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being one of the few on here that actually HAVE ITB's i can honestly say the are prob not worth it hp to $$ wise. they will allow you to run a much bigger cam because the overlap wont screw with the computer, because of intake pulses. you will also have a smoother idle with the big cam and ITB's.
YOU, unfortunately live in CALIFORNIA, home of Dianne Fianstein (waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles) and the pollution nazi's. you will never get ITB's through CARB, i don't think any one offers a CARB cert. cam for the m-30, so that is out too if you want to LEGALLY street drive the car.
i didn't splash the coin for the MAF, CAMzilla, split second ARC-2a, or Dbilas ITB's. i, if i had the $$ and was doing it myself would have gone Dbilas ITB's, big cam (although not quite as big) P & P head myself, Wolf stand alone. not wasted my time with the split second stuff. you can't do anything with the timing, only the mixture, and no MAF at all is a whole lot easier!!
i live in AZ. where they only car about what is comming out your tail pipe, that you still have a cat, you have EGR lines, and your gas cap doesn't leak! that is it!! so i can get away with more.
i am going with the m-30b3.5 because i want a mountain of torque, and i want it in a range that is usuable and available it the normal driving range. not when i have to spin it up!
i have driven, owned, and built turbo cars (although none of them BMW's ). they are FUN X 1000000000. but as a daily with the heat...not so much fun and can be problematic, even with intercoolers, bigger radiators, & oil coolers.
there is also something so satisfying about a good hard pulling N/A motor in a good handling car. even with a fast turboed car, it just isn't the same. the turbo might be faster, but it just isn't the same warm fuzzy feeling.
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ITB's do look cool/baller though, give you bragging rights, and sound cool at WFO throttle with a big cam, and since they came on the car i'd run 'em and will on the m30b3.5 8-)
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seriously? what would you do with that much power? there is no way you would be able to put it down to the ground. the guys with 3-400whp have enough trouble as it is. I guess for drifting it might work..
I wouldnt want it. The only thing that does is put out smoke. You can measure it's longevity in hours. I rather a 300whp motor that will last me forever.
Why ITBs on either of the motors? That is very costly with minimal gains. If you want ITBs, get a motor that came with them.
Why low boost non-intercooled?
It sounds like you are trying to spend a lot of money for not a lot of gain.
If you want a lot of power for not too much money, build a nice intercooled m20 turbo setup like backtrail69.
If you want the relibility of an NA motor, get an m52 or s50.
-Erik
im actually not spending copious amounts of money and im looking for the throttle response and top end i'd gain from the ITB's on the m30 since i already would have more than enough botton end torque.
Jesse go with the M30 ITB, i saw u roll in it last night. Im pretty sure u got ur mind set.... Wheres my parts!!! j/k. hit me up.
haha im getting the engine in the next few days man, and i almost have all the parts for my suspension, i just have to clean up the spare subframe and bolt everything to it to swap in. waiting on my subframe mounts and sway bars though.
alright dipshit, I have a turbocharged m20.That is why I gave you an opinion on one. People make posts like this all the time and nothing ever happens. Usually when someone is going to do something they just do it. Why the hell do you want "itbs" anyway? For mad tite looks? "itbs" on anything short of an all out race motor are pointless. Dbilas was put on my friends "built m20" and he gained 12 peak hp and lost the bottom end. Unless you plan on spinning it past 8000 dont waste your time.
haha good for you on the turbo m20, and there are many different ways to build engines. Nothing is set in stone man.
i still dont see why your negative post was needed in my thread though? if you dont think im going to do any of this and im just "pipe dreaming" then why acknowledge it? just pick up your bad attitude and take it elsewhere ;)
also you are obviously on a budget. It is going to cost 5k minimum to build an m20 and turbocharge it. Which by the way if your so concerned about weight you dont want to add an intercooler, will weigh more than a 24v motor by the time you add a turbo, 3 inch exhasut and an intercooler. 4k to build an m20 or m30 with "itbs" and thats if you do all the headwork yourself. a stock s50 can be had for 2500 and it cost maybe 1k to get it in the car if your not a dumbass with what you buy (buying shit you dont need) and you have more power than a strung out/peaky
m20
Not so much a budget as just not wanting to spend money on shit i dont need. But hey, believe what you want man. haha.
being one of the few on here that actually HAVE ITB's i can honestly say the are prob not worth it hp to $$ wise. they will allow you to run a much bigger cam because the overlap wont screw with the computer, because of intake pulses. you will also have a smoother idle with the big cam and ITB's.
YOU, unfortunately live in CALIFORNIA, home of Dianne Fianstein (waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles) and the pollution nazi's. you will never get ITB's through CARB, i don't think any one offers a CARB cert. cam for the m-30, so that is out too if you want to LEGALLY street drive the car.
i didn't splash the coin for the MAF, CAMzilla, split second ARC-2a, or Dbilas ITB's. i, if i had the $$ and was doing it myself would have gone Dbilas ITB's, big cam (although not quite as big) P & P head myself, Wolf stand alone. not wasted my time with the split second stuff. you can't do anything with the timing, only the mixture, and no MAF at all is a whole lot easier!!
i live in AZ. where they only car about what is comming out your tail pipe, that you still have a cat, you have EGR lines, and your gas cap doesn't leak! that is it!! so i can get away with more.
i am going with the m-30b3.5 because i want a mountain of torque, and i want it in a range that is usuable and available it the normal driving range. not when i have to spin it up!
i have driven, owned, and built turbo cars (although none of them BMW's ). they are FUN X 1000000000. but as a daily with the heat...not so much fun and can be problematic, even with intercoolers, bigger radiators, & oil coolers.
there is also something so satisfying about a good hard pulling N/A motor in a good handling car. even with a fast turboed car, it just isn't the same. the turbo might be faster, but it just isn't the same warm fuzzy feeling.
