e30 fixes for common problems

[Julien]

Hey thanks for the tips! I need you to clarify #24 for me please... I have this problem but I don't quite understand your solution.

The idea is that you put a spacer between the frame of the top and the canvas, this will raise the canvas a few mm. Open you top, stick a spacer between the top and the frame of the top (by the rear door jam), close top- you'll see what i mean.


Julien

[Kruzen]

If your vents are sagging and shit and won't stay up, take them out and slap some velcro strips (just the fuzzy side) on top and bottom, it will use friction to hold them in place.

[SpecM]

-Another word of advice on the "stuck-wheel" solution: I always thread a lug nut/bolt (on any car) about half-way back in before beating on it. That way, the wheel (also works on drums/rotors) doesn't fly wild accross your driveway/garage/shop. Just a safety tip.

[NABR 1337]

this needs a sticky..

[SpecM]

-Anyone know a good (CHEAP?) fix for a broken odometer? Just replace the gear or what?

[Julien]

-When working with your guibo, short shift kit, driveshaft, etc on a 325i; know that you can easily just remove the front section of the exhaust (if the system is stock) to access the drivetrain components..

1. get some wd40/pb plaster on the 6 manifold bolts
2. get a bunch of extensions and a swivel + 14mm socket with a big break bar
3. from the bottom of the car postion the socket, swivel extension bar (having someone hold the socket on the bolts from the top helps alot) and break them loose one by one (you kinda have one shot at this, get the setup right the first time around and it will not be a problem, fuck it up once (strip one of the bolts) and it can take all day.

[Julien]

-You can top fill the transmission by using a piece of hose... Open first the fill hole on the tranny and then the drain hole (to make sure you are not stuck with an empty unfillable tranny) put the hose in the fill hole and fish it up to you engine bay, fill from there... Note: this will make a mess, buy a pump it's better

[ErykTheRead]

Any tips for high/stiff clutch pedals?

-E

[Julien]

bleed your system and adjust your clutch pedal height using the excentric bolt that holds it to the cylinder.


Julien

[ErykTheRead]

Wouldn't air in the line produce a low, soft clutch? I bled it recently with my brake fluid flush.

I also was under the impression that the eccentric bolt did not offer much adjustability, but I will check it out.

-E

[Julien]

When i changed the fluid in my system it softened up the clutch pedal quite a bit. I see you have an early model car with the funky spring behind the pedal. If i remember correctly the spring rate of the spring can also be adjusted via a 10mm nutt.


Good luck
Julien

[dtdub]

Any advice for replacing ball joints? Do you have to replace the whole control arm with a new unit that has them alread pressed in?

[fwappy]

-When working with your guibo, short shift kit, driveshaft, etc on a 325i; know that you can easily just remove the front section of the exhaust (if the system is stock) to access the drivetrain components..

1. get some wd40/pb plaster on the 6 manifold bolts
2. get a bunch of extensions and a swivel + 14mm socket with a big break bar
3. from the bottom of the car postion the socket, swivel extension bar (having someone hold the socket on the bolts from the top helps alot) and break them loose one by one (you kinda have one shot at this, get the setup right the first time around and it will not be a problem, fuck it up once (strip one of the bolts) and it can take all day.

Is there a sure-fire way to ensure you've sealed up the header-to-pipe joint completely? Even if I use new bolts and nuts, it still seems once they're all tight, there's still a leak.

[Simon S]

Thanks much for the tip regarding trans removal on an m42..

(DIY clutch replacement in near future and wondering 'how to manage engine placement' was worrying me)

Cheers.

[Julien]

Is there a sure-fire way to ensure you've sealed up the header-to-pipe joint completely? Even if I use new bolts and nuts, it still seems once they're all tight, there's still a leak.

I've never seen that gasket leak on any e30. What is most likely happening is that you are
-either not getting enough torque down
-have a bad gasket
-have no leak there, but have a leak at the "trumpet" portion of the rear downpipe (very common)

Any advice for replacing ball joints? Do you have to replace the whole control arm with a new unit that has them alread pressed in?

Replace the whole control arm, it's a worthwhile investment. Try to replace your shocks/springs (if they are worn, or you want to lower your car) at the same time so you don't ruin the balljoint's boot down the road..

Julien