Jack stands on factory jack points

[animal]

It really depends where you're located too. I'm from the midwest so using jack points can get you in trouble fast because lots of old cars like e30's have rust.

Now that I live in Cali - I still rarely use jack points - I prefer the subframe since I've seen frame rails get folded, or jack points sink lol.

My main contribution though - is get some hockey pucks. They're cheap, and are strong so when possible I use a hockey puck when jacking - a lot nicer than metal on metal. ESPECIALLY when I'm lazy and jack from the rear diff!

[rcsoundn1]

came back here to post a F/U. My red car, the stands would crush the rockers, the white car, I used the factory jack points and it has been fine for 4mnths on them.

[BLACKCHARM88]

Cut a slot in a piece wood and put it on a jack stand and you can save your rocker panels from being crushed.

That's pretty risky to trust wood like that, man.

[long tall eta]

A hockey puck makes a great jackpad.

I bought a pinch weld jackpad (puck with a slot) similar to this ebay one and it prevents damage on the rockers.

do these fit our cars? the comparability list says no.

[BenDem]

I'm going to give the akg RTAB tool a shot...
http://www.akgmotorsport.com/rtabremove.html

[Aleman]

I'm happy I read this cause I have a crap job a head of me, rear sub frame replacement. I'm assuming its worth just bringing the frame to the shop to install the new bushings and I reinstall after?

I'm doing my rear end bushings later this summer, and I plan to take the trailing arms and subframe to a shop to press out the old & press in the new bushings. Seems like the most headache-free way to go.

[KIRIEIW]

I'm happy I read this cause I have a crap job a head of me, rear sub frame replacement. I'm assuming its worth just bringing the frame to the shop to install the new bushings and I reinstall after?

[squidmaster]

My jack stands have notches in them to fit right over the jack points. Works well for me. I believe I got them from autozone or advance auto parts about a decade ago.

[MC Hammered]

Perfect! Where do you get those?

Hockey pucks are $2.00 and can be found everywhere in Canada.

The jackpad shown in the pic is on ebay.

Those are safe to use on jackstands ? In my minds eye, I'm seeing a not so secure interface between the stand and the puck.

I totally see this working great with a floor jack. I'm going to start hunting now.

I apologize for the reading comprehension fail, the hockey puck/jackpad suggestion was for the floor jack.

[BenDem]

Those are safe to use on jackstands ? In my minds eye, I'm seeing a not so secure interface between the stand and the puck.

I totally see this working great with a floor jack. I'm going to start hunting now.

[Aleman]

A hockey puck makes a great jackpad.

I bought a pinch weld jackpad (puck with a slot) similar to this ebay one and it prevents damage on the rockers.

Perfect! Where do you get those?

[MC Hammered]

A hockey puck makes a great jackpad.

I bought a pinch weld jackpad (puck with a slot) similar to this ebay one and it prevents damage on the rockers.

[TobyB]

Cut a slot in a piece wood and put it on a jack stand and you can save your rocker panels from being crushed.

This. Make it a foot long or more...

t

[BenDem]

I'd say to save some time and effort. Unless they have been changed fairly recently, you can take it as an article of faith that the subframe & trailing arm bushings need to be replaced. The only other source of clunking/thunking in the rear suspension would be the upper shock mounts, sway bar links & bushings, or the differential mount. If, as is many times the case, those parts haven't been replaced in the last 8 years or so they all need to be replaced now.

If the clunking/thunking only occurs when traversing bumps or rough surfaces when at constant speed, the cause will be the suspension. However if it occurs at low speeds with changes in throttle, the cause will be the drive shaft, half shafts, or differential.

I suspect it's something to do with the drivetrain, but while I'm under there, I'm going to check the bushings as well, just to be sure.

I've had the car a couple of months, and had a PPI done, and supposedly all the above checked out. Yet... Thunk.

[jlevie]

I'm not removing it -- yet. I'm hunting down the sources of some clunking / thunking, and I want to inspect the bushings in the rear.

I'd say to save some time and effort. Unless they have been changed fairly recently, you can take it as an article of faith that the subframe & trailing arm bushings need to be replaced. The only other source of clunking/thunking in the rear suspension would be the upper shock mounts, sway bar links & bushings, or the differential mount. If, as is many times the case, those parts haven't been replaced in the last 8 years or so they all need to be replaced now.

If the clunking/thunking only occurs when traversing bumps or rough surfaces when at constant speed, the cause will be the suspension. However if it occurs at low speeds with changes in throttle, the cause will be the drive shaft, half shafts, or differential.