
Baghdad m3

Hisham Ghulan and his brother Adnan run a Baghdad auto repair shop that’s one of the anchors of the city’s car culture. The brothers do all the detail work and modifications themselves. Hisham shows off their current pride and joy, a 1987 BMW M3 tricked out with front and rear spoilers, broad blue and red stripes, and a red eagle on the door. Inside: red and yellow leather everywhere, dragons on the floorboards and a set of stereo speakers that take up most of the back seat.

Members of a drag racing club in Baghdad check their car before a race in 2005. Before Saddam Hussein's ouster, all car imports were controlled by the Iraqi leader's notorious son Uday and his cronies. A car freak, Uday was also known to confiscate on the spot any car he fancied. These days, the lawlessness in Iraq since the U.S.-led invasion in 2003 makes owning a head-turning ride a dangerous hobby.
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