The itb setup i have in mind wouldnt be costing me much at all. Im not going to be purchasing an off the shelf kit.
The car can be legal with a few strings pulled and some work.
thats the feeling that im looking for. im not looking for a huge hp monster, just a responsive, high revving and fast engine.
I got your back one way or another Jesse. I' offer you a hand one way or another but I think you got it covered with the help you have at your disposal now. Goor luck bro.
thanks man, let me know if theres anything i can do to help you with your swap.
ITB's do look cool/baller though, give you bragging rights, and sound cool at WFO throttle with a big cam, and since they came on the car i'd run 'em and will on the m30b3.5 8-)
haha thats a plus too. i kinda want something to make my car stand out at bfest this year. 8-)
being one of the few on here that actually HAVE ITB's i can honestly say the are prob not worth it hp to $$ wise. they will allow you to run a much bigger cam because the overlap wont screw with the computer, because of intake pulses. you will also have a smoother idle with the big cam and ITB's.
YOU, unfortunately live in CALIFORNIA, home of Dianne Fianstein (waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles) and the pollution nazi's. you will never get ITB's through CARB, i don't think any one offers a CARB cert. cam for the m-30, so that is out too if you want to LEGALLY street drive the car.
i didn't splash the coin for the MAF, CAMzilla, split second ARC-2a, or Dbilas ITB's. i, if i had the $$ and was doing it myself would have gone Dbilas ITB's, big cam (although not quite as big) P & P head myself, Wolf stand alone. not wasted my time with the split second stuff. you can't do anything with the timing, only the mixture, and no MAF at all is a whole lot easier!!
i live in AZ. where they only car about what is comming out your tail pipe, that you still have a cat, you have EGR lines, and your gas cap doesn't leak! that is it!! so i can get away with more.
i am going with the m-30b3.5 because i want a mountain of torque, and i want it in a range that is usuable and available it the normal driving range. not when i have to spin it up!
i have driven, owned, and built turbo cars (although none of them BMW's ). they are FUN X 1000000000. but as a daily with the heat...not so much fun and can be problematic, even with intercoolers, bigger radiators, & oil coolers.
there is also something so satisfying about a good hard pulling N/A motor in a good handling car. even with a fast turboed car, it just isn't the same. the turbo might be faster, but it just isn't the same warm fuzzy feeling.
split second is garbage! and you don't really need ITB's for any of the schrick cams (even the 304) - maybe for some of the super agressive race cams out there. I'm assuming you're no trying to run motronic of course :p
split second is garbage! and you don't really need ITB's for any of the schrick cams (even the 304) - maybe for some of the super agressive race cams out there. I'm assuming you're no trying to run motronic of course :p
oh yea!! S/S is caca!!
i was just pointing out things you need to consider when you ran as big'OL cam. intake pulses can ruin you day and make tuning a real headache. there is more involved then just the cam.
a chip wont help you out if you run a big cam, motronic, and a stock intake.
stand alone will help it out tremendously, but the intake pulses caused by the valve overlap are aggravated by the long intake runners will still make for tuning hassles, no way around it :(.
i know about making big cams work in engines they shouldn't. i OVER CAM EVERYTHING, it is just what i do, i am stupid that way, i just learn to cope with the consequences...poor idle, blip the throttle when starting out in first to raise the RPM because the lightened flywheel, then accelerate..otherwise it dies, confused engine mgmt systems, irratic idle, whole car shakes at idle like a harley...make it worse by adding solid or urathane mounts, narrowish but very FUN powerband, 3rd gear that is insane. i build cars that most people would hate to drive daily (and most people that have driven my cars agree), but they make me happy so ;-)
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Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
split second is garbage! and you don't really need ITB's for any of the schrick cams (even the 304) - maybe for some of the super agressive race cams out there. I'm assuming you're no trying to run motronic of course :p
haha theres no way the motronic system is going to be staying in there after the itb set up is ready to go on. but the engine should be going in the car without any crazy super fuh raze parts in about 2 weeks as long as i get the engine soon next week with the wiring harness and DME.
haha theres no way the motronic system is going to be staying in there after the itb set up is ready to go on. but the engine should be going in the car without any crazy super fuh raze parts in about 2 weeks as long as i get the engine soon next week with the wiring harness and DME.
thats pretty awesome, im going to look into that more. is there any other sites with more information on the company?
if you dig through it you can find out most everything you want to know of just email them. they are pretty friendly, and don't seem to be a fly-by-night co.
i signed up for their newsletter an get one about every month or so, they seem to to do quite a bit with the holden cars
that's their home site btw
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