Who here bought a new A/C compressor?

[txleadfoot]

I'd get a good used compressor before forking out that kinda cash for a new one. They're not too diffucult to rebuild either.

[BrewCity11]

I'd get a good used compressor before forking out that kinda cash for a new one. They're not too diffucult to rebuild either.

x2

It's less complicated than your lawnmower motor. You could rebuild it yourself.

[Farbin Kaiber]

How much does the r134a conversion cost? I have a sticker on my pass strut housing that gives a date for when it was done, I'm just wondering if it adds to resale. But for GA the air blows like a fricken blizzard.

Ten bucks for the fittings, forty bucks for a recharge. May want to replace the compressor down the line as the r134a acts differently to seals.

[///M42 sport]

Ok theres a thread on e30tech which states that later model e30s are already converted to R134a. The guy seems pretty knowleagble. I've have r134a in my mtech w/o doing a conversion and its been fine for 2.5 yrs.

[Tree18is]

rebuild isn't a bad idea.

If you do pull one from pick and pull, blow it out, make sure there is no metal shavings in it. thats the sign of it being toast, as as well as everything else in the car. When the compressor's piston seized or shaved it self down the metal shavings went through the rest of the cars components as well ,evaporator, and condenser.
Keep in mind you will need to find out how much ac compressor oil will be needed, to much.. floods or wets the system, to little you blow you Compressor.

Usually the Evaporator fins may be smashes or closed up, possibly dirty or mold covered not allowing air flow to dissapate the ice forming on them, thus freezing the system. I could imagine that a simple run through of all the componets would be a great help.

new expansion valves do a shit load of good for the system. if there faulty the wont let the evaporator evac is pent up gas/liquid solution pressure and it will freeze up again. so they are crucial in the correct effect of the system. they also let in pressure from the compressor keeping the pressure in a constant high low flow, keeping it cold.


Basics: connections with dirt around them indicate a leak and the dirt is sticking to the R12, so there is a bad O ring there or loose bolt holding together a connection.

if you do a DIY rebuild flipping O-rings helps if you dont have a new one. the connections on condenser and evaporator love pipe dope on em, (Locktight white tube)
just check connections and always charge on the low side.
if your compressor isn't working! it may be low on charge, it needs something to compress before it realizes it's at low pressure and will start charging it up to Higher pressures.
Make sure your heater valve is working and not stuck on heater! and your knob is turned.
check for your hot after the AC switch is pressed on the compressor to see if your wiring from switch to compressor is good. its all really simple I promise, I learned it in a week
My experience comes from IRAQ working on HUMMV ac systems. they always break and every single componet gets replaced when it does.. due to the metal shavings. ohh yeah its 140 degree's there. so I did ac work every day.

Im a little rusty, so correct me if im wrong.

[Jean]

The expansion valve, dryer, o-ring kit are a no brainer, consider them ordered. Condenser I was going to pull from my 89 325i but it had bent pins so I bought another one from Alex here on the forum. The Evaporator i'll pull carefully from my 89 325i and the lines, hopefully most lines will be the same, with the exception of the two going to and from the a/c compressor.

$300 for a compressor isn't bad, compared to $800+ for an OEM unit from the dealer.... w/o A/C i'll spend more on dry cleaning during the summer lol

I am trying to understand what can be used from another e30, and if someone has input on the A/C compressors in question. I've heard Sanden units are good, but that's it.

Getting a used a/c compressor for an 84 car isn't the same as getting one for a 91, they aren't the same and much older = harder to find in good condition.

[dsobering47]

You dont need to replace the receiver/drier if you open up the system. Thats what the a/c machine is for, to vacuum out all the moisture and shit from the system to prep it for refrigerant charging.

