Should I buy this car?

[markseven]

@2mAn - nevermind my last comment - I didn't get that you are talking cost. Carry on.

[markseven]

I doubt it. Its time to buy (if you havent already bought) and hold. New cars all suck and the supply of analog cars is dwindling so finding a good solid car is going to be harder and harder. Find an E30 you love and treasure it. Thats my plan, I just hope I can keep the E30 AND buy a pre 98 Porsche 911, though I will probably buy a 914 first so I can get a taste of Porsche costs.

I'm not sure the 914 is a good introduction to Porsche. A good introduction to Volkswagen maybe :-)

[markseven]

What color is that? Factory option kr respray?

Sent from the woods of Maine.

It's supposed to be Laguna Green Metallic (Lagunen Grun).The respray turned out a bit darker with a little too much metallic.

[2mAn]

I wonder if there is a price bubble that going to burst one of these days.

I doubt it. Its time to buy (if you havent already bought) and hold. New cars all suck and the supply of analog cars is dwindling so finding a good solid car is going to be harder and harder. Find an E30 you love and treasure it. Thats my plan, I just hope I can keep the E30 AND buy a pre 98 Porsche 911, though I will probably buy a 914 first so I can get a taste of Porsche costs.

[itsonlygeorge]

What color is that? Factory option kr respray?




Sent from the woods of Maine.

[george graves]

^well said. And the air cooled p-cars seems to have been pulled up from other, more expensive classic/exotic cars. I wonder if there is a price bubble that going to burst one of these days.

[mbonder]

Yeah prices have been pulled up by the e30 m3. I can remember the days when $8k would have gotten you a decent e30 m3, now you can't even buy the suspension and drivetrain for that.

I also remember the days when clean late models with 100k miles were going to $3-4k. This all started because air-cooled porsche prices went nuts, forcing people who wanted late 80's early 90's euro cars to look elsewhere, creating demand for the e30 m3, which filtered down to the 325i/is models, especially those that had more rare options.

This car, however, doesn't have what it takes to be anything more than a $4500 car, and that's if a PPI checks out.

[markseven]

And this is coming from someone that bought this for $2K in 2008.

[markseven]

Okay, I stand corrected.

Most E30s in the in the $4K range seem have bad panel gaps, bent sheet metal behind the fenders and quarters, sagging or ripped headliners, and stuff like that. OTOH, seats, clusters, dashboards are easy to R&R.

IMO a good starting point, meaning straight, rust-free, non-jacked up platform is worth it - I would pay a premium for a car that will not be death by a thousand small cuts.

[DirtyTh3rty]

nice e30? yes.
7k nice? no way i see m50 swaps with 130kish and what not selling at 7k all the time.

[gwb72tii]

what da f is a 325i/is anyways

[e30strokr]

all of the sudden these cars jumped.... I was lucky enough to find another 88 SETA exactly the same as the previous E30 I crashed... for $2250 with gas and od working!! haha... I don't see anything cheaper than 3K for an OK car.. the nice ones are getting up there.... there is none in the Bay area for 2-3K that loks like that... 5-7K price sounds about right according to CL...

[estoguy]

I agree with the majority... over priced. I do agree with markseven that it does have a lot of things going in it's favour. I'd say it's at least 2500-3000 overpriced IMO.

Agree with flyboy on the reliability - I've put 230K miles on my E30 in three years - daily driving, in Canada (meaning winter driving) and she's holding up like a champion. Easily the most reliable far I've owned.

[AndrewBird]

Well, I've only had one E30, and I also have one MK2 Jetta, and quite frankly, compared to the Jetta, the E30 has aged like shit. It has around 270k on it, which isn't that much more than the one for sale here, and the Jetta has about twice that. I honestly cannot believe the number of things that have broken on my E30, considering how well built it is supposed to be. My Jetta is simpler than the E30, so there is less to go wrong, but even so, as far as build quality goes, I'd have to say my Jetta (German not Mexican) is definitely the better of the two. Your mileage may vary.

My E30 may not be representative of all E30s, but I can't recommend buying a high mileage E30 to anyone.

I had the exact opposite experience with the 2 MK2 Jettas I owned. First one left my stranded SEVEN times in a year and a half, the last, blowing multiple holes in the block. Second one was better, but only because I swapped all the new parts off the first one.

But back on topic, yes, $7700 is way too much. 24V swapped cars sell for that much. $4k car tops.

[itsonlygeorge]

> basketweaves
> m20
> cheap cluster ring kit
> comfort interior
> euro clock
> cheap suspension
> boasting about actual work done by previous owner

The guy obviously got the car for much less and is trying to flip it. That car is worth around 3500. You can get swapped cars with better wheels and interior for less than what he is asking.

This.

Car looks clean, but is not worth asking price. That said, it id CA and if you can afford it and are looking for a well sorted E30 that probably doesn't need any work this may not be a bad choice. It really depends on what you want: a reliable daily? a car to learn on? a project? what's you budget and time for parts and labor? do you want to DIY or do you want to pay someone else to fix it? E30's are cheap if you do it yourself, and expensive if you pay someone else. If it's gna be your DD and only car then you should find a lower milage car with a detailed maintenance history.

I wouldn't pay more than $4k, and would shoot for less based on the listed "mods". Cheap suspension will be a problem.

Have a mechanic look over it THOROUGHLY is you are serious about this car as you don't seem to be mechanically inclined (based on questions you asked or didn't ask)

You will want a mechanic to check:

- A compression test
- A leak down test if any issues with compression test
- Check Spark Plugs
- Vacuum test for any leaks
- Check for oil or other fluid leaks for engine, trans, diff, power steering
- Suspension bushings and any other rubber on car (brake lines, exhaust hangers, etc)
- RUST! Check rockers, battery tray, trunk, floor boards, sub frames and under carriage as a minimum


If you are looking to learn then you can at least visually check for rust, fluid leaks, and rubber deterioration in suspension bushings and hoses, brake lines, and door/trunk seals. Anything bad will be proof to lower price. Read below and familiarize yourself with trouble areas and go climb under the car.

READ:

http://www.rtsauto.com/e30-bmw-buying-guide-translated-from-german/

Good luck!