Which guibo?

[speedhop]

Which guibo is suitable for the 89 325i?? There are two types and I can't figure out which one to order! Also...CSB part number??

Any other bushings I should replace while I'm in there?

I know it's been discussed a lot, but I couldn't find any descriptive answer...sorry for the ridiculous q's.

Thanks

[Mike325]

Looks like #2 in this. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...22&hg=26&fg=10

Do you have the balancer on your driveshaft still? You should. I know that most people just take it off, look up how to do it.

I would just replace the trans mounts while you are in there. Engine mounts would be reasonable to do at this time two, since the trans is no longer held in place.

[StereoInstaller1]

Personally, since motor mounts or tranny mounts are easily done with the driveshaft in place...but shifter bushings would be MUCH easier with the driveshaft out, I would deal with the sloppy shift stuff now.

Just my opinion, YMMV.

Luke

[speedhop]

Thanks for the confirmation...I thought it was #2 but I just wanted to make sure.

I'm also replacing....

-CSB
-Tranny Mounts (stock or IE??)
-Z4 2.5 shifter (does the SS diy writeup have all bushings to get rid of slop?)
-Guibo
-Steering Rack (e36 95 M3)
-Inner Ball joint on Rt side (should I just replace the whole control arm?)
-Fan clutch/Water pump

...dear god I have a lot of work ahead of me :blowup:

[Mike325]

That sounds like a good list. The timing belt should be on it though if you are doing the water pump. As for the ball joints, you should just do all of them. If you car get a shop or if you can press them out, you can save some money. If not, I got my new control arms from FPC Groton. It is a euro car parts dealer in CT. They are on ebay. I would also do the control arm bushing.

For the trans bushings. My friend with an e36 m3 has the understeer urithaine bushings with the metal top and has no vib problems. Some urithaine bushings will cause more noise and vibs than others.

Be sure to search. All the info you need is easy to find. Let us know if you need more help.

[speedhop]

too bad understeer doesn't make any tranny mounts/bushings for the e30 :(

I have solid motor mounts right now...so i think i'm going to switch out those for some IE's and then just get some stock tranny mounts.
Anyone have this setup??

Also...I went to check out the steering rack parts at bma and the nuts, bolts, washers, spacers that were on the diy were not found...are the part numbers right?

[Teaguer]

Yes you should do the t-belt & tensioner since you are already doing the water pump .

And you won't just be replacing ther inner ball-joint , you have to replace the whole arm .
If you replace the arm it also makes sense to replace the CAB's .

If you use stiffer motort mounts you also want to do the same with the trans mounts are they will fail prematurely .

And stay away from FPC Groton suspension parts , only use Lemforder or Meyle for your BMW , unless you like replacing crap before you should have to .

AKG Motorsport has nice stiffer mounts/bushings for great prices .

[speedhop]

And you won't just be replacing ther inner ball-joint , you have to replace the whole arm .

Is it not wise to just replace the inner ball joint or is it simply out of ease to do the entire arm?

I have brand new CAB's on there already and the timing belt and tensioner were done 10k mi ago

[Teaguer]

Both .

My thoughs have always been that if the inner goes then the non-replaceable one is not far behind .
i've always just thrown a complete arm on my cars .

[peller]

Whats up man. I just purchased an 89 325i too and decided to redo the suspension/shifter as a summer project. I used the polyurethane CAB bushings from AKG motorsports, they were easy to install so long as you have a 4" table vice. There's a DIY CAB removal here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=87295
You'll need to replace the entire control arm, and the inner ball joint nut is a bitch. I found the best method was a 22mm socket for the driver side (i had the sway bar out, not sure if it gets in the way) and a 22mm socket with a universal joint and about 18" of extensions for the passenger side (gotten from engine compartment). You may want to do your sway links while you're in there.

As for the steering shit, this guide is great: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=66247 (and has part numbers in it. I got a 95 M3 rack from bavarian recycling, turned out to be a freshly remanufactured rack... im not sure if thats guaranteed from them or not tho. On the east coast it took 3 weeks to get to me, that sucked shit). You don't need any new power steering hoses if you don't want to spend the money, I was able to put a slight bend in the high pressure line and it bolted right up.

for the shifter bushing renewal, prepare to hate your life. I'm trying to redo mine with the driveshaft installed and it SUCKS. I've wasted 2 hours on the bitch clip and still haven't gotten it off. Tonight i made a custom tool out of some scrap sheet metal i had lying around, hopefully it'll do the trick.
here's a picture of it: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...s/lift_pic.jpg
There's a clip down right (not visible) that needs to be opened, but theres all of 3/4" space with the tranny installed. Doesn't help that mine is smothered in oil and grime. For reference the screwdriver fades into the front of the car.

Here are some part nums I had left over from my order.

23-71-1-175-424-M61 (2) = E21 Tranny Mounts (stiffer than the stock e30 ones, bolt in replacement)

Shifter Shit
25-11-1-220-379-M9 (2) = Circlip for shift selector rod
25-11-1-220-439-M9 (4) = Yellow washers for shift selector rod
25-11-1-220-707-M9 (1) = Mount Bracket behind the shifter
25-11-1-469-397-M92 (1) = White shifter cup thing that the ball on the shifter sits in
25-11-7-503-525-M200 (1) = Shift rod coupler. If you can salvage your old one you only need to replace the sponge inside, part# 25-11-1-434-194-M9 (1)
25-11-7-516-160-BOE (1) = Z3 3.0L Shifter
I purchased some delrin bushings from akg motorsports for 15 bucks, http://www.akgmotorsport.com/e30products.html (ctrl+F for shifter house bushings)
Note that if your inner shift boot is cracked you'll need to replace that too, just pull up the leather shift boot and take a look to see if you need to replace it. I'm not sure of the part number, hit up realoem.com to find it

Hope this helps, good luck.

[speedhop]

thanks for all the help and info guys...much appreciated!

i'm going to buy myself some stuff right now and get it done!