Car didn't make it...?

[straight6pwr]

I never said i was leaking coolant. I'm not leaking anything.

they started the process it started to leak coolant and smoke from the radiator cap and it started to overheat.

yup, ya did.

[blackhawkimpact]

Oh lol. My bad that was before though, when I took it to get it BAR certified. I fix that already. Referee didn't know shit about what he was doing. Almost blew my headgasket.

I just use this same thread instead of making a new thread.

[blackhawkimpact]

Judging by the pic above of the underside of fuse 3 (where it attaches to the circuit board) I'm not so sure how reliable it's going to be. Maybe it's the pic though, does it look ok? Running new stuff is a lot cheaper than replacing a warped head...


How quickly did the car cool off with the current setup? If it seemed to cool down very fast, I might suggest (based on the size of your new fan of course) running that at the first setpoint alone. Reason is, if its big enough, it can probably cool the car down in traffic quieter and with less amp draw than the noisy ancient monster out front. Does your A/C work?

If there's any doubt about that though, you know your existing setup worked so go with that.

Are you familiar with de-pinning connector terminals by any chance?

Yeah fuse still work but I doubt it'll be realiable. Already bought a fuse box just need to swap it. Currently I dont have the A/C installed but planning to.

Car cools pretty quick with the current setup. Only problem is that the fuse 3 shorts out. New fan is a 12"

Don't know much about de-pinning connectors.

[GaryE30]

You just need to be clearer in what you say. That's the only way anyone here can help you fix your issues.

[DaveSmed]

Yeah fuse still work but I doubt it'll be realiable. Already bought a fuse box just need to swap it. Currently I dont have the A/C installed but planning to.

Car cools pretty quick with the current setup. Only problem is that the fuse 3 shorts out. New fan is a 12"

Don't know much about de-pinning connectors.

After you change the fuse box, you will be a pro at depinning connectors... ;)

I might even suggest doing away with the aux fan's low speed. How about 12" for the first setting and high speed aux for the second? Should cool fine, still have tons of capacity, and eliminate that resistor that is fond of not working.

[blackhawkimpact]

Yeah that will work. Would that still be ok if I install the AC after?

[a3ternus]

WOW! The exact same thing happened to me a week ago at the passenger side electric window switch! The fuse was blown because all the wires on the bottom were melted and unified in a plastic mess...Anyway,glad you soved your problems!
N.

[blackhawkimpact]

Ok. I replaced the fuse box. It was pretty easy. Now I need to wire up the e-fan so it won't burn my fuse box again.

[DaveSmed]

Try wiring up the 12" to the Black/Green wire, and leaving the Black/Blue and Brown wires connected to the aux.

See if that gives satisfactory results, pretty easy to start with. One fan per relay and fuse too.

[blackhawkimpact]

Ok thanks.

I did that but fuse #3 still keeps blowing. I kept it without installing the e-fan and fuse #3 still blowing.

Is there a relay for the AC under the steering wheel? Where the knee bolster is at? I've notice that I hear a relay click every time the car is turned on. Also, idk if this is normal but the AC button on the hvac panel is always illuminated every the car is on, even if the dash lights are not on. The button is not pushed in but it's still illuminating. Gonna change it with a spare see what happens.

[DaveSmed]

I did that but fuse #3 still keeps blowing. I kept it without installing the e-fan and fuse #3 still blowing.

I'm a bit confused there, are you saying the fuse blows with the fans disconnected?


Also, it sounds like your A/C switch contacts are stuck on.

[blackhawkimpact]

Yea, I connected the e-fan like you said and the fuse blows. I had it disconnected for a while, just the stock aux fan connected, fuse still blows.

I hear a relay click every 10-15 secs under the steering column. I use to only hear it only when I pressed the AC button. But now even with the AC button not pushed in I still hear the relay click. I think the AC button is stuck on the on position. But I wanted to know if that is normal that the relay clicks?

[DaveSmed]

So fuse 3 was blowing without any fans connected to the Black/Green wire?

Then you have harness issues. Was the car ever in an accident?


That clicking is the evaporator temperature regulator, repairing your A/C switch will stop that. You can try unplugging the switch for now. It's supposed to cycle the A/C compressor.

[blackhawkimpact]

Only the aux fan is connected. No car doesn't have any front damage that I know of. I don't know if its been in a accident. I'll try replacing the AC switch.

[bobross]

time to find the short! Does the fues blow with the stock aux fan disconnected?

Goodluck. maybe start by following wire harness from the stock fan to the ebox.