Why you need a torque wrench

[e30onBBSs]

Got both sides ready for new hubs bearings pads studs!

[e30onBBSs]

new hubs/bearings come with new races, though that'd make for an interesting conversation at the parts store

Yea at first I didn't know the race was a small piece, I was like why do they want me to remove that whole thing? Then I watched a video and it's a small circle and I was like oooooooh!

And it's important to remove because if I put the new one on it would hit the old race and basically be a spacer that maybe wouldn't even allow for the axle nut to be threaded. I would have been like yea shit something is wrong baha

[jalopi]

new hubs/bearings come with new races, though that'd make for an interesting conversation at the parts store

[e30onBBSs]

Alright I just read the bentley section on it and I am going to rent a puller once I have the parts. Thank you guys for all the help! I'm going to be away for three weeks and hopefully I will be able to drive it for a couple days beforehand!

[e30onBBSs]

So I need a new race as well? Thanks for the info!

[jalopi]

if the bearing was bad you definitely want the old race off. basically both the balls inside the hub and the thing stuck onto your spindle are wear items - if you put a new bearing on the old, stuck on race in lieu of the new race, and the old race was irregularly worn, the new balls in the bearing would fail prematurely and you'd need to do the job all over again

[Axxe]

You have to get that race off. Best way is to cut a thin slice with a small cutoff disc, about halfway through staying away from the stub axle. Then hit it with a good steep chisel and a good whack from a hammer and it should split the race the rest of the way through and then it will slide right off.

[e30onBBSs]

I'm going to do the bearings. I pulled one off, and the "race" is still there. Why is it bad? I took off the part that's going to be replaced?

[Aleksey]

Just finished reading the first page, might already be wrong but that it's not 'easy' to get out type of bolt and it does not mean that the guy over stressed it.

I sheared bolts like this after shop forgot to tighten then and wheel forcefully removed the head as it almost broke loose. Also it could be an attempt at removal of a wheel lock with stripped head.

If it's latter that metal is going to give you hard time; the best thing I found is BOSCH hammer drill. Tap it them let the beast break the shit out of that bolt.

You might try welding since the wheel is off but you going to have to weld it to handle good amount of PSI. Another option is to dremel it deep in - pattern (cutting the hub in process) and getting it out that way. That thread will still be usable but not 100%.

[AndrewBird]

You can score old wrench sets off eBay for cheap usually. I prefer Proto brand stuff. They are more of an industrial tool company than an automotive one and make some really nice stuff.

[15Michaeljoseph]

garage sales, estate sales, antique rummage shops, pawn shops.... they're out there haha. I mean its not like they're going to do the job so much any differently than, say, the kobalt wrenches i bought at lowes, but there's definately a difference in build quality and badass-ness. It's all a preference.


--Mike

[e30onBBSs]

Hmm I believe you guys but how hard and how expensive is it to find them?

[15Michaeljoseph]

truth on that! I prefer using the tools out of grandpa's toolbox (machine shop worker circa 1950's) over anything i've bought. extra extra sturdy.


--Mike

[GDA]

They were made with better quality steel back then and tended to be overbuilt.

Compare (in your hands) a 60s vintage Snap On 3/4 drive breaker bar to some new HF 3/4 breaker bar and then report back on which one you think will hold up better.

Just my .02

[e30onBBSs]

if you search in the members rides section, you should find my 87 325is... she's pretty nice hahaha. That being said I need all kinds of bushings and rear shocks and front struts and new rear brake lines (old ones rusting kinda bad).... BUT, its a work in progress, and at least she looks minty. Not to act full of it or anything but I'd probably say it's a better than average MA car, considering its my all season daily, and has been through 28 winters. hell. well taken care of NE cars are usually fine untill you look at the underside anyway hahaha. I'd love to someday do a full out balls down restoration, but whatever. maybe when I'm a millionaire right?


--Mike

Hahaha yea Mike do it! I will find your thread sometime when I get the chance. I am in a way happy my car is so clapped out because a big part of the reason I bought it is because I wanted a car to learn on, and one that I would be happy to drive throughout the whole journey! Since it's rusty here and there one day I'm going to learn to weld etc.

Cheap tools do that to you.

Get a 24 inch 1/2 drive breaker bar from the 70s - truck brand. Also get a old 50s or 60s vintage 3/4 drive ratchet and breaker bar. Those will pay for themselves tenfold when you encounter crap like this. Bring out the big boy and off it comes.

What's better about old tools? I'm going to get a new one but from your experience why do you favor old ones?