strokin' it. M20B31 build (finished!)

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • brutus87
    replied
    WAAAAAAY off topic, but nice wheels!
    Are those euroweaves?
    I have some euroweaves on mine that I want to refinish, and these look AMAZING.
    Is that nogaro silver for the center?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jesse30
    replied
    Originally posted by E30 F34R
    DO NOT get a IE regrind, just saying because they are cheaper. Schrick all the way, double the price but worth every penny. And you are going to have to buy upgraded valve springs to get over 7k with the cam. Or just don't race it. On my brother's stroker build I am replacing the rockers with the beefy race ones to handle the higher RPMs. If you get the Schrick cam buy a IE cam adjuster gear. Only 100 bucks and helps dial in the cam =)
    whats wrong with IE's regrinds? have you had anything happen?

    Leave a comment:


  • freeride53
    replied
    That's a cool looking car you've got there, just sayin'.

    Leave a comment:


  • Butler
    replied
    Fuck yeah.

    Leave a comment:


  • Raxe
    replied
    Originally posted by E30 F34R
    Schrick 284 and buy it from Vac motorsport. I have done my research already ;) 440.00 to your door. I have over 1k in the 885 head rebuild. Cam, springs, rockers(race), Schrick springs.

    Good work, this looks clean and well done. FYI a real stroker it larger bore(bigger pistons) with shorter rods or bigger crankshaft. Since you already had the SETA it is just an improved topend. It is still a great build and motor!

    DO NOT get a IE regrind, just saying because they are cheaper. Schrick all the way, double the price but worth every penny. And you are going to have to buy upgraded valve springs to get over 7k with the cam. Or just don't race it. On my brother's stroker build I am replacing the rockers with the beefy race ones to handle the higher RPMs. If you get the Schrick cam buy a IE cam adjuster gear. Only 100 bucks and helps dial in the cam =)
    Thanks for the tips! I won't be racing it, it's my DD so convenience/reliability is a factor. I was looking at IE's offerings. My dad bought the adjustable cam gear for his cabrio but hasn't installed it yet, so I'll have a chance to see how it works before pulling the trigger myself.

    Leave a comment:


  • F34R
    replied
    Originally posted by Raxe
    I will actually, I'm going to pull the whole thing apart again in a few weeks and change the cam because it's starting to wear. Didn't know until we started doing the conversion but surprises are part of the fun :P

    I'm going to start researching it soon, but I keep hearing Schrick 272.



    Didn't know that, thanks!
    Schrick 284 and buy it from Vac motorsport. I have done my research already ;) 440.00 to your door. I have over 1k in the 885 head rebuild. Cam, springs, rockers(race), Schrick springs.

    Good work, this looks clean and well done. FYI a real stroker it larger bore(bigger pistons) with shorter rods or bigger crankshaft. Since you already had the SETA it is just an improved topend. It is still a great build and motor!

    DO NOT get a IE regrind, just saying because they are cheaper. Schrick all the way, double the price but worth every penny. And you are going to have to buy upgraded valve springs to get over 7k with the cam. Or just don't race it. On my brother's stroker build I am replacing the rockers with the beefy race ones to handle the higher RPMs. If you get the Schrick cam buy a IE cam adjuster gear. Only 100 bucks and helps dial in the cam =)

    Leave a comment:


  • gverelli
    replied
    Originally posted by Holland
    R3vlimited's latest and CLEANEST 2.7i.

    x1000

    Leave a comment:


  • Holland
    replied
    R3vlimited's latest and CLEANEST 2.7i.

    Leave a comment:


  • HarryPotter
    replied
    This is technically only possible with the 88 seta. Doing so with a regular eta would give you very low compression, the car would be a slug. Good for turbo thou!!

    Nice job dude!

    Leave a comment:


  • Raxe
    replied
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop
    Not gonna cam it while you're at it? ;)
    I will actually, I'm going to pull the whole thing apart again in a few weeks and change the cam because it's starting to wear. Didn't know until we started doing the conversion but surprises are part of the fun :P

    I'm going to start researching it soon, but I keep hearing Schrick 272.

    Originally posted by Rhys
    The seta engine has reliefs cut in the top of the pistons for the valves. The 'regular e' bottom has flat top pistons.
    Didn't know that, thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • Rhys
    replied
    Originally posted by Raxe
    Yup straight half-n-half. Used the ECU and intake from the 325i as well, it's pretty much plug and play. It's an 88 seta bottom end though, I'm not sure how much of a difference a regular e bottom would be.
    The seta engine has reliefs cut in the top of the pistons for the valves. The 'regular e' bottom has flat top pistons.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    Not gonna cam it while you're at it? ;)

    Leave a comment:


  • Raxe
    replied
    Yup straight half-n-half. Used the ECU and intake from the 325i as well, it's pretty much plug and play. It's an 88 seta bottom end though, I'm not sure how much of a difference a regular e bottom would be.

    Leave a comment:


  • ubernasty
    replied
    You made that look entirely too easy. Looked into that myself but got mixed up in all the different variants with eta rods/ i pistons/ m50 crank etc. etc. You just went straight eta bottom/ i head tho right?

    edit: meant seta rods... then again, i gave up trying to make sense of it all.

    someone needs to do a formal "how to do this shit right" sticky.... w/o all the bs mechanic wanna-be's and 15 yr olds inputs.... my 2c

    Leave a comment:


  • DTM190
    replied
    No fucking around, just into it. Love it. Good job Raxe

    Leave a comment:

Working...