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124K 90 325is w/ JC Chip, 19# injectors, M30 AFM dyno graph

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    124K 90 325is w/ JC Chip, 19# injectors, M30 AFM dyno graph


    142.7rwhp, 143.1 rwtq

    Dynojet dyno, ~80 degrees outside, Humidity: 79%

    I was crossing my fingers for 150. But then afterwards I remembered I had an old engine, and just getting stock figures was probably good. I wish I had my engine dyno'ed early to compare between stock AFM & JC chip versus now, but I could do that down the road I guess......

    #2
    I'm sure the heat had a big effect on your dyno numbers. Do it again when its a little cooler and I'm sure you'll see better results.
    '91 318is
    sigpic

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      #3
      The conversion factor for a Dynojet is 1.15, so that puts you at 164bhp/165lb-ft

      That's interesting.
      My mountains are better than yours.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Brew
        I'm sure the heat had a big effect on your dyno numbers. Do it again when its a little cooler and I'm sure you'll see better results.
        Too bad I was so hyped for getting my car dyno'ed I didn't wait for a cooler day.
        Last night at the drag strip it was about the same weather, and everyone was slow as shit.

        Kris, oh well. At least it is stronger than it was. The acceleration is noticably better. So maybe I was making 155hp before. :?

        The flat top out of HP, does that mean something, like a longer duration cam would open up the engine a little more. (Definately not on my list, but just a general question.......)

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Brew
          Do it again when its a little cooler and I'm sure you'll see better results.
          Isnt that basically cheating? I mean peak numbers are for bench racers, its the AF and area under the curves that matters
          BEERTECH

          Comment


            #6
            Ok, I worded that wrong.

            If you want to see numbers that are better than stock, dyno it on a cooler day to get more accurate numbers.
            '91 318is
            sigpic

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Brew
              Ok, I worded that wrong.

              If you want to see numbers that are better than stock, dyno it on a cooler day to get more accurate numbers.

              Err, at the same temp BMW dyno'd at?
              My mountains are better than yours.

              Comment


                #8
                how would that be more accurate? that would just tell him how his car runs on a cooler day.

                you should be happy that you have a strong motor. :)
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by nando
                  you should be happy that you have a strong motor. :)
                  yeah, it pulls nicely, no matter what the numbers read out at.

                  p.s. some pics, just because:



                  Several people commented on my camber in the rear - and I laughed and said they should have seen it before the rear came up two inches!

                  Side note - car sounded badass on dyno - I6 is my love

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Just other comparisons.....
                    Originally posted by E30godz
                    i had my M20 dynoed (120k) with a dinan chip, intake and exhaust and it made 135 HP and 130 torque.
                    Originally posted by SlammedE30
                    My M20 was stock save for a Conforti chip and it made 150 rwhp and 150 rwtrq. [at 110K miles]

                    Dave Adam's M20 tuning.
                    RWHP Torque
                    M20 AFM 138.4 137.1
                    M30 AFM 143.0 140.6
                    M30 AFM 145.1 141.6
                    + 4bar FP
                    Even though they were slightly disappointing, it would seem my engine isn't that bad off. But although it is right on with Dave's #, I do not think he had the JC chip in combination with the larger AFM and injectors. Of course, Todd got 150rwhp or close to that, completely stock, so not all engines are the same.....



                    Hello All,
                    Just got back from the dyno. I've had my new exhaust and injectors (21.5#) in for a while and I just got it dyno tuned. The result: I was at 177rwhp and 179rwtrq, now I'm at 186 rwhp and 192 rwtrq. My scanner doesn't work and The pictures of the graphs didn't turn out, but I can post some crappy pics if you want them I'm happy to say the least.
                    -Ted


                    Originally posted by Jason99T/A
                    I purchased an '87 325is yesterday. It is in excellent shape for its age and has 251k miles on it. ....The best I could get out of it was 135.5rwhp/139.9rwhp, which I didn't think was too bad for mileage on the motor. ....Finally, we pulled the airfilter out to make some final pulls. The filter was made by Fram and didn't have many miles on it according to the previous owner. It was clean, so I didn't anticipate much of a gain. However, this proved to be the best "mod", resulting in 141.1rwhp/146.0rwtq. .....Overall, I was pretty happy with the numbers the car put down. I had heard of some other bone stock "i" motors putting down 140-143rwhp stock, so I wasn't too far off.
                    The Dynojet software allows you to correct to between SAE, STD, DIN, and actual (uncorrected). The actual numbers are exactly what the car put down on the rollers on that day with the current atmospheric conditons.

                    SAE corrects to: 29.23" Hg, 77 deg F, 0 % relative humidity
                    STD corrects to: 29.92" Hg, 68 deg F, 0 % relative humidity
                    :?:

                    BTW, would a completely ragged guibo create more drivetrain loss? not an excuse, just a curiousity....

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I wasn't aware that the dyno software took into account the temp and humidity.

                      I don't know all that much about dyno tuning, but after reading an article in a recent Car and Driver on Dinan's techniques, I came under the impression that cooler, more controlled conditions yielded more accurate results. I could be wrong.
                      '91 318is
                      sigpic

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by bimmerphile
                        The conversion factor for a Dynojet is 1.15, so that puts you at 164bhp/165lb-ft

                        That's interesting.
                        Stu IMed me and said the conversion for Dynoject is 1.21, so that puts down 172.7bhp & 173.2lb-ft.

                        So 173/173 in warm, humid conditions. Looking a little better. 8)

                        Brew, I do not think the software took into account climate. I think that is the conditions dyno run should be "ideally" tested in.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by rwh11385
                          Originally posted by bimmerphile
                          The conversion factor for a Dynojet is 1.15, so that puts you at 164bhp/165lb-ft

                          That's interesting.
                          Stu IMed me and said the conversion for Dynoject is 1.21, so that puts down 172.7bhp & 173.2lb-ft.

                          So 173/173 in warm, humid conditions. Looking a little better. 8)

                          Brew, I do not think the software took into account climate. I think that is the conditions dyno run should be "ideally" tested in.
                          thats better considering you have a "refreshed" m20.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by graphik
                            thats better considering you have a "refreshed" m20.
                            Yeah. Before I was wondering what could be wrong?

                            New spark plugs, new cap & rotor, 44K on a rebuilt head, Sea Foam/Zmax/Gumout, clean injectors, just changed oil & filter, clean air filter, good exhaust, no leaks, etc. And all heater hoses to the block replaced, so it should be solid for years - in addition to replacing the headbolts that are the ones that snap.

                            E30 tuning = 1 part maintence, 1 part repair, 1 part modification. ;)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by rwh11385
                              Originally posted by Brew
                              I'm sure the heat had a big effect on your dyno numbers. Do it again when its a little cooler and I'm sure you'll see better results.
                              Too bad I was so hyped for getting my car dyno'ed I didn't wait for a cooler day.
                              Last night at the drag strip it was about the same weather, and everyone was slow as shit.

                              Kris, oh well. At least it is stronger than it was. The acceleration is noticably better. So maybe I was making 155hp before. :?

                              The flat top out of HP, does that mean something, like a longer duration cam would open up the engine a little more. (Definately not on my list, but just a general question.......)
                              Did you run your car or just watch?

                              Comment

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