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    #16
    the best way to remove tint is with a clothes steamer, like the kind they use at retail stores, but you can buy cheap household ones. it's super easy, heats up the glue, and you pull it off sheet by sheet.

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      #17
      Thanks. Yea I saw that on YouTube and will be using that method.

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        #18
        Saturday--
        timing belt, water pump, VC gasket installed.
        Finished the shadowlining.
        Removed tint (what a bitch).
        Replaced RSMs--IE's
        Installed Euro plate and mtech plate holder

        Today
        Ordered tie rods (purchased Blunttech)
        Ordered M3 offset control arm bushings (purchased Blunttech)

        Tomorrow
        Ordering sway bar links (probably from Blunttech)
        Falken 912s should be in and installed

        This week
        Replace tie rods
        Replace CA bushings
        Put crack free dash in

        The tech said I needed a tie rod on the passenger side as the wheel/tire would wobble side to side when it was up on the lift.

        I want to try and concur this myself. Any tips? Do I need to rent a tie rod puller? I've never done something like this. He said the car needs an alignment bad so Im going to replace these things prior to alignment. He said control arms are good.

        So after talking with the tech, he said I "really" didn't want to go with bilistien sports and hr race. He said it wouldn't align right. Any thoughts? Are the race springs s direct swap like the hr sports?


        Thanks!
        Last edited by Mastrcruse; 08-20-2012, 05:47 PM.

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          #19
          Today-- replaced sway bar end links.
          Tomorrow/Friday-- install tie rods and CA bushings
          Weekend-- install dash

          Any tips on installing tie rods or CA bushings? I don't want to remove the CA to do the bushings...I can replace them while the CA is still on the car right? I see many videos that show the person taking the CA off.

          RSM


          Rear Sway Bar Links


          Front Sway bar links


          ---Had a hard time with one of them. Trying to tighten the nut, the links top of joint would continue to rotate and wouldn't allow tightening. I removed again, tried to clean up the threads, and retightened and I believe I got it tightened down well.
          Last edited by Mastrcruse; 08-23-2012, 12:48 PM.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Mastrcruse View Post
            Today-- replaced sway bar end links.
            Tomorrow/Friday-- install tie rods and CA bushings
            Weekend-- install dash

            Any tips on installing tie rods or CA bushings? I don't want to remove the CA to do the bushings...I can replace them while the CA is still on the car right? I see many videos that show the person taking the CA off.
            Tie rods are pretty easy to replace. Just one nut on the strut housing. Loosen the other end and remove by turning. Make sure you measure the length of your original tie rods and match it when installing new ones.

            CAB can be taken off the car without remove the arm.

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              #21
              Originally posted by amok View Post
              Tie rods are pretty easy to replace. Just one nut on the strut housing. Loosen the other end and remove by turning. Make sure you measure the length of your original tie rods and match it when installing new ones.

              CAB can be taken off the car without remove the arm.
              Thanks for the help!

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                #22
                Got the tie rods done today. The lock plate was a bitch. Now on to the ca bushings. I might have someone do these.

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                  #23
                  Offset CA bushings on.

                  To date:
                  New Radiator
                  Timiing belt
                  water pump
                  Tie Rods
                  Sway Bar links
                  CA bushings
                  Full interior swap (much nicer than the original)
                  New"er" hood
                  RSM's
                  Small interior attachments
                  De-tint
                  195/65-14 Falken 912's




                  Today put on....
                  IS spoiler
                  Euro Grills
                  Smilies

                  The front valance really needs to be painted...its the worst part on the car. I was given a price of $300 for smoothing and repainting of the valance. After brakes (next week) I might look into doing this. I think in November I will be getting H&R race and Bilistien Sports. I'm thinking of getting the car where I want it and then completing the 5 speed swap. Its procrastination at its best haha.


                  By mastrcruse at 2012-09-04
                  Last edited by Mastrcruse; 09-04-2012, 07:53 PM.

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                    #24
                    Looking good. How long did it take to do your timing belt/WP?
                    sigpic 1987 325is

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                      #25
                      Thats one thing I didn't trust myself to do. I had the BMW tech do it.

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                        #26
                        Without Plate Filler

                        By mastrcruse at 2012-09-07

                        With Plate filler

                        By mastrcruse at 2012-09-07

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                          #27
                          Black accent pieces on red cars always look nice. As with everything moderation is key lol looks awesome bud
                          SO MUCH MORE TO DO!!
                          IG: ohthejosh

                          LEGIT CHECK ME BRUH
                          BUYER FEEDBACK THREAD

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                            #28
                            Just got done switching the dash out. Started at 11a and now it's 7:30p. Was a bitch especially cause the PO has an alarm that was tied to the abs module....but now, it mysteriously works! All the lights are brighter for some reason too. Pics coming soon after I drown myself in alcohol. Kept the cluster to replace odo gears and light bulbs.

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                              #29
                              So bit of an update...I'll get pics soon.

                              I replaced all rotors, pads, and sensors from Blunntech. Waiting on a new cluster from eBay. Going to use my rebuilt odo in my original and piece a fully functional unit together.

                              Yesterday after my brakes, I was driving and the car came to idle and shuddered, lights turned off, and shut off. Gave it alittle while, it started up...then studdered and shut down. Jumped it and went about a mile, lights turned off and shut down. Now the battery is dead.

                              I believe it's the alternator. The battery is new. Doesn't seem like a gas problem as it starts right up and runs great when its got power. Pulling the alternator out tomorrow and having autozone test it.

                              Any other ideas about what might be going on? I'm thinking of goi with the duralast alternator because its Has a lifetime warranty...anything reason why I shouldn't go for the duralast?

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