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polyurethane motor mount experience, why check your mounts??

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    #16
    Appreciate your not wanting to bash on anybody but .....

    Seeing as how I made it my prerogative to fix old motor mount issues at IE there's no harm in it now. In short, I have not seen a single failure of the updated design released about two and a half years ago (outside of QC that is). A big part of it is the way the internal reinforcement is now configured, the other part is a different urethane compound. Anyone who calls up the office guys (or emails me) in regards to ANY old yellow motor mount is comped a set of the V2 Green mounts, even if it's been 6 years. This doesn't mean all the yellows were inherently bad (just pulled a pair out of the #13 2002 that had been raced on for 15 years), but there were certainly plenty that had well documented issues.


    The mount as it stands now, is in my opinion the best on the market.
    Last edited by SkiFree; 12-02-2015, 02:32 PM.
    ADAMS Autosport

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      #17
      Originally posted by b*saint View Post
      Ill never run those. There's a reason they are rubber from BMW!

      Because Bmw is willing to compromise a tiny bit of performance for comfort price and durability
      BMW tech
      Umass Amherst
      05 wrx sti

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        #18
        Originally posted by Exodus_2pt0 View Post
        Also I'm not seeing the damage to the subframe. The opening looks intended. Maybe I'm not looking in the right spot?
        Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
        Yeah, I don't see any tearing. But it's been so long since I've seen a RWD front subframe I can't really be the one to say anything.
        The opening in the pictures is not intended, it is were the attached pad for the motor mount bolt is tearing away from the subframe. Sorry i could not get a better angle for the pictures.
        Last edited by wilholl; 12-02-2015, 10:12 PM.
        1988 325 non-letter Seta "Bronzit"
        1991 325ic "Laguna Green" (Sold)
        1993 325i "Laguna Green/Silver" (Sold)
        1998 528i "Artic Silver" m-sport(totalled by drunk driver)
        2000 528i Titansilber/gray m-sport
        2000 528i Titansilber/black m-sport(sold)
        2001 525i Anthracite m-sport(sold)
        2013 750i Black/Black m-sport "Beast"

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          #19
          Since we are on the topic of motor mounts, I'd suggest you don't buy Meyle rubber motor mounts, they make the motor bounce around.

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            #20
            Holy hell. Almost as bad as my 02's driver mount when it literally broke in half, though that was a 40 year old slab of crumbling rubber...
            -1976 2002 daily (Sold)
            -1986 528e 5 speed daily

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              #21
              Originally posted by Exodus_2pt0 View Post
              How were your other mounts?

              There's a reason no one uses poly for control arm bushings, or areas that are subject to actual movement. (The exception would be race cars that aren't used all the time, or people who don't know better.)

              If these were subject to impact or excessive movement, then that's why this happened. Loose nut maybe? Once it had some free play, the constant bashing from the engine loading/unloading the mount would explain why it completely disintegrated.
              well then I'm fucked haha Every mount on my car is polly


              1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
              1991 318i 4dr slick top


              Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
              Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
              Mtech 2 turbo restoration
              Brilliantrot slick top "build"

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                #22
                Mounts are fine, and control arms are OK, but they will wear out if subject to rotational forces sooner than rubber. I've seen it a few times, worse was on a set of leaf spring bushings on a lifted Silverado, the spring was riding on the center pin.

                My ideal setup is poly drivetrain mounts, poly subframe bushings, rubber everywhere else.
                No E30 Club
                Originally posted by MrBurgundy
                Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.

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                  #23
                  I was going to say, that looks like a weird failure. I have white poly mounts on the race car from a vendor on this forum, and they have worked fine for me. Even the Passenger that is somewhat melted due to the previous incorrect headers I had on the car is still working 5 years later..
                  1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
                  2016 Ford Flex
                  2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Exodus_2pt0 View Post
                    Mounts are fine, and control arms are OK, but they will wear out if subject to rotational forces sooner than rubber. I've seen it a few times, worse was on a set of leaf spring bushings on a lifted Silverado, the spring was riding on the center pin.

                    My ideal setup is poly drivetrain mounts, poly subframe bushings, rubber everywhere else.

                    I'm just poly everything. To be fair though. My car will see maybe 2000 miles a year. So its gonna take Me a while to wear shit out. Or at least I think...


                    1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                    1991 318i 4dr slick top


                    Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                    Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                    Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                    Brilliantrot slick top "build"

                    Comment

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