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I think I found my e30. Need a gut check & input

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    I think I found my e30. Need a gut check & input

    Hi all-
    I think I finally found the e30 I want to buy! I've been searching for my e30 since I got rid of my e46. I've been pretty picky about what I'm looking for and I think I've found the car. Here's the Craigslist post. I went to go see it yesterday as it's only about an hour away.
    Here's an imgur album of the photos I took.

    The guy who is selling it is an German car mechanic/sales guy - lots of VWs, Audis and BMWs at his shop. He bought the car about a year and a half ago from one of his customers who was getting a bit older and wanted something more comfortable. He's done a good amount of work on it - auto to 5sp swap, various sensors, brakes all around, wheel bearings... really seems to know his stuff and knows the car well. There are two existing mechanical issues:
    1. Slow oil leak. It appears to be coming from the oil pan gasket. Pretty simple fix.
    2. Drivetrain vibration that seems to be coming from the driveshaft. He fessed right up to it, wasn't trying to hide it. I wonder if it was from the 5sp swap where he had to replace the driveshaft with the manual specific one. From what I understand, the driveshaft is two-piece and needs to go together very specifically. If it doesn't, it can be unbalanced. I figure at the worst I'm looking at a driveshaft replacement on that one. Perhaps center support bearing? Guibo?

    Otherwise, it is in really good mechanical shape. Needs a blower motor too.

    Rust: Yes, it's got some rust. I've come to the conclusion that to get the car with the features I want I'm going to have to give on something and it's likely on the rust. On the upside the worst of it is at the bottom of the forward fenders right behind the wheels. There's a little bit on each jackpad there as well. No rust in the battery tray, very minimal on the trunk lights, some surface rust on the rear valence.

    Overall body condition is really good otherwise. Nicks here and there - to be expected for the age - but nothing major. They haven't rusted through or anything and you can see an example of one on the picture of the headlight with the hood open.

    That being said, here would be my plan for the car and where my questions lay:

    1. Resolve mechanical issues - Oil leak and driveline vibration. New set of tires (for some reason it has winter tires on the front only).

    2. Work over the winter on body issues. I don't know auto body, but I'd like to learn and would like to be able to sand, fill, and prime. I've done lots of moderate work on cars and it doesn't scare me. I'd leave the final color to the experts. Here's my question: I assume I should replace both front fenders. That's easy enough. Given the hood condition, should I just replace that as well? I'm not concerned with body panel VINs matching. My long term thought (spring/summer?) would be to get it to a point (sanded, filled, primed) to where I can get it re-sprayed and looking really top notch. Bring it back to life.

    3. Interior. Ideally, I'd like to swap the interior to tan. It would get me the color I'm really after and resolve the seat condition at the same time.

    Thoughts?? The guy is asking $4600. I'm looking at this as a project and to bring it pretty well back to restored. Make it a really nice daily driver should I want to drive it every day. (I have a work provided DD right now.)

    #2
    i would not pay more than 2500 for that
    sigpic

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      #3
      I agree. Mostly due to the rust issues. I'd be much more happy to hear the battery box is rusted out and the rest of the car is clean. The rust you describe is the tip of the iceberg. Even in good condition the car would not be worth $4600. Keep looking. And remember that the search is half the fun.
      Kurt V
      1991 318is

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        #4
        Originally posted by vbfronkis View Post
        2. Work over the winter on body issues. I don't know auto body, but I'd like to learn and would like to be able to sand, fill, and prime. I've done lots of moderate work on cars and it doesn't scare me. I'd leave the final color to the experts. Here's my question: I assume I should replace both front fenders. That's easy enough. Given the hood condition, should I just replace that as well? I'm not concerned with body panel VINs matching. My long term thought (spring/summer?) would be to get it to a point (sanded, filled, primed) to where I can get it re-sprayed and looking really top notch. Bring it back to life.
        If you're looking at this car for long term ownership you will want to get the rust taken care of, which can be a big project. Hopefully you realize this will involve more than just some sanding and body filler; there is plenty of cutting and welding in your future as I expect there's plenty of rust you can't see
        My Feedback

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          #5
          If your going to spend that money fly somewhere where they do not salt the roads and drive it home.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Polaris15 View Post
            If your going to spend that money fly somewhere where they do not salt the roads and drive it home.
            Yup.

            I've owned 6 E30s. The best ones were the ones not exposed to New England. The amount of heartache you will bypass by not getting a car from here is really incalculable.

            If you want to get a rusty car, be sure it is inexpensive. Get your feet wet, but don't dump $4K into it, because in the end, it'll be worth exactly the same amount of money give or take.

            A $4500 car from the south will be rust free relatively speaking and will be a superior platform to start from.

            Originally posted by whysimon
            WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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              #7
              Originally posted by Polaris15 View Post
              If your going to spend that money fly somewhere where they do not salt the roads and drive it home.

              That is exactly what I have done in the past.

              The huge bonus is that you also get to have a road trip in your new toy right away :)

              Dan

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                #8
                Yeah I've definitely played with doing a road trip home.

                Comment


                  #9
                  So, possibly a piece of info that I left out that may sway yay or neigh on the rust situation is that it was originally a Maryland car. It has only been in New England for the last 5 years.

                  Does that change anyone's opinion on potential rust?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You can buy yourself a solid E30 in California and have it shipped out there for just as much.

                    Do that.

                    1991 BMW 318i (Old Shell RIP, Now Being Re-shelled & Reborn)
                    1983 Peugeot 505 STI
                    1992 Volvo 240 Wagon
                    2009 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by vbfronkis View Post
                      So, possibly a piece of info that I left out that may sway yay or neigh on the rust situation is that it was originally a Maryland car. It has only been in New England for the last 5 years.

                      Does that change anyone's opinion on potential rust?
                      Rust is rust, doesn't matter where it came from. You're just trying to talk yourself into buying it. Just say no. We aren't talking about potential rust. There is plenty of actual rust already eating away the car. Plenty of nice E30s out there for $4500.
                      Kurt V
                      1991 318is

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                        #12
                        That car isn't worth half of what he's asking, and is going to require quite a bit of work... The oil pan gasket, from experience, I can tell you is easier to replace with the motor pulled (you will regret trying to replace it with the motor in the car; Ask me how I know).

                        As for the driveshaft wobble, if it's what I think it is, the odds are that he used a used driveshaft when he did the swap, and the CV(s) are on their way out. These driveshafts wll clunk when you depress the clutch pedal, and can be driven for many thousands of miles in that condition, it's just that once they actually become too bad to drive with, the car will start to shudder horribly and become gutless under power. The ideal solution is to get a new production driveshaft with a serviceable CV (as all E30s will inevitably have this problem one day).

                        Looks like the car has potential, but also the potential to be a huge headache. It's probably worth a lot closer to $2k...

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                          #13
                          $4600? Is he fucking joking? It looks like it has a lot of rust, and I would have a hard time paying more than 1500 for it.

                          Get a car from California. Or Arizona. Or Texas. Or New Mexico. Or anywhere else that isn't New England.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yeah I know he's nuts on $4600 but I was thinking like $3k. At any rate, I'm going to pass. I'll start a look in the west/southwest. Thankfully my work is HQ'd in the Bay Area so I may have a few opportunities to get out there on work's dime.

                            Thanks!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              carolinas/georgia/mississippi/alabama/lousiana are probably better places to look. occasionally, good ones come up here in texas too. florida has some potential but there is lots of salt air there.

                              in the pacific western side of the country, you will pay the special e30 tax as these cars cost (a lot) more in that region. your drive would be 3x further too.
                              sigpic
                              Gigitty Gigitty!!!!

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