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    #16
    Originally posted by nando View Post
    fuck, that sheet metal carrier looks tough. I hate the floppy bushings on the aluminum carrier.
    For sure, I've always thought the metal console was a far better design than that skinny little aluminum rod. Having had the same shift kit in cars with both designs, my current ssk with the metal console feels a lot firmer and more solid.

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      #17
      I wonder if it would be a bad idea to replace the soft rubber rear (3rd) mount on the metal console with something made out of metal since the engine/tranny does move a bit...
      Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



      OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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        #18
        Ok, for those of you who rebuild the console. Did you end up using TWO early style "Ball Cup Lower" 25111207744 rings ?

        #4 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...85&hg=25&fg=05

        #4 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...85&hg=25&fg=05
        Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



        OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

        Comment


          #19
          how much of a PITA is a shortthrow install? Is it all done from underneath the car or is it half and half?
          97 tacoma 5 spd 4 cylinder
          2001 330ci 5 speed
          83 733i 5 speed, (FS)

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            #20
            I am going to assemble the whole thing out of the car , and then install in one shot.
            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

            Comment


              #21
              It's about half under and half above the car. It took me a while when I did it because it's a pain in the ass to work around the drive shaft.

              You'll definitely need two lower cups to space the lever up enough.
              Originally posted by Gruelius
              and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by kencopperwheat View Post
                It's about half under and half above the car. It took me a while when I did it because it's a pain in the ass to work around the drive shaft.

                You'll definitely need two lower cups to space the lever up enough.
                Got two on hand :)

                But, what's the reason behind this? Is the z3/z4 ball cup smaller in diameter compared to the e30 shifter ?
                Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                Comment


                  #23
                  TTT.

                  Anybody else with an early car console and z3/z4 shifter ?

                  From the long shifter thread , I added the names of the parts as listed on realoem.com and links to the pictures

                  Originally Posted by kencopperwheat - How to Rebuild a Sheet-Metal Console Shifter Mechanism

                  Everybody with a sheet-metal console should thank Bill for this one:

                  Okay. In terms of console bushings, there are three. In the diagram above, they are parts 1 and 7. I'd also get a couple of 2's, as they come with locking material on them (and are known to back out of the transmission). It can't hurt to get a couple 8's and 9's either, as they are easy to lose and the clips are easy to break. If you wanna go crazy (I didn't), 14 is a rubber washer that wears out over time.

                  1: 25 11 1 208 580 (2) (SUPPORTING BRACKET )
                  2: 25 11 1 205 659 (2) (FILLISTER-HEAD SCREW M10X40 )
                  7: 25 11 1 204 422 (1) (STOP BUFFER)
                  8: 25 11 1 209 078 (4) (SPACER RING 10X15X2 )
                  9: 25 11 1 220 379 (2) (CIRCLIP)
                  14: 23 41 1 466 118 (1) (RUBBER Washer) I also ordered e30m3 part (25112226585) to compare.

                  For the shift lever, you really don't need any parts. You can reuse ones off of your old shifter, but you have to grind down the metal ball and it's a pain in the ass. For as cheap as the parts are, I'd just get new ones. Here's the list for stuff to replace in the two pics above:

                  Upper Diagram: (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...85&hg=25&fg=05)
                  4: 25 11 1 207 744 (1) (BALL CUP LOWER)
                  8: 23 41 1 200 844(1) SPACER SLEEVE
                  12: 23 41 1 466 112 (1) (LOCK RING)
                  Lower Diagram: (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...05&hg=25&fg=05)
                  4: 23 41 1 466 110 (1) (BALL CUP UPPER)

                  I just order by part number from BMA. For installation, you're going to have to file down the inner rim of the upper ball cup to slide it down over the Z4 lever.


                  Q: does the upper ball cup need to be trimmed when z3 1.9 lever (25117527252) is installed ?
                  Last edited by Jean; 02-27-2008, 01:00 AM.
                  Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                  OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by Jean View Post
                    year: 1987
                    model: 325es
                    type of shifter (z3 1.9, z4 2.5, 3.0, m etc): Z3 M
                    problems with the install (had to bend anything etc): None
                    are you happy with it: Yes, it's great. I just wish it sat a little taller.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Jean View Post

                      But, what's the reason behind this? Is the z3/z4 ball cup smaller in diameter compared to the e30 shifter ?
                      You need two lower cups because the lever will hit the driveshaft. Even with two, the Z4 3.0 lever sat about 2mm from my driveshaft.

                      As far as the Z3 1.9 lever, I'm not sure if you need two or not. I only ever installed the Z4 lever.
                      Originally posted by Gruelius
                      and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        year: 1983
                        model: 323i
                        type of shifter (z3 1.9, z4 2.5, 3.0, m etc): Z3 1.9
                        problems with the install (had to bend anything etc): None
                        are you happy with it: Yes, but will probably go with the z4 2.5 shift lever. Got it in the ///M and totally satisfied with the short throws and feel.
                        Continuous For Sale Thread
                        323i s50

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                          #27
                          Should have these soon. Probably will go with a z3 1.9 for now to make things less complicated.

                          03 LOCK RING 1 09/1985 23411466112 $0.66

                          01 SUPPORTING BRACKET 2 09/1985 25111208580 $15.29
                          02 FILLISTER-HEAD SCREW M10X40 2 09/1985 25111205659 $1.77
                          03 HEX NUT WITH PLATE M8 1 09/1985 25111220483 $0.39
                          04 HEX BOLT M8X35 2 09/1985 07119913676 $0.30
                          05 BOW 1 09/1985 41121863345 $6.58
                          06 BOW 1 09/1985 25111207113 ?
                          07 STOP BUFFER 1 09/1985 25111204422 ?
                          08 SPACER RING 10X15X2 1 09/1985 25111209078 $0.44
                          08 SPACER RING 16X10,2X0,65 1 09/1985 25111220199 $0.10
                          09 CIRCLIP 1 09/1985 25111220379 $0.78
                          10 O-RING 10X2,2 2 09/1985 25111221243 $1.40
                          11 SPACER RING 16X10,2X0,65 1 09/1985 25111220199 $0.10
                          12 CIRCLIP 8,0 1 09/1985 07119932863 $0.11
                          12 CIRCLIP 8,0-ZNS 1 09/1985 07119902293 $0.61
                          13 TENSION BUSH 1 09/1985 25111203682 ?
                          14 PLASTIC WASHER 1 09/1985 25111434194 $0.56
                          15 DOWEL PIN 1 09/1985 23411466134 ?
                          16 GEARSHIFT ROD JOINT 1 09/1985 25117501309 $29.85

                          10 BALL CUP UPPER 1 23411466110 $2.51
                          08 SPACER SLEEVE 1 23411200844 $1.21


                          e30m3 plastic washer part
                          16 SPACER RING 1 25112226585 $1.79
                          Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                          OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                          Comment


                            #28
                            I replaced my shift knob and cut my lever, does that count?
                            Advanded Delphin Division
                            My e30s: 1987 325i/1994 318iT

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                              #29
                              Negative ;)
                              Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                              OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by nando View Post
                                fuck, that sheet metal carrier looks tough. I hate the floppy bushings on the aluminum carrier.
                                I was thinkin the same thing! We can't switch over either, can we? Since this mounts to the transmission, just like the aluminum one, right?
                                - Sean Hayes

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