suspension questions....

[DanGillan]

this might sound dumb, but is there a "how to" write of of how to install an aftermarket suspension? i've searched for a while and havent come up with anything. Also, while im replacing shocks and springs are there any other suggested parts to replace or add at the same time... aka... wear items or things that should be done as well as shocks and springs? thanks for any info,

[M-technik-3]

Yes ball joints and control arm bushings. I do have some M3 factory units sitting in my room. We can do those if you like. They are $68.00 for the pair new. Check to see if you controll arms are straight. and check the overall condition of the front end. IE bearings.

[DanGillan]

not only are they sraight, but the control arms were replaced in november along with all my bushings, not 100% about the ball joints, but i think they were done as well. i think someone said shock mounts or something like that? why do i need those? thanks,

[modifiede30]

I'd replace the shock mounts mainly because they're like any other wear item (bushings etc.). They are a bearing surounded by a rubber bushing, and if they aren't replaced, they'll move more than you'd want them to, ie, vibration, sloppy feeling. While you're in there, might want to consider camber plates to correct for any camber changes if you lower the car. Replace the tie rods too if not done recently, or they're showing play. In the rear, the shock mounts are notorious for failing. You might want to consider steel or aluminum mounts depending on the application you're aiming for. Check the rear bushings as well.

[DanGillan]

yea... also, one more ?... what size strut diameter do i need 45mm or 51mm? it's a 1990 325i. how do i check the size? also, with the 60/40mm drop on the fk kit, do you think thhe camber will change? do i really need camber plates? thanks guys...

[modifiede30]

If you're lowering it, I'd get camber plates up front. The rears will go towards the negative camber side, but the fronts will do the opposite, increasing positive camber which is bad.

[Brew]

also, with the 60/40mm drop on the fk kit, do you think thhe camber will change? do i really need camber plates? thanks guys...

Yes, the camber will change significantly. You don't need camber plates, but with that much of a drop you are probably going to want them so you don't go through tires like crazy.
I would recommend getting e46 m3 rear shock mounts. They're cheap and much stiffer than the e30 ones.

[schnitzer teil-jäger]

but the fronts will do the opposite, increasing positive camber which is bad.

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w

[modifiede30]

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My camber went positive when it was lowered. Seems reasonable given the geometry of the control arm. Your's did something else?

[Charlie]

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My camber went positive when it was lowered. Seems reasonable given the geometry of the control arm. Your's did something else?

Mine went visably negative in the front when it was lowered.

-Charlie

[schnitzer teil-jäger]

Quote:
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My camber went positive when it was lowered. Seems reasonable given the geometry of the control arm. Your's did something else?

with stock factory parts it is pysically impossible. and almost impossible with camber correction mounts.
w

[modifiede30]

Mine always appeared relatively positive until I added camber plates to correct for it. Wish I had my alignment figures from when I didn't have plates, but I recall them being out of spec, more positive than normal.

[DanGillan]

one last thing about camber... then back to my other questions...

can camber plates be installed later... after the shocks and springs are all done?

can anyone answer the other questions? is there a "how to"? or should i just figure it out? <--- i doubt it.

[modifiede30]

Installation isn't all that difficult. I've always found the most difficult part to be getting the tie rod and control arms out of the strut assembly. Having a lift is worth its weight in gold when doing suspension work but it can be done on the ground as well, just a little tighter. Once you remove the tie rods and camber arms, its an easy job. You can always install camber plates later, but depending on the type you're installing, you may need to eliminate the strut bearing, which means you'll have to disassemble the whole thing again (except removing the shocks). Some camber plates don't require you to disassemble the entire strut, but you'd have to take it completely out of the car to mount them. The front is the main work. The rear is very easy. To cut cost, you may want to do the rear yourself and have a shop do the front if you're not comfortable. What manuals do you have access to?

[nando]

Mine always appeared relatively positive until I added camber plates to correct for it. Wish I had my alignment figures from when I didn't have plates, but I recall them being out of spec, more positive than normal.

are your struts bent or something? I got negative camber when I lowered my car, but some of it went away when I put in the M3 offset CA bushings.