You ever see a black four door Dodge Dakota at Mesa? Oakley sticker on the back?
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A Non-Intersting College Budget '91 Calypso Coupe
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Got my St1g official wood shift knob on today

Also got some used spark plugs for now to get rid of the old blue ones. Also found a BMW plastic rail for the plugs as well.
Old
"New"
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Hey Mr St1glet made me a wood shift knob so he's endorsing all of this.
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I did a thing today.
17x8 BBS RC090 205/40/16



The struggle living in the dorms.

Time to get adapters to see if I like them before I go about refinishing. Got a couple more things comi g this upcoming week.Leave a comment:
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You can pull that harmonic balancer off btw. It doesn't add any vibrations and only makes the drive shaft a tiny bit louder
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I haven't posted here in a while. I have been working a lot and making a small stock pile of parts. The car has been living the life of a daily driver for me, so it has not seen love in quite a while. But today I finally gave her some love
Started off with a valve cover gasket and some wire wheel action on the cover itself. Crazy what 45 minutes with a wire wheel can do to 25 years of baked on cosmoline.


Once I finished there I finally committed to getting the short shift kit in along with a new Guibo and CSB.
Getting this crappy exhaust off by yourself is terrible.


Pain in the ass exhaust

Old vs New

Old

New

Installing

I hate having to shave something I paid $120 for. I didn't end up shaving enough because if you push the shifter to the left only in second gear you can hear the DSSR rub the harmonic balancer.

Finished up the install



I got too excited to try it out that I didn't take any pictures. I'll get a put together interior picture, and 1-2nd distance picture tomorrow. More to come in the week, especially some good change.Leave a comment:
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Hell Yeah! I've got it to a good point now, but I want to replace the radiator sooner than later because all the fins got mowed over by the fan and just another new thing to keep the car running even better. Thanks for the link!
Zack Eberl-CoeLeave a comment:
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Here ya go:
Nice and fast way to bleed coolant in M20
After changing the timing belt and spending frustrating hours trying to fully bleed the cooling system by having the front on ramps, getting up to temp, using the bleed screw, etc... I would like to offer the following procedure I followed.
I am sure this has been done before but I haven't seen this exact method it after searching. I have read where people "blow" on the reservoir opening but that seemed a bit crude and inefficient.
Basically, it is "back-bleeding" the cooling system, I had to do this on Triumph car clutch, the only way to force the brake fluid past a high section of tubing.
Car - 1988 325is
The only new tool I needed was a cheap $6.00 plastic "oil pump" that can screw onto the top of a gallon jug. Found it at the local auto parts store.
Important - I drilled a small 5/64" hole in the top section the outer portion of the new thermostat. Right through the embossed arrow pointing upwards. This allows a small amount of coolant to bypass the thermostat when cold.
I worked with a cold car, parked flat(no ramps) that is not running and a coolant reservoir that is nearly empty. The night before I had tried to bleed the car by the "ramp" method, it worked ok but the temp did rise when idling. I ran out of time to keep working on it. Overall the system was probably 2/3 full but I think this procedure would work as well on a completely drained system.
Remove the coolant reservoir cap and put the heat control on full.
Install the pump in the top of the coolant jug and attach the pump's tubing to the small nipple on the very top left(driver) side of the radiator, directly above the large coolant hose. This nipple normally feeds into the coolant reservoir, you need to remove the small hose clamp and hose.
Loosen the bleed screw on the thermostat housing.
Pump the coolant into the radiator until the it flows out of the bleed screw on the housing.
Close the bleed screw.
Keep pumping the coolant until the coolant reservoir starts to fill up. I actually heard gurgling sounds as air bubbles worked out.
Keep pumping until the reservoir is full.
Remove the pump's tubing from the radiator nipple. Have the original hose ready to slip on because it will spurt coolant out of the radiator.
I put the reservoir cap back on and went for a drive with perfect results. It ran cool and consistent.
I have found this method to be extremely fast, clean, and safe compared to what I had tried before.
Let me know if you have any questions or feedback!!!
Last edited by tim88325is; 05-09-2010 at 04:58 PM..Leave a comment:
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I just lost the game. My paint is really bad, and my m20 leaks buckets of oil.d
Zack, your car is great. A word of advice, took my brother about 2 finicky hours to get his new 318i to bleed after changing the radiator. Getting all the air out can be a massive pain in the ass. But you can do it.
Let me add my two cents as well regarding bleeding the cooling system.... Drill a hole on the thermostat (through the arrow imprinted on thermostat lip). Install it. Disconnect the overflow tube going into the top of the radiator and back bleed the system that way. It is super easy. Just get a fluid pump from Advanced Auto or Pep Boys etc and put one end in the radiator fluid bottle and the other end attached to the radiator. Trust me... I struggled for over a week trying to bleed the system on my last car and went through lots of cursing before I tried this method. Actually let me find the write up and put it below. It works like a charm.Leave a comment:
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I just lost the game. My paint is really bad, and my m20 leaks buckets of oil.d
Zack, your car is great. A word of advice, took my brother about 2 finicky hours to get his new 318i to bleed after changing the radiator. Getting all the air out can be a massive pain in the ass. But you can do it.Leave a comment:

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