Strut tower cracks

[UNHCLL]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=60661

Look at post 8. Let me know your outcome, because I may do something similar.

Its not the top of the strut that is cracked...
its where the strut housing structure meets the body.
Often hidden behind the brushed on seam sealer.

There are usually cracks under the fuse box up against the fire wall as well.
It isn't always a sign of an accident car, it can also appear on heavily tracked cars with very very aggressive suspension setups.

Ryan, I think the reason it needs to go on the frame machine was to straighten the frame rails...?

-C

[e30ryan///m3]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=60661

Look at post 8. Let me know your outcome, because I may do something similar.

I actually don't have the strut tower tops cracking its just behind the strut tower on the drivers side that seems to be the problem. Apparently it is a common problem on the e30 m3's and it just has to be welded back together.

[e30ryan///m3]

Its not the top of the strut that is cracked...
its where the strut housing structure meets the body.
Often hidden behind the brushed on seam sealer.

There are usually cracks under the fuse box up against the fire wall as well.
It isn't always a sign of an accident car, it can also appear on heavily tracked cars with very very aggressive suspension setups.

Ryan, I think the reason it needs to go on the frame machine was to straighten the frame rails...?

-C

Hey Chris,
I think that you are right. I would feel better knowing that the car is 100% straight before I attempt to put the new motor in it. I was just wondering how long the whole process would take? Ideally I could bring the car up to NH on a friday night and leave it until Saturday night and then bring it home, that way I don't have to rent a trailer 2 times. Your dad's body shop is too busy to do the work right now so he said he was going to check with another shop he sometimes uses to see if they could do it and how long they would need the car for?

Thanks,
Ryan

[UNHCLL]

Unfortunately its highly unlikely any body shop could pull the frame, and have it all straight and welded that quickly.
Bolting the car to the frame machine alone takes a good amount of time.

-Chris

[winstontj]

Ryan,
Did I meet you at the BavAuto Show & Shine? I think I remember your cabrio up there...

I heard that you spoke to Matt McGinn! I'll tell you with him you get what you pay for... and you get TOP NOTCH better than none results.

If you end up in a bind or need to compromise down to a lower price point (with lower quality) try Tri-Star Auto Body, 1849 Fall River Avenue, Seekonk, MA 02771, (508) 336-6475. They know what they are doing (even Maaco does IMO) but they are an 'Merican production shop & will probably try to get you to put a Chevy 350 under the hood. They can do good work if you stay on top of them - but nothing like Matt McGinn.

Also you can try Odaltino Auto Body (Franklin St., Warren, RI) if you want CHEAP (and mildly hack). He's done a lot of work for me on my MB 300TD wagon and he did the floors & nose on my 2002 DD (which is now a total rust bucket). He's got a frame puller and knows how to weld.

Is this a common stress point on the e30m3? Is it your driving style? Do you have a strut bar? Don't mean to pry but welds are VERY BRITTLE so if you don't correct (weld, strengthen & reinforce) the area you will end up cracking the area just around the welded patch. Seek out the source of the problem and fix that properly before you get in to do the patch work.

Good luck & let us know where you ended up going!!

[e30ryan///m3]

Is this a common stress point on the e30m3? Is it your driving style? Do you have a strut bar? Don't mean to pry but welds are VERY BRITTLE so if you don't correct (weld, strengthen & reinforce) the area you will end up cracking the area just around the welded patch. Seek out the source of the problem and fix that properly before you get in to do the patch work.

Good luck & let us know where you ended up going!!

Yes this is a very common stress point in e30 m3's, my other e30 m3 doesn't have this problem at all but that car is a garage queen and has had an easy life. This m3 on the other hand I bought from a friend who bought the car from someone he knew........ etc.etc. I assume this car was hit in the front at some point in its life and probably wasn't fixed right. I am going to have a strut bar installed when it is fixed to keep this from happening anymore, and I am going to get the cabrio reinforcements to help out with structural integrity of the car.

Matt is going to fix the car for me. As soon as I called him he knew exactly what I was talking about and I checked out some of the other work he has done and I feel that his quality of work is probably the most superior I've seen in a while. I did speak with Mario at VSR and his shop was booked up but he said that it usually runs about $500 - $800 to fix this problem plus the cost of the cabrio reinforcements and a strut bar, so that is pretty resonable in my opinion. I don't actually know what matt charges but I assume it won't be far off from that price. I am going to try to get some before and after pics of the cracks, just to document this for anybody else who might go through it in the future.

Thanks for all the other suggestions on local bodyshops though, and yes that was me at BavAuto last year, I think that the only reason it rained this past year was because I had the cabrio! LOL!:drink: