More than I bargained for...

[Beej '86 325es]

Took my car into the dealer yesterday to have them install all new parts where the selector rod meets the transmission to fix my shifter slop. Also having them put in urethane tranny mounts and replace the rear seal. Apparently the cause of my slop was the console mounts (sheet metal console, not aluminum), so they had to order those. The big kicker is apparently my rear u-joint on my driveshaft is apparently shot. The mechanic says he doesn't know of he can even get it back in. $600 for a new one. Looking at 8 hours labor now @ $98/hr.

How do U-Joints on driveshafts go bad exactly? I'm going to have them keep the old one so I can see what's wrong with it.

[KenC]

Re: More than I bargained for...

Apparently the cause of my slop was the console mounts (sheet metal console, not aluminum), so they had to order those.

I probably could have told you that, but oh well. The console mounts wear out after a short while (mine were SHOT). The console would move about an inch or so with the worn mounts, but after I replaced them it'll only move about 1/16". They're $6 each from BMA.

[Beej '86 325es]

While I'm thinking about it...
They can't make the order for the driveshaft until tomorrow. Will a later driveshaft without the harmonic balancer fit directly? Is there any advantage other than selector rod clearance? If there's an advantage, now's the time to tell him that I want a newer one in there.
Thanks.

[krisco]

Are you talking about the vibration damper on the driveshaft? If so, you can take that off by removing three bolts, I think 17mm. I'm pretty sure the harmonic balancer isn't on the driveshaft. On another note, you should look into how hard it would be to replace the U-joints, or just the whole driveshaft. I think a new driveshaft from bav auto is around 5 or 600, almost 1k less than what you're looking at spending. Driveshafts are easy to replace.
Kris

[MR 325]

U joints are not replaceable, you will need a whole new driveshaft.

You know you can get one cheap at a junkyard, right?

[Beej '86 325es]

Yeah, the dealer said it would be $600 for the whole driveshaft. Normally, I would have them put the old one back in (which they said would be very difficult if they could at all). However, I now live down where I went to college and don't have access to the tools or people here who would normally help me do that big of a project.

[JasonH]

Check out Mesa Performance in Costa Mesa, California. They can probably get you one for A LOT less than that...even with shipping.

[bimmer8604]

im parting a 90 325i next week, starting tuesday. Would you be able to use the parts you need from this car, it's a pretty solid car now.

Kyle

[e30evolution]

the bearings in u-joints go bad, there are cups on the 4 ends of an x... which allows for rotation and angle change at the same time... the cups are connected to the x with needle bearings
.... i dont see how that would make it difficult to put it back in... i think he just wants your money

[reelizmpro]

Screw that. Get a remanufactured driveshaft (new joints, center support bearing) for like $300 or so. No need to get a brand new one. Over time the joints can stiffen up causing vibration/shudder under acceleration.

[Beej '86 325es]

Wow, talked to the guy at the dealership, he actually did order a remanufactured driveshaft for me for about $600, the new ones were $1500!!! :shock: That's insane. He said if I wanted to order a remanufactured one from somewhere else, that would be fine, but I just said f*ck it. If I ordered one myself, I wouldn't be getting it until next Wednesday at the very earliest and would have cost me about $450 with 1 year less warranty anyway. At least this way I'll have my car back tomorrow.

I really don't doubt that it needed to be replaced. It's got 255,000 miles on it and the only thing I think ever replaced on it is the rubber flex disk. From looking underneath my car, they know I'm not the typical soccer mom they can pull one over on. The mechanic wants to show me the driveshaft and other stuff he did when I pick it up also. The damage is looking like about $1500 with all of the work they've done. At least this week I haven't been stranded, they gave me a new Camry until my car is fixed. Usually they give me a a new 323i, but they were all out.

Next project (very soon) is the euro downpipes, euro catless center exhaust and s.s. catback and I'll have a VERY solid car. I'll keep you updated. Thanks for the input.

[Bokes]

i think a guy here in town has a euro exhaust he might sell you. i'll ask him about it.

[Bill 84 318i]

I don't see how a worn u-joint would make it difficult to reinstall the driveshaft. If you didn't have any vibrations, I'd tell them to suck it up and put it back in. If it does go (read: feel) bad, then order a cheaper remanufactured one elsewhere and install it yourself. Slightly notchy ujoints aren't that uncommon.

Too late, I suppose.

[Beej '86 325es]

I don't see how a worn u-joint would make it difficult to reinstall the driveshaft. If you didn't have any vibrations, I'd tell them to suck it up and put it back in. If it does go (read: feel) bad, then order a cheaper remanufactured one elsewhere and install it yourself. Slightly notchy ujoints aren't that uncommon.

Too late, I suppose.

Well, maybe it had something to do with the center bearing that made it hard to put in. I don't really understand either. But, that's why I'm going to look at it. I have been experiencing some bad vibrations at about 80-85 + MPH though for a while, I thought my tires needed balancing, but maybe this is the cause.

i think a guy here in town has a euro exhaust he might sell you. i'll ask him about it.

I think Greg is hooking me up on that actually. I'll let you know if he can't get ahold of one though. Thanks.