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One question (someone correct me if wrong) single vanos M50 EMS runs a "Cam sensor", giving the COPs timing. If your only firing one hole, it makes sense might be lacking important component.
COPs are also a 'hotter spark' so do a plug check after a few thousand miles and see if they're running hot (Broken porcelin) - listen for detonation too.
And mount those COPs (Coils), I forget if the secondary winding negative comes from them being bolted up or not. (Primary power and trigger is from the 3 wire plug to the coil)
Originally posted by ABIT
DzusFast, of course after painting, we made some pics and later we drank some beer, mmm
actually all ignition system is different on m50 than m20, but i stick with stock plugs
word... today's picture :mrgreen:
all seems ok, only it won't start
looks like fuel is coming, there is spark, but it does not start, just fires only 6th cylinder, and later 5th came in too :mrgreen: don't no where to start finding problem, it was late and I gave up, will try later :)
DzusFast, of course after painting, we made some pics and later we drank some beer, mmm :D
..and we all know that this CAI almost makes no difference, but it makes car look mad, because racecar
and hey hey, What spark plugs to use in m20b28 with m50 management? same Ngk's as on stock m20b25?
Yes, same coil, same distributor cap same cylinder head right? and M50 management's dwell angle is approximately same. I would feel confident running the plug BMW accepts with that stock head.
While I'm on the couch eating pizza, abit's building his car! (I must be getting old.)
Love the thread, simply awsome pics/gifs and I can hear the European accent in the writing....WAAAAY TOOOO COOL!!! (I can imagine:"After paint car we drive to local ghetto for snapshot and beer, yes?") ...Definitely nice work abit, keep it up dude!
Diggin' the "sacrificial" removal of headlamp for cold air abduction...ahhhh, the possibility of a few more HP's. Must be in our blood.
Seems like your crankshaft is from double vanos m52b28, and it have bigger counterweights. Yes you can remove trigger wheel and if possible grind some material from block, but I seen that others remove material from crank counterwights and balance it after all.
My crankshaft is from single vanos m52b28 so without trigger wheel and with smaller counterwights so it fits straight in.
thanks:)
Yup you were exactly right. I wound up machining the block and no it's spins perfect with enough room for anything to stretch a little.
Just a FYI for future builds or people following yours, valve seals should be installed after the valves are in or you chance cutting/damaging the seal from the keeper grooves when inserting the valves.
There should be valve stem condoms in the gasket set that you slip over the valve stem and then slide the seal over it.
Did your crank have the trigger wheel on it and if so did you have to remove it?? Any issues with the counterweights hitting the block? I just installed the crank and noticed it was hitting the block. Ive heard some people have run into this problem and some do not.
Car looks like its coming along great!
Seems like your crankshaft is from double vanos m52b28, and it have bigger counterweights. Yes you can remove trigger wheel and if possible grind some material from block, but I seen that others remove material from crank counterwights and balance it after all.
My crankshaft is from single vanos m52b28 so without trigger wheel and with smaller counterwights so it fits straight in.
Did your crank have the trigger wheel on it and if so did you have to remove it?? Any issues with the counterweights hitting the block? I just installed the crank and noticed it was hitting the block. Ive heard some people have run into this problem and some do not.
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