New head or bottom end also ?

[Jean]

When a timing belt snaps on the m20 what's the probability that you would need to replace the bottom end and not just the top end ? Do the pistons get damaged or is it just the valves / head ?

I am deciding if I want to purchase a 91 325i that is otherwise mint, owner said the engine is broken and makes noises but that's all I can get from him.

[backtrail69]

Usually there is only minor scoring on the tops of the pistons or small indents. Usually the valves will bend or the rockers with break before it puts a hole in a piston.

[Jon325i]

It would largely depend on when said t-belt snapped. I've heard of this occuring upon starting the engine and there was no damage suffered. Now if it occured while the motor was running (particularly in the upper revs), then I would be concerned about what may be lurking within damagewise.

Keep prying at the seller to see just what exactly happened at the time the belt snapped.

Jon

[Bimmerboy91]

so that concudes this thread. the higher the RPM's when the belt snaps, the more damage the engine will suffer

[Jean]

PO said engine makes noises, it has 12x miles and the car is otherwise mint inside and outside with a working A/C. Guy bought the car and drove it for a bit and then the engine "broke", of course he didn't take it to a mechanic to see what's wrong. I know I am going to be taking a chance with this, trying to "predict" what I might be looking it repair wise (hopefully just the head).

Any tips or hints (other than see if the block has holes in it lol) ?

I will try and find out more tomorrow on how exactly it stopped...

[Bimmerboy91]

oil leaks, exhaust fumes, smells?

[Jean]

Noted. Should I bother taking a portable compression check gauge ? (I am thinking no, if the head is bad it still won't tell me if the bottom end is ok right ?).

[Jon325i]

Noted. Should I bother taking a portable compression check gauge ? (I am thinking no, if the head is bad it still won't tell me if the bottom end is ok right ?).

Seeing the belt snapped, the motor can't be 'turned' to give any kind of accurate reading so obtaining a compression reading would be futile at best. I know there has to be some type of visual inspection device that you can pass thru the spark plug opening that would let you view the piston crowns - but I don't have one. I guess a reputable mechanic would.

You're in a catch-22 of sorts here.....sorta buying on blind faith I suppose.

Jon

[PiercedE30]

Pull the valve cover and take a look.

[Turf1600]

How much is it?

[Jean]

I'll take the valve cover off for sure, making some calls now to see how much extra i'll have to pay over 100 miles for tow. My AAA plus covers up to 100 miles, doubt they'll let me call in twice in one day, it's about 180 miles away.

[amdspitfire]

I'll take the valve cover off for sure, making some calls now to see how much extra i'll have to pay over 100 miles for tow. My AAA plus covers up to 100 miles, doubt they'll let me call in twice in one day, it's about 180 miles away.

check under valve cover and under engine for signs of oil/coolant, you should be able to get a good idea. How much are they asking?

[Jean]

Went to look at it, not too bad but needs more work than PO mentioned and pictures showed. Engine runs, needs a rocker or complete head from the sound it's making, belt didn't actually snap yet. Was a waste of tank of gas and 360 miles round trip lol.

Car needs the following:

front lip,
front valance
rear bumper trim
dash
glovebox and/or lock
front driver's seat
both door skins are damaged/dented
one side has a slight scar/dent behind the door
front fender has a ding
rear driver side fender has a good side dent that's showing surface rust.
rear valance not perfect

has ellipsoids, map light mirror, m-tech steering wheel, tan leather interior (covered in seat covers to hide the wear/damage). Dash had a dash cover to hide the crack(s). Engine starts, makes fairly loud clicking sound from the head. Little bit of oil leaking from the front passenger side on the head/block side. Steering rack looks clean, oil pan looks clean, little bit of oil leaking. Basketweaves and ok tires on all four, no spare. A/C / and heater hooked up, (didn't test A/C as the car wasn't running long enough but fan works). Power windows and sunroof is working, has factory fm/tape. It's leaking fuel also on the driver side near the inline pump area.

I got him down to 650 from 13xx cash, this car is in Fresno. I am not going to buy it so just sharing the info. It's an 89 325is automatic also, 12xxxx miles, red, paint on the front fenders is faded, has a couple deep scratches on the body panels.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?rdpage=thumb&car_id=225680246&dealer_id=60549695&car_year=1989&model=325I&num_records=25&make3=&make2=BMW&start_year=1988&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance

[Jon325i]

That would erk me - all that time & distance traveled only to find your hopes dashed because in reality the car was a real beater. Fortunately for you BMW cranked out plenty of E30s so another example is bound to surface soon.....hopefully a little closer to home too

Jon