Is anyone here using this:
And if so... Any long term user feedback?
And if so... Any long term user feedback?
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I've wanted to try it. If/when I get an alu radiator I will flush the block and throw some evans in there. -
never heard of it, looks interesting
hmmm1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325iComment
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Promising. But it would require a specific cooling system to see any real results from it. Even if the boiling temperature is much higher, I doubt the thermal conductivity is much higher. Sure it theoretically can efficiently pull heat off of the surface at a higher temp (without boiling and creating air pockets between coolant and surface), but I'd bet that it can't dissipate it any faster or more efficiently at the radiator.
Worth a try though I guess.
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Yea, I have to agree. The only reason that I do is that Evan's claims that you don't need a thermostat when running their coolant. That alone leaves me to believe that the coolant itself is not as efficient.Comment
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That would mean the coolant exchanges heat more efficiently... if the thermostat were not in place the coolant would not be in the radiator long enough to be cooled properly. But i think if you are having cooling system problems, you should repair them rather than try a different coolant.Originally posted by PiercedE30 View Post
didn't read about it, but can it be used in race cars as opposed to water wetter? if so that would be nice for storage as you wouldn't need to worry about it freezingLast edited by e30evolution; 12-16-2008, 10:37 AM.Comment
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I have used this on the track and it works very well. I do not actually know how well it would protect cooling system components for a road car in the long run.Comment
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I just read the entire tech section of their site. What they have to say makes sense to me.
I have always thought that using a fairly low boiling point coolant, then pressurizing the system (to compensate for said shitty coolant) is bullshit technology, straight out of 1920.
What they say about higher coolant efficiency makes all the sense in the world to me...but is it gonna make a hill of beans difference in my 20 year old street car? Do I ever push my cooling system that hard? Is it worth the cost, even with the supposed higher fuel economy?
My car does not think so.
Luke
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how does it expect to give you higher fuel economy? is the waterpump magically consuming less power? will the thermostat magically change the temperature it opens and closes at, with no benefit other than making the car run in temperatures outside when the fueling has been designed efficient?Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
Luke, if you think there is good reason for me to discover this product, i will read about it, otherwise i will just stick to using the manufacturer recommended blends of coolant.Comment
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I have always wondered about this stuff too but never tried it. I wouldlove to hear some real word expirence. not pressurizing the coolant system as much is always a pluse30sport.net
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I think the only point they have is that it is easier to run a higher AFR and consume less fuel because their shit makes detonation less of an issue; or less prevalent because they can keep temps lower. So you would have to have a custom tune just to get there. And I still wouldn't waste my money though.
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I would think you may end up cavitating the coolant at higher engine speeds without having the system pressurized. If you were to switch to and electric pump i could see some benefit, but would it be worth the effort. I would be kind of interesting to see a dyno run with mechanical water pump vs electric water pump on either the m20 or m50 enginesOriginally posted by BeirBrennerE30 View PostComment
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One of the reasons we use it is because it will not cavitate like water/glycol mix coolant. It also transfers heat more evenly, but I think the original question was regarding the long term use in a cooling system.Originally posted by e30evolution View PostComment
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my friend Roland put it in his Passat estate when he did a 2.9 rebuild on the VR-6. his G/F drives the shit out of it and they take it on road trip at least once a month. they have had no issues at all.
one of the reasons that he used it was that body style of Passat (B-2 i IIRC it is a 1992) have an air flow deficit to the radiator. being in AZ just makes it harder on everything. he also raised the compression a little during the rebuild = more heat. the car is running a GIAC, chip K & N panel filter and a muffler shop cat back and i cleaned up the ports and chambers and CC'ed them. the unfortunate thing is that is is an auto. the auto is starting to crap out now, so we are going to do a 6 speed swap soon along with a slightly lightened flywheel and a schrick VS-R intake manifold, possibly a mild cam set too, then retune it.
so in long term use (4 years now) it has run cooler than before, even though it was a larger displacement than before, no other water pump issues, and the A/C consistently blew 2 deg cooler than before. i am guessing that is from the radiator being more efficient??????Last edited by der affe; 12-16-2008, 12:56 PM.seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen
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I know the stuff works well in HP and racing applications...
What I'm wondering about are long term use effects ie. electrolysis, corrosion blah blah and so forth... M42s have some "hot spot" issues and this could be a solution.
But so far the only thing anyone seems to be able to tell me is that it turns kind of black.Comment
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