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Hey guys, I have a perfectly straight ass end of an 88.
If you had it to do all over again, what would you do different?
Thanks!
Luke
To be honest Luke, the only thing I would change about how I did it is to have prepped the area where I mounted it better. I would have stripped all the paint and everything down to the bare metal on both the valance and the existing area of the car. When we were welding mine on, the paint/undercoating around the welds kept catching on fire, and we had to douse it out each time.
Also, I probably would have stripped all of the undercoating off of the new valance, like I did with my front valacnce. Once I get my sideskirts on, it will look kind of funny because it will be the only part of the car that's textured. But if I have the cash soon, I'm going to get one of the Eurostyle M-Tech II rear valances like nando and backtrail have.
I will tell you though, cutting that valance down to the usable size was something of a serious pain in the ass, and you have to be careful that you don't cut into an area you want to save. It's easier than you'd think to fuck it up, we came close a couple of times. If you want, I can zip up all the pics of the whole cutting/installation and email it to you.
This might be off topic but, this spring I plan on taking a good rear '88 rear valence and replacing my rusted rear valance. Both cars are late models and I want to know if it is a impossible job for my buddy the certified welder and I. Maybe someone could point me towards a bodywork related write-up.
This might be off topic but, this spring I plan on taking a good rear '88 rear valence and replacing my rusted rear valance. Both cars are late models and I want to know if it is a impossible job for my buddy the certified welder and I. Maybe someone could point me towards a bodywork related write-up.
You do know that the valance is actually part of the unibody and not just an apron that hangs down, right?
You do know that the valance is actually part of the unibody and not just an apron that hangs down, right?
Yeah I know that its part of the unibody. I know its going to involve alot of cutting to remove the old. And alot of prep and welding to insert the new.
tools to scrape undercoating off...
1. a 1 inch wide strong putty knife
2. a heat gun
3. about 2 hours of your time if you are going to do front and back.
If you are going to take the time to take off the undercoating, trust me fill the seams, you will be a lot happier.
Luke, I used a Makita angle grinder with a $5 Harbor Freight wire wheel, and completely stripped the front valance bare in about an hour. No chemicals, no scraping, just chewed it all right off.
tools to scrape undercoating off...
1. a 1 inch wide strong putty knife
2. a heat gun
3. about 2 hours of your time if you are going to do front and back.
If you are going to take the time to take off the undercoating, trust me fill the seams, you will be a lot happier.
Just to get this straight. The undercoating you are talking about is that wrinkly texture at on the front and back valances to protect against road chipping?
Just want to second check because im looking into doing this :)
BTW it is called "chip guard" in the industry. IMHO if you plan on covering it up anyways with another aftermarket valance. I don't see time as well spent grafting on the late model apron.
if you plan on covering it up anyways with another aftermarket valance. I don't see time as well spent grafting on the late model apron.
I agree, and for me, my plan wasn't to do that in the first place. But after seeing it on your car and a few others, I really want one, and I think it'll look really good with the Rieger and skirts. But it's not 100% decided yet. We'll have to see what it looks like when I get some sideskirts installed.
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