If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
My first response based on the state of the super eta bottom end and the "i" head is to just put the two together with an 'i' harness-ecu and call it a day. Very low cost...
Let me think a little more and I'll get back to you. I can get you a good deal on the gasket sets - I'll let you know what they're going to run.
Where are you located anyway?
I did my own bottom end but wouldn't feel comfortable doing someone elses. In terms of other components, I have an "i" crank, rods, and pistons, a block, and 3 heads and various valve train components if you need something used, just let me know - but it looks like you're yard has what you need.
Daniel
Dan - I'm in Amesbury, MA - probably an hour from you. Let me know about the parts - I pm'ed you as well.
Is the super ETA bottom end the same as the ETA bottom end, only with different pistons? If that's the case, I'll take my chances and put my head on the super ETA bottom end...
Don't mess with an M20 bottom end unless you have to. They are known for being strong, I've pulled a couple apart with 200k+ on them with cylinder crosshatch marks still visible and no groove at the top of the stroke!
If the super eta engine you have runs well- use that for sure. Depending on your time frame and capability, budget, etc- you could either just stick the complete super eta engine in the car and run it OR get the "i" head checked out from your bad engine and use it on the super eta bottom end after "freshening" it a bit (valve stem seals, valve job, whatever else needs to be done) OR something in between.
Besides any necessary machine work, and procuring new parts, most- if not all- of this could be done in a weekend.
Don't mess with an M20 bottom end unless you have to. They are known for being strong, I've pulled a couple apart with 200k+ on them with cylinder crosshatch marks still visible and no groove at the top of the stroke!
If the super eta engine you have runs well- use that for sure. Depending on your time frame and capability, budget, etc- you could either just stick the complete super eta engine in the car and run it OR get the "i" head checked out from your bad engine and use it on the super eta bottom end after "freshening" it a bit (valve stem seals, valve job, whatever else needs to be done) OR something in between.
Besides any necessary machine work, and procuring new parts, most- if not all- of this could be done in a weekend.
Bret.
I was under the impression the bottom ends were pretty strong too - until mine greneded.
Well that answers that. What about one or the other of the parts cabbys?
Damn, Scotty, I am sorry to hear about this.
One parts cabby has yet to arrive.
The other has no drivetrain.
:)
I am too - it was running SO well - aside from the leakage. I wonder what happened. I mean, when that low oil light comes on in the check panel, I fill it. I always carry oil with me. So it's not like I starved the thing. It wasn't too high on the miles either.
Meh - it's a 20 year old car - shit happens. All the more reason to go stroker.
cars, cars, cars everywhere, and not one that drives.
They're parts cars, Heeter. That's their job. If they were running cars, they'd be sold - like Dave's car, the blue 87es, the silver 91 318i, jflower's 91 318i, etc.
I have 5 or 6 acres of land, a barn, and no reason not to collect as many parts and spares as I can afford. It's helped me and lots of other e30 owners stay on the road.
Now, if they were all "project" cars - then I'd be a flaming loser.
Comment