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Ok boys...the R3v way or the right way? :)

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    Ok boys...the R3v way or the right way? :)

    I'll set the stage.

    Since my ownership of the 87 325i vert, it's had a moderate oil leak from somewhere in the engine bay - I was topping off about 2 quarts every two weeks. In my sheer lack of time, I just haven't had the chance to chase down the culprit - and everything's pretty wet down there, so finding it is easier said than done. Performance was more than adequate, so I didn't think much of it. Proves me the idiot, eh?

    Anyways. Heading down the highway today, doing roughly 45-50, I changed lanes and shifted to 3rd from 4th. I heard a loud pop and then the engine got real loud. Rough idle, smoke everywhere. I quickly pull over and realize the car is still running. Odd. I pop the hood but realize I'm in harm's way with no shoulder and almost on an onramp. So I get back in and turn the key and she starts right up. I take it easy and drive to the next exit, smoke billowing from behind, and luckily made it to my buddy's Meineke. I parked it and shut it off, and watched what was left of my oil - at least 3 quarts - dribble to the pavement underneath it and make a lovely puddle in his lot.

    We push it onto the lift and get under it. Oil EVERYWHERE. Everything is drenched - even the midpipe and catback got some of it. We find a lovely hole near the motor mount in the block. T-riffic.

    This is my main and only mode of transportation. I have a full time job that I have to get to. I have a yard full of cars, but not really any reliable drivetrain - aside from an e drivetrain, but again, high mileage, etc.

    Here are my choices.

    1) Pull the existing block and head, grab the high mileage i block in my yard and cross my fingers

    2) Put an entire e motor in with necessary components

    3) Source an i bottom end locally and use that with my head

    4) yank the super eta engine from my 88 and use that

    5) yank the super eta engine from my 88, pull the pistons, drop them off with an e block and get the bottom end put together

    6) source an entire i engine and put it in for now, figure out what's going on with my engine later

    Here's what I have for parts:

    -My i motor: 137K miles, head should be ok, block clearly no good, internals questionable.

    -ETA motor from 85 burgundrot car: still intact, newish clutch and flex plate, 200K miles on it

    -ETA bottom end from 85 euro car (not euro pistons): 285K on it, but ran well.

    -87 ETA engine (still in car): 160K, bad t-belt, so maybe ok bottom end, no good top end most likely.

    -86 ETA engine (still in car): 230K, runs fine, needs pan (drain plug was stripped when I got it)

    -88 Super ETA engine (still in car): 200K, super quiet, ran very well, very strong.

    I'd love to hear suggestions. What I want is a good->better solution for low->medium costs.

    Thanks guys.

    #2
    Go for originality. Pull a full eta motor and stick it in. Only 325eC on the planet!

    But seriously, as long as you're rebuilding your engine might as well go for a cheap 2.7i w/ the seta pistons.

    '88 325is
    VP UT of Austin Autoholics
    BMWCCA 380364

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Jordan325iC
      Go for originality. Pull a full eta motor and stick it in. Only 325eC on the planet!

      But seriously, as long as you're rebuilding your engine might as well go for a cheap 2.7i w/ the seta pistons.

      lol - back when I was an eta guy, I always thought up being the first 325eC guy ;) Gotta love that torque...

      But, I'm really heading towards the 2.7 stroker. If it's not TOO much cash, I'm going for it.

      How much is it to get a bottom end put together usually? If I bring the eta bottom end and the super eta pistons, how much to ring and assemble?

      Comment


        #4
        Just buy my car!!!!11one

        I'm driving this now:



        Fuck swapping to an E motor, more hassle than good.

        Source a good i motor.
        use a super E bottom end thats known to be good (or whole engine)

        simplicity, simplicity, simplicity.
        Below the radar...

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by UNHCLL
          Just buy my car!!!!11one

          I'm driving this now:



          Fuck swapping to an E motor, more hassle than good.

          Source a good i motor.
          use a super E bottom end thats known to be good (or whole engine)

          simplicity, simplicity, simplicity.
          What are you doing driving that???? And it looks painted...

          What happened to your car?

          Comment


            #6
            Definitely avoid fucking around with assembling engines. Parts alone will make the average r3v'er weep and cut himself while listening to Taking Back Sunday. Never mind machine shop costs.

            You'll need new bearings, new rod stretch bolts, new block gasket set, probably new rings. Ya know how much ONE stretch bolt costs? Right around $4.50. You need 12. It's gonna be like $300-400 to get a bottom end assembled at a machine shop. Not to mention, how are you gonna get back and forth to work when the shop is machining your engine to perfection?

            Anyway, I like idea #4. 327eC. That is fuct in principle and concept alone, but at least you can swap to an i head later, after you break apart your existing 137 k motor to confirm the head is good.

