My car runs but will not start. The electric starter cranks but the motor does not turn over. It will run but you have to pop the clutch to get it running. When running it runs ok but surges a little. Anybody have a clue whats wrong? It was starting with the starter just fine then nothing.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Car will run but not start (with starter, have to run start it) Searched
Collapse
X
-
sounds like the battery: : 1984 318i : : PNW E30 Crew : : Sold!!
Now becoming the R3vlimited Pro3 car
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=93780
Comment
-
Most cars will start and die, Mine wont start but runs strong
My battery was low but I hooked up a jumper box. The reason I dont think it is the battery is because I have had a dead battery before and have been able to get it started with no problem using a jumper. Even when the battery is very low and I have no outside jumper it will start. The motor is cranking very strong but it just wont turn over. You barely have to get it going and pop the clutch in second and it will fire right up, but try the key and it just cranks with no signs of life???
Comment
-
Originally posted by browntownalternator? just go down to napa or autozone and have them hook up their gizmos in the parking lot for free and we can put that possibility to rest.
Comment
-
Originally posted by FanzottiI think I can check that by disconnecting the battery when it's running? If it runs with no battery connected the alternator should be fine?....right? Would rather not cruise the car around town if I didn't have to. It is currently Sprayed with primer and in pieces..no windows etc. I am ready to spray the base coat. Plus I dont feel like leaving the house and it breaking down somewhere. Thanks
That will either fry the ECU or kill the alternator due to load.
Or you'll get lucky.
You're better off getting a multimeter and reading the voltage off the battery while the car is running - should read between 13.4 and 14 v.- Sean Hayes
Comment
-
Wacky idea... Maybe a fault in the ignition cylinder where it doesn't leave the "run" connection closed when it's turned to the "start" position? If turning the key lets the starter crank nice and fast but the engine doesn't catch, but then you can push start it just fine makes me think that something's going wrong when the key is in the start position.
Comment
-
Originally posted by SeanNo.
That will either fry the ECU or kill the alternator due to load.
Or you'll get lucky.
You're better off getting a multimeter and reading the voltage off the battery while the car is running - should read between 13.4 and 14 v.
By the way i am almost positive it is the battery. Due everyone a favor and put a new battery in your car instead of getting up every morning looking forward to pushing your car down the street. Been there not fun. Check the voltage of the battery after turning your car off. 10.35V to 10.65V could mean you have a Shorted Cell. If you don't have the money i'm hoping you have a friend that could lend you a battery to test out. The batterys main purpose is to start a car and act as a dampener from the alternator output therefor being able to run but not be able to start your car.
There's my Two Cents. Hope it helps
-Trejo-
Comment
-
Originally posted by TresE30Agreed^ If you want more problems do it your way but you obviously do not know what you are doing and will not have anyone who does know what they are doing look at it.
C
Originally posted by FanzottiWould rather not cruise the car around town if I didn't have to. It is currently Sprayed with primer and in pieces..no windows etc. I am ready to spray the base coat. Plus I dont feel like leaving the house and it breaking down somewhere. Thanks
Originally posted by TresE30-By the way i am almost positive it is the battery. Due everyone a favor and put a new battery in your car instead of getting up every morning looking forward to pushing your car down the street. Been there not fun.
C
Comment
Comment