So are you saying there is no such thing as a 1987 U.S. spec 325is coupe? :roll:
Is this a good deal? '87 325is w/ issues
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Good call on waiting.... it wasn't a 325is anyway. '88 was when super eta engines were offered, '89 is when we finally got the 'i' engine in coupes and sedans, before that they only came in convertibles and grey market cars. You can confirm the model by the VIN placard on the door pillar.Last edited by uturn; 01-07-2016, 09:09 PM.Leave a comment:
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Alright guys. Decided to keep the Miata and I'll save up maybe 3-4k and buy a nice clean one.Leave a comment:
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Yeah. Pass on this. If I spent $1,500 - $2,000 more on my E30 I would be enjoying it right now. But 2 1/2 years later and about 1,000 miles driven I've instead spent $3,500 on parts and various tools (good investment on tools) to refreshing everything but the engine and transmission... which is next because the clutch slips, I have no heat or AC, the engine leaks oil and coolant, I have a vacuum leak so it idles weird and is at 250k. So now I'm going to do an engine swap on something I just did my first brake/suspension job on.
With the price of the car and parts it currently the cost per mile to drive this car is similar to an exotic/super car.
Really hold off, some of those jobs don't sound too bad but you're better off waiting for one in better condition. Do you know if the timing belt was changed?
Owner has no clue when the timing belt was last changed, so no...Leave a comment:
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Yeah. Pass on this. If I spent $1,500 - $2,000 more on my E30 I would be enjoying it right now. But 2 1/2 years later and about 1,000 miles driven I've instead spent $3,500 on parts and various tools (good investment on tools) to refreshing everything but the engine and transmission... which is next because the clutch slips, I have no heat or AC, the engine leaks oil and coolant, I have a vacuum leak so it idles weird and is at 250k. So now I'm going to do an engine swap on something I just did my first brake/suspension job on.
With the price of the car and parts it currently the cost per mile to drive this car is similar to an exotic/super car.
Really hold off, some of those jobs don't sound too bad but you're better off waiting for one in better condition. Do you know if the timing belt was changed?Last edited by AllydNYC; 01-07-2016, 03:18 PM.Leave a comment:
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Depends on your resources.
For me - the E30 is easier to get most problems solved since I have good local network of parts/mechanics/my own parts stash.Leave a comment:
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I would just buy an E30, but they're pretty damn hard to find ones that are manual and under $2500.Leave a comment:
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I'd do it. But I like the challenge of bringing it back to full operation. As long as it drives. However, you could probably sell your miata and buy an e30 with that money with less issues. However, it won't be a 325is model
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I'm not sure how much time you're willing to spend on the car or what you're willing to live with, but almost all of those are time-suck jobs. I personally wouldn't drive around with a missing lug bolt so that means replacing the rear hub. At 205kmi the other one probably needs it too, so that's two. At that point, may as well do both parking brake assemblies and the brakes (unless they're fairly fresh). Sunroof stuff is really not fun to work on, and could be super bad if the cartridge has started to disintegrate or the cable assembly is coming apart. Sounds like the window regulator is bad or something which isn't horrible. Wiring stuff always scares me, and I guess you'd have to wait and see what the stereo installer did to the car's wiring when you pull the head unit. Sway bar bushings are pretty easy.
Also, no heat and A/C would be a dealbreaker for me, because I know the A/C at least would become a headache.
Also I'd like to know why a fender was replaced and the hood isn't properly aligned, as well as what other regular maintenance was done.
...Oh, and welcome! Haha.Leave a comment:

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