Why you need a torque wrench

[e30onBBSs]

Why you need a torque wrench

Actually, you might be able to solder a nut onto the stud. It might be strong enough to get it free. Just make sure you clean the stud VERY well (no rust) and get everything hot enough that the stud melts the solder, NOT the torch.

Hmm I may give this a shot! Tomorrow morning I'm just going to sit there with the torch for a while and see if it budges. Last night I noticed that the grease on the axle nut was melting, should I get some grease and grease it up after I (hopefully) get the threads out?

[AndrewBird]

the MAP bottle you got from HD will certainly get things hot enough for fusion, just as long as the material's lead, tin or some other low melt temperature metal ;)

Actually, you might be able to solder a nut onto the stud. It might be strong enough to get it free. Just make sure you clean the stud VERY well (no rust) and get everything hot enough that the stud melts the solder, NOT the torch.

[DrJosh]

So you have a bare hub with a broken lug bolt and a stripped rotor screw? You can use vice grips to grip the rotor screw. Use a second set of vice grips to tighten the first set of vice grips onto the bolt. That should do it. I had to use that method once after I drilled off the head of a rotor screw.

Or just pull the hub and replace with new. Once you have the brakes disassembled it takes a whopping ten minutes to pull the hub with a gear puller and replace.

[e30onBBSs]

You need to make a build thread....most of everything you post can be in one haha.

I have one and sometimes these things just snowball and I'm like uh should I start a new thread or just leave it?

[F34R]

You need to make a build thread....most of everything you post can be in one haha.

[jalopi]

50/50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid is the best penetrating oil

x2, just make sure to shake your DIY spray bottle GOOD before you use the stuff each time


the MAP bottle you got from HD will certainly get things hot enough for fusion, just as long as the material's lead, tin or some other low melt temperature metal ;)

[e30onBBSs]

Thanks AndrewBird! Will give it the flames of hatred for a long time today and see whatsup! Might have time to get a set of those before work too..

[AndrewBird]

50/50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid is the best penetrating oil. Popular mechanics did a test and this combo worked better than every other penetrating oil on the market, including PB Blaster and the Liquid Wrench you bought.

Try turning the stud while it is still hot. Heat it up red hot and give her hell. Should come out then. If you can't get the stud to change color, you aren't getting it hot enough. A propane torch won't get it hot enough and a MAP gas torch probably won't either, but it might.

This style extractor is probably your best bet for turning it. Sears sells them.

[e30onBBSs]

odds of JB weld working are pretty slim, the stuff is more like a high temp/heavy duty super glue. it might be OK for "fixing" something like a shovel but there's no replacement for melting two metals together.

maybe look into getting a hobart handler?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FVgYHwodXm4AVQ

i've got one and it's served me pretty well for a while now. only thing it doesn't do is aluminum and steel over (well realistically over anyway) 1/4".

you'd be shocked at the amount of shit you can make/repair/do with a welder, acetylene torch, drill press and a 20-ton harbor freight press.

One day within the next couple years I plan on buying a welder. I want the skills! But right now I would rather just spend the $80 for new hub and bearing. I just want to drive this baby! Is the MAPP gas torch I got hot enough to fuse anything?

I highly doubt JB weld would work, even if the parts were immaculately clean.

I was just reading up and others said the same exact thing. Thanks Varg!

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Anyone got any other ideas? Get everything else fixed up and drive it to a shop on 3 lugs to remove it?

[varg]

Would JB weld or whatever that stuff is callef work? I don't know anyone with a welder unfortunately! I will try to flatten the edges right now. Thanks for the advice!

I highly doubt JB weld would work, even if the parts were immaculately clean.

[jalopi]

odds of JB weld working are pretty slim, the stuff is more like a high temp/heavy duty super glue. it might be OK for "fixing" something like a shovel but there's no replacement for melting two metals together.

maybe look into getting a hobart handler?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FVgYHwodXm4AVQ

i've got one and it's served me pretty well for a while now. only thing it doesn't do is aluminum and steel over (well realistically over anyway) 1/4".

you'd be shocked at the amount of shit you can make/repair/do with a welder, acetylene torch, drill press and a 20-ton harbor freight press.

[e30onBBSs]

Heat and impact are the magic formula for removing that stuff. If the internal hex screw is stripped you can't do anything but drill it out, but you said the rotor is off? Do you have a welder or know someone who does? The ideal solution is to weld a nut to that broken lug bolt, that should be enough for you to be able to get it out. If not, your best bet is to grind some flat spots on it, get it really hot, and try to work a socket on there, or use a pipe wrench/flat jaw vice grips. You don't want to have to drill that big sucker out, not going to be fun to do with a hand drill and the bit to do it will be $$.

Would JB weld or whatever that stuff is callef work? I don't know anyone with a welder unfortunately! I will try to flatten the edges right now. Thanks for the advice!

[varg]

Heat and impact are the magic formula for removing that stuff. If the internal hex screw is stripped you can't do anything but drill it out, but you said the rotor is off? Do you have a welder or know someone who does? The ideal solution is to weld a nut to that broken lug bolt, that should be enough for you to be able to get it out. If not, your best bet is to grind some flat spots on it, get it really hot, and try to work a socket on there, or use a pipe wrench/flat jaw vice grips. You don't want to have to drill that big sucker out, not going to be fun to do with a hand drill and the bit to do it will be $$.

[e30onBBSs]

Why you need a torque wrench

Just got a torch and have hit the lug thread like 4 times with a short wait in between. It doesn't seem like it's going to budge.

What to do from here? Wheel bearings/ hub? Just put in another lug and attached my breaker bar then angled that so it was on the ground, then I stood on the vice grips and the grips always slip! What a PITA. Any other suggestions? Does this mean wheel bearing and hub?

Just went at it again, and something inside the hub started to move before the lug.. It made a loud creeking noise. This sucker is really in there. Could that noise have unsettled something inside that could be trouble? I am probably just going to remove everything on the other side too and see if that side is good so I know what parts I need. then do the hub and bearing on this side. Also need to do the timing belt because who knows when that was last done.. I can relate to PO problems now!

[jalopi]

oh, that... fuck those little screws dude, they're unnecessary, you don't need them. they're really only there to simplify assembly at the factory

if you convert to wheel studs in the future (which i highly recommend) it'll be even less of an issue when you take the wheels off the car