            Anyway, does your 87 have a later style C101? Because adapting a 19 pin early C101 to the later C101 doesn't sound like that much fun. Yeah, it'll probably take like an hour, but who wants to F around with sleeping dogs?

            Originally posted by whysimon
            WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

            Comment


              #7
              I am NOT reading all that but:

              right way.
              Im now E30less.
              sigpic

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Bimmerfanatik
                What are you doing driving that????
                clearly, he's burning up fossil fuels at an alarming clip in comparison to the trusty ole M20!

                Originally posted by whysimon
                WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Now I've never built an engine, but I once toyed around with the idea of a 2.7i sourced from s-eta parts. I was under the impression that you could pull off a cheap 2.7i by just putting an i head on an eta/s-eta block w/ s-eta pistons. Of course a full rebuild would be prefered, but couldn't you just do it the "r3v way", put your trust in god, and not bother rebuilding the bottom end?

                  '88 325is
                  VP UT of Austin Autoholics
                  BMWCCA 380364

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by FredK
                    Definitely avoid fucking around with assembling engines. Parts alone will make the average r3v'er weep and cut himself while listening to Taking Back Sunday. Never mind machine shop costs.

                    You'll need new bearings, new rod stretch bolts, new block gasket set, probably new rings. Ya know how much ONE stretch bolt costs? Right around $4.50. You need 12. It's gonna be like $300-400 to get a bottom end assembled at a machine shop. Not to mention, how are you gonna get back and forth to work when the shop is machining your engine to perfection?

                    Anyway, I like idea #4. 327eC. That is fuct in principle and concept alone, but at least you can swap to an i head later, after you break apart your existing 137 k motor to confirm the head is good.

                    Anyway, does your 87 have a later style C101? Because adapting a 19 pin early C101 to the later C101 doesn't sound like that much fun. Yeah, it'll probably take like an hour, but who wants to F around with sleeping dogs?
                    Uhhhhh...$300-400 to get a bottom end assembled? With or without parts? That's a fair price. I'll have a rebuilt bottom end - that'll last at a bare minimum another 100k miles. Getting back and forth to work is an issue - but I can make it a couple weeks at most.

                    I have the later C101. I've got to get into the fuse box and find my blower issue as it is. Maybe a few weeks down time and around a grand and I can be out of this in real good shape...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Scotty heres my advice. Get that super eta out of the black car. Ive heard your engine removal stories, I think you can do it fast enough. Pray to god your I head is still good and put em together. Im not sure on the ecu's and stuff but the super eta comes with an I wiring harness. 2.7i for the win buddy, Ill be home by the weekend if you need a hand.
                      Back to my roots

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by FifeDog236
                        Scotty heres my advice. Get that super eta out of the black car. Ive heard your engine removal stories, I think you can do it fast enough. Pray to god your I head is still good and put em together. Im not sure on the ecu's and stuff but the super eta comes with an I wiring harness. 2.7i for the win buddy, Ill be home by the weekend if you need a hand.
                        I'll take you up on the offer - looks like we're wrenching this weekend :)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          $300-400 in labor. That's after a $60-80 thermal clean of the block, $100 to hone the cylinders if necessary. Maybe micropolish the crank for around $40-60.

                          Parts will run another few hundred bucks.

                          Bearings, around $100 for both rod and mains, $50 for the rod bolts, bottom end gasket set probably around $50, $120 or so for new rings.

                          Not ridiculous I guess. For someone with a full time job, it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected expense and generally, a pain in the balls.

                          Good luck whichever way you go!

                          Originally posted by whysimon
                          WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by FredK
                            $300-400 in labor. That's after a $60-80 thermal clean of the block, $100 to hone the cylinders if necessary. Maybe micropolish the crank for around $40-60.

                            Parts will run another few hundred bucks.

                            Bearings, around $100 for both rod and mains, $50 for the rod bolts, bottom end gasket set probably around $50, $120 or so for new rings.

                            Not ridiculous I guess. For someone with a full time job, it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected expense and generally, a pain in the balls.

                            Good luck whichever way you go!
                            I've got a well paying full time job - so I can afford to spend a couple bucks, as this is my only means of getting to and from that full time job :)

                            If I can assemble a rebuilt bottom end for around $500-600, I'm doing it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              My first response based on the state of the super eta bottom end and the "i" head is to just put the two together with an 'i' harness-ecu and call it a day. Very low cost...

                              Let me think a little more and I'll get back to you. I can get you a good deal on the gasket sets - I'll let you know what they're going to run.

                              Where are you located anyway?

                              I did my own bottom end but wouldn't feel comfortable doing someone elses. In terms of other components, I have an "i" crank, rods, and pistons, a block, and 3 heads and various valve train components if you need something used, just let me know - but it looks like you're yard has what you need.

                              Daniel
                              Driving is the only way to go faster....

                              Comment

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