Put an M10 in it?
							
						
					Ok boys...the R3v way or the right way? :)
				
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 Anyone more familiar with taking the engine out with the front subframe underneath the car? It seems like it's a lot easier...Comment
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 I've done mine with the tranny still installed - I know its not the best method, but when you have a lift, it eliminates a few tasks if you're going to separate them anyway.Originally posted by BimmerfanatikAnyone more familiar with taking the engine out with the front subframe underneath the car? It seems like it's a lot easier...Driving is the only way to go faster....Comment
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 You can definitely do it that way, but I wouldn't recommend it- thats how I pulled the motor/trans out of the white car. You need to be very careful to disconnect everything-- calipers, speed sensors, steering shaft, etc. It works great if you have a lift and a sturdy, rolling bench, but it would suck ass trying to do it on the ground.
 
 I've done it both ways quite a few times and I much prefer pulling it out from the top with the tranny attached. Don't do it the Jarvis way though, leave the harness attached to the engine and just disconnect the power, grounds, engine/body plug, and snake the ecu connector through the firewall.'91 318is
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 Yes, I wouldn't try this without a lift...Originally posted by BrewIt works great if you have a lift and a sturdy, rolling bench, but it would suck ass trying to do it on the ground.Driving is the only way to go faster....Comment
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 Argh.
 
 FINE, I'll rent a hoist.
 
 Start to finish, what's a good time estimate? Pull old motor/tranny, pull SETA motor/tranny, separate trannies from both motors, install manual tranny to seta, drop into my car?Comment
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 What's the deal with the intake manifold? Is that SETA specific? What harness am I using - the one on the SETA now or the one from the i motor? I noticed the plug wires on the SETA don't have the sensor wire on the #6 wire - which to use?
 
 So freakin confused. The SETA is half eta, half i, and it's hard to pick which parts are right.
 
 Oh, and ECU - my chipped 173 or the stock SETA?Comment
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 Although it will kill a bit of the lower end, I'd probably suggest you use the "i" intake and ecu. This will make a later change cylinder head easier. The "i" harness will work perfect if you're using the "i" intake, tb, afm etc. That brings up one thing though, you'll need new intake gaskets. I have a set at home if you need them - just let me know. Never thought of that when we went through all the parts - sorry.Originally posted by BimmerfanatikWhat's the deal with the intake manifold? Is that SETA specific? What harness am I using - the one on the SETA now or the one from the i motor? I noticed the plug wires on the SETA don't have the sensor wire on the #6 wire - which to use?
 
 So freakin confused. The SETA is half eta, half i, and it's hard to pick which parts are right.
 
 Oh, and ECU - my chipped 173 or the stock SETA?Driving is the only way to go faster....Comment
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 Well, let's keep in mind over the next month or two I'll be building a head with an aftermarket cam to swap in - so perhaps I should save the i manifold, tb, and harness for when I do that?
 
 2 full days - woot. Who's got some free time?? :) I'd LOVE to get this done by Sat evening, so I can bring it to Devens for Sunday to meet Alex.Comment
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 Including the ECU or no?Originally posted by BrewRealistically, two FULL days at least if you're doing it by yourself.
 
 Use everything from the SETA.Comment
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 qtpyeOriginally posted by BrewI said everything, or did I stutter? :)
 
 when i swap the new head on (aftermarket cam, rebuilt, dual springs, etc) can I/should I swap the harness, intake mani, tb, ecu?
 
 kthxbye
 
 ps - where the fuck can I get molybdenum disulfide (Molykote Longterm 2) grease for my shaftComment
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 Shamoo's vagina.Originally posted by Bimmerfanatikps - where the fuck can I get molybdenum disulfide (Molykote Longterm 2) grease for my shaftComment


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