Auto-up would definately be a bad thing.. especially if you had your head sticking out of the window.
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So whatever happened to those one touch window switch?
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Hey Luke,
This would be right up your alley by the sounds of it. I am assuming you are in the electronics business.....
I haven't checked the wiring diagrams, but I would think you could just install a control relay and a auto reset overload device (to sense full down position) and be done with it for like 3-4 bucks a window.
Just a thought.....
Mark
EDIT: If anyone is interested, let me know I will build one.....
Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostTo elaborate: The GM part does one window ONLY, and will usually not do "Auto Up".
Luke
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Originally posted by thectrlguy View PostHey Luke,
This would be right up your alley by the sounds of it. I am assuming you are in the electronics business.....
I haven't checked the wiring diagrams, but I would think you could just install a control relay and a auto reset overload device (to sense full down position) and be done with it for like 3-4 bucks a window.
Just a thought.....
Mark
EDIT: If anyone is interested, let me know I will build one.....
More info?'89 325is S50 Track Montser
'04 X5 Daily/Tow Vehicle
http://www.avarestoration.com
http://www.myspace.com/brendanfiddle
Click here if you want to be my zombie slave...
http://www.youtube.com/user/Fidhle007
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Triggering the auto down would require a delay timer as well if you intend to use a stock style switch (unless you want to make it auto-down all the time)
Auto up isn't a problem as long as long as the proper controls are implemented. Much more sensitive to current i'd imagine. How do aftermarket units control it, given cars draw a wide variety of power from one kind to another depending on seal tightness and the size of the glass?
This is kinda reinventing the wheel, but its kinda neat to be able to add little features here and there as you build something.-Dave
2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville
Need some help figuring out the ETM?
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Ok... Got lazy, didn't feel like making a drawing. If someone really needs one let me know, and I will make one up.
Like DaveSmed said, it's going to do the "express open" routine every time you use it. As this doesn't change the original equipment switch, with one that has the extra contact. Or you could add time delays, and other interlocks.... yada yada
Here's the product overview: http://circuitprotection.com/auto.asp
Here's a application sheet: http://circuitprotection.com/04Databook/F07_power_(176-178).pdf
You can request samples from Raychem (no charge), and pick up a relay at the parts depot.
-Mark
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This thread is getting interesting, When it comes to electrics though, It's still my first day working at Mcdonalds. I think somebody would want to build these and sell them? People have been close before? Up, down, incremental up, incremental down, I won't lose a body part , that's what I'm talking about. Any other features that could be added to the switch? SOMEONE MAKE EM.
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Originally posted by Fanzotti View PostThis thread is getting interesting, When it comes to electrics though, It's still my first day working at Mcdonalds. I think somebody would want to build these and sell them? People have been close before? Up, down, incremental up, incremental down, I won't lose a body part , that's what I'm talking about. Any other features that could be added to the switch? SOMEONE MAKE EM.
Maybe just focusing on the express up then, since the express down is a whopping $5 from the boneyard?
Express up would be a better canidate to leave out the delay timer on as well, since usually people roll the window all the way up. Control current limiting a little tighter (I would think adjustibility would be important since these are 20 year old cars) I think auto reverse would be a little too hard to implement though. Not sure how newer cars do it unless they use a position switch.
Thectrlguy, maybe i'm thinking of the wrong thing, but isnt that just a plain PTC for circut protection? Not sure how I would hook that up in this case, though they make sweet fuse replacements. Though if those work differently than i'm thinking, they would prob do the trick.
I was thinking start out with a simple 5 pin Bosch style relay wired for latching. (85 and 87 bridged and connected to the window motor and switch, 86 ground, 30 window circuit breaker feed) From that, you would need an automatically resetting interruption to the circuit based on current. The problem with the PTC mentioned is its gradual. It would take a while to pull down low enough to reset the relay, and the window motor is tied up until then. (no up/down control) Adding the delay timer would entail connecting the window motor and switch to pin 87, and installing the delay between 87 and 85. Maybe i'll figure out how to plop a cap in there or something cheap. Any ideas?-Dave
2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville
Need some help figuring out the ETM?
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Originally posted by Jscotty View PostAuto-up would definately be a bad thing.. especially if you had your head sticking out of the window.
You would have to be unconscious or drunk as a skunk!!! lol
Oh I guess I'm not as young as you.sigpic
WTB-Strut Bar
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Originally posted by Fanzotti View PostWhat can we get for 50 bucks, looking for something pre made.sigpic
WTB-Strut Bar
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Originally posted by Fanzotti View PostWhat can we get for 50 bucks, looking for something pre made.Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostOr buy the one I have in stock and add a switch in your center console to run it.
Pull out the lock out switch, install a window switch, install the Scytek piece I sell...then your windows would go up when you armed your alarm, down if you told them to, opened a crack when it hit 100 degrees in your car, or all up AND all down when you use the switch on the console.
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