcase.

                        As for the turbo M10, I don't see that happening. Here in TN, this thing actually has to pass an emissions test. It is performed on emissions only, no visual. What is honestly turning me off to the M10 is the lack of e30-specific M10 parts and knowledge. For example, the r3v solution to any M10 idle problem is "delete the ICV". That's great, if it's 90 degrees everyday. However, when it's 20, I have to stay with it for a few minutes to warm it up.

                        Also, I wouldn't mind having more power. A turbo setup is just more money/time than I'm willing to commit.
                        Take the cap off while it is running, and see if considerable smoke comes out.

                        1991 325iS turbo

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
                          Since it's a DD get an M42, it's the only no fabrication option that can easily be done in a weekend, and will bolt to your current transmission. Or buy another M10...
                          That is not true at all.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by KI4UJO View Post
                            I want something that is reliable and can be my DD.
                            M50B25 Non-Vanos, M20, or M30 for ultimate reliability.

                            M30 if gas mileage less important, Uber torque.
                            M20 for uber reliable, slightly better gas mileage
                            M50 for reliable, but better mileage. Engine doesn't sound nearly as good as the other two.

                            Oil film in the intake is normal. Even happens with modern engines.
                            Last edited by TurboJake; 04-13-2014, 10:33 PM.


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                              #15
                              Originally posted by TurboJake View Post
                              M50B25 Non-Vanos, M20, or M30 for ultimate reliability.

                              M30 if gas mileage less important, Uber torque.
                              M20 for uber reliable, slightly better gas mileage
                              M50 for reliable, but better mileage. Engine doesn't sound nearly as good as the other two.

                              Oil film in the intake is normal. Even happens with modern engines.
                              Any of those engines, unless rebuilt, is going to run into a required rebuild in the future. Plus, with the added time and money of swapping them in he's better off rebuilding the engine as it can be done much cheaper and doesn't require any extra effort.

                              If it weren't a daily, I'd say swap, but it seems like the PO can't afford the time to have the car out of commission while he shoehorns a new engine in.
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