Although I havent done an R12 to R134 conversion, I do know a lot of parts "shouldnt" match up with each other. That is, you shouldnt interchange R12 and R134 rated parts. An actual molecule of R12 is much larger in comparision to R134, so if line or fitting is only rated for R12 and you charge your a/c system with R134....theres probably a good chance that it will leak, be it quickly or slowly. ANY a/c leak is harmful to the atmosphere, as any refrigerant is really bad news. My recommendation would be to do it the correct way of purchasing new, R134-rated parts. Then going to a local A/C shop and just having them pull your system down to a vacuum for about 30 minutes, then pressure test....then go ahead and charge if everything looks good.


But thats just me.

[Farbin Kaiber]

You dont need to replace the receiver/drier if you open up the system. Thats what the a/c machine is for, to vacuum out all the moisture and shit from the system to prep it for refrigerant charging.

So when the lines are all dangly-wangly without fittings compressed to them to keep the system sealed? Moisture collects in the reciever dryer.

[Jean]

You dont need to replace the receiver/drier if you open up the system. Thats what the a/c machine is for, to vacuum out all the moisture and shit from the system to prep it for refrigerant charging.

Although I havent done an R12 to R134 conversion, I do know a lot of parts "shouldnt" match up with each other. That is, you shouldnt interchange R12 and R134 rated parts. An actual molecule of R12 is much larger in comparision to R134, so if line or fitting is only rated for R12 and you charge your a/c system with R134....theres probably a good chance that it will leak, be it quickly or slowly. ANY a/c leak is harmful to the atmosphere, as any refrigerant is really bad news. My recommendation would be to do it the correct way of purchasing new, R134-rated parts. Then going to a local A/C shop and just having them pull your system down to a vacuum for about 30 minutes, then pressure test....then go ahead and charge if everything looks good.


But thats just me.

Are you saying metal lines will leak? Do you know of a r134a specific evaporator, condenser, lines?

[Farbin Kaiber]

Are you saying metal lines will leak? Do you know of a r134a specific evaporator, condenser, lines?

Just replace all the o-rings on all the lines, and connections.
It's not gonna leak outta any hardlines, just seep past the seals. Replace 'em all and your good to go.

[emi325i]

I put the sanden compressor in, hoping it will make a huge difference. I spent another 2 weeks trying to find a shop can put new hoses in. they charged me $300 and did a shitty job. It works fine , but it wasn't worth the money.

The system pressurizes well, but it can't get rid of the heat fast enough. It was designed for R12.. It should have a bigger condenser for R134a to work well.

So, save some money, stick with an original R12 compressor (remanufactured or used). It will bolt right up and work just fine with R134a. R134a conversion is cheap.

[emi325i]

The conversion is trivial.. 2 fittings, new drier, replace old o-rings if you don't want it to leak. They make a r134a expansion valve, too, but unless you feel like digging under the dash, don't worry about it. If you have a leak at the expansion valve or evaporator, that's another 1-2 hour job.

Reseal the system, apply vacuum, add correct quantity of pag oil, add leak-detector dye, add refrigerant, get used to sweating.

[Jean]

My car does not have ANY a/c components so I have to do all of it, it's not a problem to dig under the dash. From what I can see the expansion valve is good for r12 OR r134a.

What exactly did the shop not do correctly when you mention they did a shitty job? Did they have to fabricate custom hoses or your hoses didn't work ?

Thanks

[emi325i]

The r12 expansion valve should work, from what I hear.

The ports on the compressor are in a different spot.. the oil lines are in the way, so you need longer hoses with bent fittings. They ran the condenser hoses under the radiator and up to the condenser fitting, which was bad.. the hose was exposed about 2 inches under the car.. I ended up taking it apart and re-routing it the way the original hose was: behind the headlight.. that is easier said than done, because there is a 180 degree bend in the hose. The radius of the bend is just wide enough not to block it.

[emi325i]

There is a so-called "kit" that you may be able to use.. you cut the old fittings out and put new ones in; however, they aren't crimped on, they're secure with hose-clamps.. retarded.