What to look for during an inspection

[agealy]

I plan on checking out a 318is with 201k miles that's about 3 hours away in the next day or two. The previous two 318is' that I've looked at have been in my area so I've had them inspected by my mechanic. Because of the distance, such an inspection isn't really feasible in this case. Now, the price is low enough that I'd be fine with it having a bunch of minor stuff need replacing like suspension bits, hoses, belts etc. but I don't want to be shafted with anything major. I would assume that major engine problems should be for the most part obvious, but is there anything in particular I should watch out for?

I have a copy of Brendan Purcell's "what to look for when buying" chart which is very useful, but I don't know to easily spot some of the things listed. For example, if the car has a blown head gasket is there anything I should look for other than visible leaks from the head?

[Nick325is]

Definitly do a compression check before you buy.



-Nick

[equate975]

Rust

Feel under the door, if the window seals are leaking its gonna be rotten.

[Lazr111]

As for a blown head gasket, check the coolant level, and take a look under the oil cap. Any sort of milkyness is a pretty sure sign. Crude, I know, but it helps.
There may be other tips to the M42, but I don't know the engine too well.

[george graves]

Rocker panel rust - behind the front wheels.

[Jon325i]

If this car you are interested in has been in Cali its whole life, rust should be nearly non-existant (god bless our climate). The only exception would be if it were parked on the coast everyday - literally. Otherwise rust shouldn't be a concern.

As for what to watch for, get the car on a jack and look for any fresh oil seepage. Around the front of the engine (timing chain cover), the oil pan itself, around the bellhousing and rear of the gearbox for possible worn main seals. These last two might be hard to view if all the debris/heat shields are still in place. Also check for any signs of rust on the exhaust system - seams or weld joints are most likely to have this possible issue.

Operating temp - during the test drive, run the A/C and see what the temp needle reads. I've test driven two 318is' before and one of them saw the temp needle buried in the red after 10 minutes of driving on a mild day. The profile gasket had been cheaply patched - and the seller knew this - so when we got back from the test drive I just walked away from that prospect. I didn't want to have anything to do with the repair bill.

Suspension - when the car is parked, just push down on the front & rear bumpers. If it wobbles like a caddy or lincoln, you know you'll be needing to replace some of the underpinnings. Listen for any 'clunking' sounds too.....usually shot bushings. Unless the car has been properly maintained during its life, addressing some suspension issues is just about a given considering the mileage.

Brakes - look for grooves/hairline cracks in the rotors. Pull a front wheel and check the pads. If all looks ok and nothing seems suspect during the test drive, you should be good.

Jon

[Dozyproductions]

If you don't feel comfortable enough doing it on your own you can always find a mechanic in his area via the internet. I did that when I traveled from San Diego to LA for a car.

[TDE30]

Rocker panel rust - behind the front wheels.

Also check the drainage areas, underneath the battery, and any other area where water could get and sit for an extended period of time.

Most of all, make sure the car has proper documentation/records. Those will come in handy when you're trying to figure out what parts need to or already have been replaced.

Check the VIN labels on all body panels. Check to see if they are painted over. If you see some marked DOT, inquire.

Drive the car spiritedly and then return and give the car 15-20 minutes to rest, then look for any leaks underneath the car.

Also, clear out the tripmeter before you go driving and watch the odometer as you drive to ensure that both tripometer and odometer function properly.