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3D Printed Switch Blanks

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    #16
    PP

    Poly perhaps?
    1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
    2016 Ford Flex
    2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

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      #17
      Originally posted by blood_sweat_&_gears View Post
      In no way am I an expert but I doubt it would be ABS. The only reason I say that is because the OEM buttons/ trim are somewhat flexible. ABS is very rigid and when it gives it snaps. If anything its something with similar properties to PVC. That's just my thinking.
      ABS tears when bent, it does not snap. Are you sure you aren't thinking of acrylic?

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        #18
        i snagged like 5 of them at the junkyard when i needed some. i don't think they even charged me for them because i bought them with some other stuff.

        1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
        IG: @mitchlikesbikes

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          #19
          Hi BS&G

          I am curious about what type of plastic you've been using for those switches. Is it stiff, or does it have a bit of flexibility? I made some headlamp grills for my motorcycle, and it had tabs like yours. When test fitting them, both tabs broke as soon as I bent them a bit during trial fitting.





          Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

          massivebrakes.com

          http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





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            #20
            Originally posted by Massive Lee View Post
            Hi BS&G

            I am curious about what type of plastic you've been using for those switches. Is it stiff, or does it have a bit of flexibility? I made some headlamp grills for my motorcycle, and it had tabs like yours. When test fitting them, both tabs broke as soon as I bent them a bit during trial fitting.
            I bet they broke easily because the "grain" of the plastic from printing ran perpendicular to the bend. Rotate the path for at least that part and I bet it would be stronger as then you would be bending it across the grain. Make sense?

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              #21
              Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
              I bet they broke easily because the "grain" of the plastic from printing ran perpendicular to the bend. Rotate the path for at least that part and I bet it would be stronger as then you would be bending it across the grain. Make sense?
              Except that when a plastic part is produced from molden material, it should have no grain. Simili-ABS used in 3D printing seems an okay material as long you don't put that part to any use.

              Lee
              Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

              massivebrakes.com

              http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





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                #22
                Smooth the external patters using the acetone method. Also are you printing with ABS or PLA? What temp? Try printing in sectors rather than whole layers (give the plastic less time to cool and a better chance of binding). Might not be enough.... You could also use rubber washers?

                Also, thank you OP for posting the blank! Will definitely use it.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Massive Lee View Post
                  Hi BS&G

                  I am curious about what type of plastic you've been using for those switches. Is it stiff, or does it have a bit of flexibility?
                  I printed mine with PLA @ 210C and .2mm layer height. The clips don't have much pressure on them because I wanted to be able to pop them off easily without damaging the surrounding trim pieces.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Massive Lee View Post
                    Except that when a plastic part is produced from molden material, it should have no grain. Simili-ABS used in 3D printing seems an okay material as long you don't put that part to any use.

                    Lee
                    Lee you may want to try some Polycarbonate filament for that part. Also a smaller layer height first. Try 0.1mm as opposed to 0.3? I see in your picture.

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